08LGT80 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 hi everyone, i was wondering when do people change their pads? when you have 3mm of pad left, 1mm, or when it's metal to metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 when you step on the brakes and they squeal:lol: I changed the fronts w/ 3mm left, did it cause dealership inspected them and said they are almost gone... My bro's was when 1 pad was metal to metal And my parents fronts only (drums rear), 4mm left on the fronts There is an inspection hole through the caliper, and you can use that to gauge. When its worn down to the dummy squeal tab (most pads should have, bros didnt) then its time to change soon if you go down metal to metal, then you have to get the rotor resurfaced and stuff...blah more money to waste, also depends how much money you have to spend on pads and what pads your getting. I got stoptech for mine cause they are cheap priced pads and my discount makes it even better:) 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08LGT80 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 how do you like your stoptechs? i have the hawk hps pads but i don't notice any improvement over the stock pads. what are everyone's opinions on best pads for the buck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Impressions is always different from person to person, and how you drive. I drive spiritedly... I only did the fronts since the back were still good I noticed a firmer pedal with the stoptechs I did not try anything else, so I went from stock to stoptechs. I like them but they do dust almost 2x more then stock pads, also I have read stoptechs do leave pad material on the rotors, and I am noticing steering wheel vibrations under cold medium pressure breaking after 5 months of running them (hard braking and the vibration goes away mainly slowing down from fwy speeds to off ramp). Time to do another bed in, they do not squeal and I used lithium grease For the price ~$100 for front and rear, they are good but like I said the downside is the dusting, and potential crap on the rotors Some did not notice a difference w/ stoptechs some do... same thing with hps, some say there is a difference, some say worse then stock... I have friends who say HPS are awesome and much better then their stock pads - STI, BMW... 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 how do you like your stoptechs? i have the hawk hps pads but i don't notice any improvement over the stock pads. what are everyone's opinions on best pads for the buck? How were the HPS bedded in. There is a very specific bed in process that makes them work much better. 60mph to 5mph 7x and then allow them to cool for 20-30min. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08LGT80 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 i never knew that they were supposed to be bedded in :confused: i dunno where i would go 60mph to 5mph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 i never knew that they were supposed to be bedded in :confused: i dunno where i would go 60mph to 5mph very late at night 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWSPECB Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I-5 @ 3 p.m. on Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maniaxzero Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 i never knew that they were supposed to be bedded in :confused: i dunno where i would go 60mph to 5mph when the popo's are sleeping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08LGT80 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 I-5 @ 3 p.m. on Friday. hahahahaa:lol::lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08LGT80 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 how hard should i slam on the brakes? or should i just apply firm pressure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWSPECB Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Don't lock em up but put firm and constant pressure all the way till ~5mph then speed up and do it again. 7 times I guess according to Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Don't lock em up but put firm and constant pressure all the way till ~5mph then speed up and do it again. 7 times I guess according to Mike. 5-7 times or on new pads until you see/smell some brake smoke The cooldown part is just as critical. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08LGT80 Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 ok thanks. what happens if u don't bed them in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blongo804 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 And how should cool-down take place? Stopped or just highway drive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGT For ME Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 do you recommend bedding stoptech pads as well? I didnt bed mine when I put them on a month or so ago and wonder if bedding them would improve their performance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 And how should cool-down take place? Stopped or just highway drive? drive without stopping, it is very important you do not stop when doing the bed in one of StopTech's techs says he cruises on the fwy for 5 miles w/out using the brakes - enjoying the nice little drive:) cool down should never use the brakes do you recommend bedding stoptech pads as well? I didnt bed mine when I put them on a month or so ago and wonder if bedding them would improve their performance? every brake pad should be bed in bed in transfers pad material to the rotor for better pad/rotor adherence. if you do not do it, the transfer layer may never happen or will take a long time to happen. this speeds up the process pretty much immediately you can do a bed in any time, but its best to do them on new pads since they are rougher so they can cut into the rotor more 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 And how should cool-down take place? Stopped or just highway drive? We drive slowly the last few blocks before returning to the shop. We then allow the car to sit parked for 20 min without driving. For us the important part is not allowing the custy to drive away on them right away, especially with the traffic in NJ. It would kill the pads. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 drive without stopping, it is very important you do not stop when doing the bed in one of StopTech's techs says he cruises on the fwy for 5 miles w/out using the brakes - enjoying the nice little drive:) cool down should never use the brakes every brake pad should be bed in bed in transfers pad material to the rotor for better pad/rotor adherence. if you do not do it, the transfer layer may never happen or will take a long time to happen. this speeds up the process pretty much immediately you can do a bed in any time, but its best to do them on new pads since they are rougher so they can cut into the rotor more Agreed on the bedding all pads and at any time. On the driving without using the brakes, that is not always possible in certain parts of the country. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I'm chiming in on the original question...when to change pads. Street pads are incredibly cheap overall when you realize how critical they are and how long they last in general. Why would you try and push them to the last bit of material? It just doesn't make sense. I'd just be conservative and don't let them get less than 1/8", 3 to 4mm. For a little more tech info on bedding in see: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/brake-pad-bed-in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 I'm chiming in on the original question...when to change pads. Street pads are incredibly cheap overall when you realize how critical they are and how long they last in general. Why would you try and push them to the last bit of material? It just doesn't make sense. I'd just be conservative and don't let them get less than 1/8", 3 to 4mm. For a little more tech info on bedding in see: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/brake-pad-bed-in Agree, they are cheap insurance so why not replace em slightly early rather than slightly late... -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RabidWombat Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 For cooling, the most important thing is to not stop and sit with very hot brakes. Stopping will result in uneven material transfer, where the brake pad is touching the rotor. As long as you can keep rolling it should be fine. For example, driving slowly back home or to the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWSPECB Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Unless you use my method in the I-5 traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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