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Cruise control help 1999 Outback


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The light comes on the button on the dash by the rear window defog and when I use the steering wheel controls, I hear it click like it is trying to work. I have no check engine lights on.

 

I have read all kinds of stuff on this issue but no one seems to report fixed.

 

I did just clean the control switch with electric cleaner as it seemed to have a lot of goo and dust but to no avail.

 

I have seen that the throttle body cable slop can cause issues and I took out some slack but did not get aggressive there. I will do some more research on setting them proper as it has been reported to be an issue with cruise.

 

I've read that sometimes there are issues with vacuum lines but some say there aren't any on the 99's.

 

No check engine lights to indicate bad sensors.

 

I'm trying to work out all the bugs in this sweet ride. Other than the cruise now, I am having issue with the vent controls on heater/ac selection. It sticks and doesn't go from one vent setting to the other easily. I did eventually get it to go from front vent to defrost by hitting the defrost button a bunch of times when I was desperate for defrost. I see people cleaning the buttons and am wondering about using electric cleaner?

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As I play around and research, I am finding that when I turn the dash cruise button on and then set cruise I get the "click" and sometimes feel a brief surge as if it is trying to engage but does not. Once I have toggled the "set" and it does not engage I can tap the brake and I hear the switch that would otherwise turn the "cruise" off. To me this seems like the controls are working, the car just isn't engaging the cruise.

 

Again, this is an automatic transmission. Horn honks. Brake has the blue plastic piece that seems to properly control the brake switch and all the brake lights work fine. I see no issues with vacuum lines but haven't found a good diagram of what my car has in the way of vacuum lines associated with the cruise control.

 

I did clean the control toggle on the steering column with electrical cleaner yesterday and this morning when the car was pretty cold, bordering on below freezing it was now sticky making me think I might need some kind of electrical lube now. Any suggestions on that?

 

I know other people have had the same problems because I have read many stories and it always seems the ones about automatic transmission seem unsolved.

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Does your system have a cable from the throttle body going to a cruise control unit mounted up by the cowl that then has a vacuum line? If so I would check that cable, but more than that I would, engine off, use a hand vacuum pump to see if the cruise control unit will maintain a vacuum.
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Does your system have a cable from the throttle body going to a cruise control unit mounted up by the cowl that then has a vacuum line? If so I would check that cable, but more than that I would, engine off, use a hand vacuum pump to see if the cruise control unit will maintain a vacuum.

 

It does, all the vacuum lines look great but the cable has the rubber cover slipping off right at the throttle body. I could go to AutoZone and borrow a vacuum tester and maybe they can show me how to hook it up to test the cruise. I wonder if I have too much slack in the cable?

 

I would upload some photos but it isn't letting me at the moment.

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MADE A HUGE DISCOVERY, seems the dealership I purchased my car from unplugged the green connector under the steering wheel that is to the "check engine" light, the one that flashes. A "check engine" light that did not flash came on right as I drove it off the lot telling me the knock sensor was bad, I replaced that and no more steady check engine light. Apparently the green connector is to a different diagnostic system and it shows a mess.

 

I stopped in to AutoZone this morning to see if there was a hidden code with no "check engine" light and there wasn't. But after finding the green connector for the OTHER check engine system light it threw 10 codes, most of which would cause the cruise to not work.

 

Codes are as follows

P 0130 x 2 bank 1, oxygen sensor

P 0136 Bad Oxygen Sensor

P 0500 x 2 Circuit Malfunction Speed sensor

P 1100 Starter Switch Circuit Malfunction

P 1101 Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input

P 1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range

P 1121 Neutral Position Switch Circuit

P 1540 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction

 

I assume if I replace these in a certain order, some of these codes will be repaired by the part replacement. I have adjusted the acceleration cable and cruise cable at the throttle body but only to take out some slack nothing that changed idle or performance at all.

 

I think it is safe to say fixing these will fix my cruise control.

 

Anyone have an opinion of what order to fix/replace parts to fix only that which is broke?

 

I'm kind of ticked off and kind of relieved at the same time. Now I can fix things and that is nice but kind of ticked at the dealer who clearly disconnected the diagnostics to sell the car. I know the little old lady who owned it and traded it in didn't disconnect it. Anyways, I can get her fixed now and she still runs like a champ.

Edited by Reloadit
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There are green connectors by the steering column underneath and in the passenger kick panel. These are normally not connected. When you connect them and key in run but not running the computer goes into a special test mode where it turns lots of things off and on to help you trace problems. They are not for connection during normal use.

 

I'm not sure what would happen if you ran the engine with those connected, but a bunch of codes could be one outcome.

 

I like the idea that there may be a problem with the cable to the cruise. The plastic outer part needs to be a steady length. If it squishes shorter when tension is on the steel inner part that can certainly cause a problem.

 

The Vehicle Speed Sensor would be most likely to be a problem for cruise, but typically on an auto if VSS1 or VSS2 is out it would either read funny on the dash or have trouble shifting. I forget which is which, but one VSS is for the speedo, and the other is for the trans computer.

 

Also, if your O2s and TPS were bad it wouldn't drive like a champ, although it might run alright you would likely be down on power and/or getting terrible mileage.

Edited by doublechaz
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There are green connectors by the steering column underneath and in the passenger kick panel. These are normally not connected. When you connect them and key in run but not running the computer goes into a special test mode where it turns lots of things off and on to help you trace problems. They are not for connection during normal use.

 

I'm not sure what would happen if you ran the engine with those connected, but a bunch of codes could be one outcome.

 

I like the idea that there may be a problem with the cable to the cruise. The plastic outer part needs to be a steady length. If it squishes shorter when tension is on the steel inner part that can certainly cause a problem.

 

The Vehicle Speed Sensor would be most likely to be a problem for cruise, but typically on an auto if VSS1 or VSS2 is out it would either read funny on the dash or have trouble shifting. I forget which is which, but one VSS is for the speedo, and the other is for the trans computer.

 

Also, if your O2s and TPS were bad it wouldn't drive like a champ, although it might run alright you would likely be down on power and/or getting terrible mileage.

 

OK, that's good to know. I will look into more on the green connectors and using them to diagnose things. I have been driving it to home and back to work. I think I have a picture of the cable uploaded. It seems to have the spiral spring like wire housing for the cable that is under the plastic sheath. I'm not sure if the plastic slipping will affect the cable behavior but will look deep into that.

 

Thanks.

959637926_IMG_9210(1).jpg.790dd6d207b3ab2c733454788c9b5614.jpg

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https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts-list/1999-subaru-outback/body_electronics/cruise_control_equipment.html?Filter=(2=EJ25D;3=F4WD;4=AT)

 

It appears this is the total cruise control unit in my car. Seems to be no transmission selector switch. I have been googling for 7 hours and read a dozen threads and it seems like the folks that have had my issue never resolved them on the threads.

 

I could pull the cruise control unit off my 97, the unit behind the glove box and trade it out and see. They look like the same actuators too.

 

After researching more on the green connectors, they were a steady flash that is supposed to mean nothing is detected by that diagnostic test.

 

I still wonder if any of the codes it threw were legit because some of the sensors it threw are believed to stop cruise from working. The threads I have been reading haven't dove much into replacing speed sensors and such.

 

I'm still working on it.

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Speed sensor replacement isn't real hard, but I think you would have other symptoms if they were actually bad. I think the codes came from actually starting the engine with the greens connected. Our generation of ECUs are pretty good about making codes show when needed and also in not making false codes. So if you normally aren't getting codes then there are probably no legit codes.

 

The one exception to that is O2 sensors can be just a little not good before they are bad. Bad would throw a code. Not as good as you would hope they would be will usually not throw a code, but may be detected by slightly reduced power, slightly worse idle smoothness, or reduced gas mileage. Most people wouldn't even notice the first two and it seems most people don't calculate their mileage at every fill up so they wouldn't notice that either.

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Speed sensor replacement isn't real hard, but I think you would have other symptoms if they were actually bad. I think the codes came from actually starting the engine with the greens connected. Our generation of ECUs are pretty good about making codes show when needed and also in not making false codes. So if you normally aren't getting codes then there are probably no legit codes.

 

The one exception to that is O2 sensors can be just a little not good before they are bad. Bad would throw a code. Not as good as you would hope they would be will usually not throw a code, but may be detected by slightly reduced power, slightly worse idle smoothness, or reduced gas mileage. Most people wouldn't even notice the first two and it seems most people don't calculate their mileage at every fill up so they wouldn't notice that either.

 

I calculate my millage carefully. Always have. Once I disconnected the green connectors, the dash is free of lights again.

 

I'm trying to determine what parts I want to trade from my 97 to my 99, the actuator and cable first or the control unit under the dash. I do hear a mild "tick tick tick" sound when I first start to drive the car at low speeds that makes me think of either a speed or tack cable. I'm telling myself it is not the engine or rods. I see no issue with the gauges but the sound I hear is there and I don't hear it all the time, usually when cold.

 

I'm going to drive my 97 with a passenger and have them listen around the glove box when working the cruise to see if the control unit makes any sounds when engaging or disengaging the cruise and then compare the 99.

 

The head gaskets have been replaced already by the previous owner, it still does not drip to the ground but I do occasionally smell burning oil so I know there are some small leaks somewhere.

 

I suspect that it is the actuator or the control unit. I think both those can go out without throwing codes. Vacuum lines look pristine. Some of the newer subarus will lose cruise control if you drive with the gas cap off but that apparently throws codes.

 

I'm going to figure it out one way or the other. :)

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Our speedo and tach are electric, so no calbes there. Hard say what the noise could be. Perhaps CV or wheel bearing if it has to do with the car movement rather than engine speed.

 

I would try the part under the hood first.

 

As to leaks, unfortunately pretty much everything that can leak on our car will do it in a way that it gets on the exhaust and smells. It's common for the steering pump to leak. That goes back on top of the 1-3 bank, down the back and onto the exhaust. If the high pressure hose for steering leaks it goes on the exhaust. If the front main or cam seals leak it goes down the front of the head and onto the exhaust or back along the pan and onto the exhaust. You get it...

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Our speedo and tach are electric, so no calbes there. Hard say what the noise could be. Perhaps CV or wheel bearing if it has to do with the car movement rather than engine speed.

 

I would try the part under the hood first.

 

As to leaks, unfortunately pretty much everything that can leak on our car will do it in a way that it gets on the exhaust and smells. It's common for the steering pump to leak. That goes back on top of the 1-3 bank, down the back and onto the exhaust. If the high pressure hose for steering leaks it goes on the exhaust. If the front main or cam seals leak it goes down the front of the head and onto the exhaust or back along the pan and onto the exhaust. You get it...

 

I was kind of thinking the actuator and cable would be the easiest and would start there. Changing the actuator and the control unit won't cost me any money upfront so why not, just a little of my time. Funny how rare the two parts are online. If I get a fix, I guess I will hit the junk yards and try to find one to remove myself. This suggests these parts don't go out much if no one is making aftermarket replacements.

 

Thanks for all your help doublechaz.

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Well it is not the actuator and cable under the hood. They are the exact same part number and I put the 97 on the 99 and no go so put them back to their respected vehicles and test drove the 97 and it's still cruising under CC so will try to find the control unit under the glove box next.
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Problem SOLVED. Fellas, I'm the leading, not ONE of the leading but THE leading expert on natural healing (as in the human body healing itself). There just isn't any calling for my expertise in that area anymore because it is now believed that the body cannot self-heal or repair so no one asks me for my help, they automatically turn to natural or pharmaceutical medicine which does nothing to help the body heal itself so I do not get be utilized like I rely on you guys here for help with mechanical issues.

 

With that being said, you guys are the experts and my lack of expertise/smarts is sometimes embarrassing. When you guys told me to check the vacuum lines, you probably meant ALL of them, not just the ones easy to see and grab and test.

 

I was preparing to remove the cruise control pump under the hood, first by taking off the hard to see vacuum line and it was cracked and just fell off. $1.27 fix. I did not grab that end from the beginning because all the other easy to reach ends were immaculate and tight with no movement and I assumed the hard to see end would be the same condition. I was wrong. I feel I wasted a lot of you folks' time.

 

You have walked me through a half a dozen repairs on this sight and I hope you will all forgive me for not being thorough with your initial premium support and advice.

 

With this repair, everything is working great and fine but I know I am on borrowed time on the timing belt and will be replacing the CV joints soon. I will do the CV joints myself, no problem, have done them on many subies. I will have the dealer do the timing belts.

 

I hope I can rely on your help when something else goes out that is not easy for me to google and correct. I promise I will be more diligent on following precise directions. Thanks again for all your help, you guys did solve the problem.

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Nothing to apologise for. You learned something so it's a win. It's fixed so it's a double win. And you documented it all here for others to learn from so it's a triple win. And the only real cost was a little time from you and the forum.

 

That's great news that it's fixed!

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Nothing to apologise for. You learned something so it's a win. It's fixed so it's a double win. And you documented it all here for others to learn from so it's a triple win. And the only real cost was a little time from you and the forum.

 

That's great news that it's fixed!

 

I'm available to help with anyone who stumbles on this thread with similar issues. I did spend an excess of 8 hours researching online the in's in out's of the cruise system on 1999 2.5 automatic transmissions. Based on how little info there is, they must hold up pretty well and obviously EVERY vacuum line connection is the first thing to inspect and most likely the problem if no check engine lights are on and dash cruise button lights up and you hear the telltale clicks when using the cruise control toggle on the steering column.

 

The lowest vacuum line connecting to the cruise control pump located on the left side near the fender under the hood is probably subjected to more heat and elements hence the reason it failed while all other upper connections remain pristine.

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