[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete

Couple days ago gteaser and I did a little investigating into what would be needed for a damper delete kit. A few pictures and schematics later we had found an OEM part that would do exactly what we needed.

 

A solid day of driving after install I like how the clutch responds to the pedal. The pedal itself feels a little stiffer, the rpm's drop quicker between shifts, feels ALOT better during quick shifts.

 

Parts Needed:

Subaru part# 37255AJ000 It is a clutch line union located in the engine bay of the 5th gen legacy.

 

Tools Needed:

Phillips screwdriver

Flat head screwdriver

10mm brake line wrench

10mm open ended wrench

12mm deep 1/4" drive socket

1/4" ratchet

30 minutes

beer of choice

 

 

I had tried to get as much fluid out of the lines as possible before I had unbolted everything since I was changing clutch fluid at the same time. If you don't drain it like I did take precaution for the fluid leaks out of the lines in the car.

 

First you have to remove the lower cover under the steering wheel. It is held in place by 3 clips seen by looking underneath. After removing those with a phillips screwdriver the panel is tucked behind the left kick panel and has the obd2 connector attached to it. To remove the connector use a flat head screwdriver and release the clips on both sides holding it in. It will pull towards the backside of the panel.

 

Now with the panel removed this is what you will see.

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/reeg420/WP_20140325_001_zpsb847bfc9.jpg

 

Using the 12mm socket break the nut holding the damper valve in free. Next use the 10mm brake line wrench to break the lines free at the end of the damper valve facing the steering wheel and the line attached to the bottom of the clutch.

Use the 10mm open ended wrench to finish removing both lines.

Remove the 12mm nut that holds the damper valve in place.

Now remove damper valve and little bit on line out of the car.

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/reeg420/V__0494_zpsf32bacdf.jpg

 

Pay attention at the angle of the hard line coming off of the damper valve and switch it over to the union fitting and tighten it up since it would be harder to tighten in the car. That's the reason I took out the hard line with it.

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/reeg420/V__AD08_zps76a788d4.jpg

 

Installation is opposite of removal. I couldnt quite get the union to bolt into the bracket as far as the damper valve would because of one of the edges of the bracket. I still got the nut holding it in to catch a bunch of threads and its really snug. Just an FYI and you could trim the bracket but too much work to take it all out since there is almost no room as it is.

 

This is what it will look like when the union is installed.

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/reeg420/V__5912_zpsc65ae83a.jpeg

 

Follow the standard procedure to bleed the clutch and you're ready to go.

 

Thanks to gteaser for pointing out the OEM union in the parts diagram.

 

Enjoy.

Edited March 31, 2014 by reeg420

Nice write up reeg!! It's fantastic that this worked out and that you had the time to see it through. Now we can all get rid of that floating clutch engagement point. Great job!

I will drop this here from the FSM.

 

So lets say I don't want to change fluid at the same time.... Can I stop it from coming out when I change the piece? or will I have to add more after this mod?

You'll probably have to add more fluid and bleed the lines out.

i wonder if bleeding the system is as much of a pain as in a GD.

 

Problem with the gd was that the sc was not the highest point in the system, so to properly bleed it, you needed to remove a bunch of stuff.

There is hard line and the hard to rubber line connection that is above the slave, but the master is on the floor, so I don't see why there would be any issue bleeding the system. The master reservoir is well above the slave.

There is hard line and the hard to rubber line connection that is above the slave, but the master is on the floor, so I don't see why there would be any issue bleeding the system. The master reservoir is well above the slave.

 

i haven't looked at it in detail, but if the resevoir is above the whole system, then it's all good.

Yup the system was easy to bleed. Quick too. Bleeder screw is 8mm.

 

Master cylinder is in the car behind clutch pedal. Thats where the other end of the hard line that I took out with the damper goes to.

 

Gteaser I think you meant to say the master cylinder is well below the slave.

The master cylinder reservoir is well above the slave, just as I said it.

The master cylinder reservoir is well above the slave, just as I said it.

 

 

Yup missed reservoir before.

Still lost on why do it....

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/has-anyone-popped-clutch-master-cylinderi-200764.html?highlight=popped+master+cylinder

 

In addition to ^^this, many of us, including those with aftermarket clutches, have felt that the engagement point of the clutch floats around depending on how the car is being driven, and feels like it is in a different spot at times, making consistent shifting, downshifting and heel/toe more difficult. I believe this is due to the extra volume of hydraulic fluid that is being moved in and out of the damper, which changes based on the damper's metal diaphram flexing in response to the spike of pressure during quick clutch engagement. Technically it is doing what it is supposed to be doing, based on the engineers requirements to protect the driveline from shock, but it insulates the driver from the mechanicals. And unless you are dumping the clutch from standing starts often, there is really no reason to have it there as an additional failure point. Additionally I believe this is leading to slow pressure plate release and possibly contributing to some slipping or wear on the clutch disc.

Edited April 1, 2014 by GTEASER

Still lost on why do it....

 

Valve could crack like Surly's when using an aftermarket clutch.

 

I noticed that when I would do a really quick shift that the rpm's would climb as if clutch wasn't fully released by time I gave it more gas. Also when not shifting quick I would notice the rpm's took an extra split second to drop down. Plus I would feel like a noob taking off in first gear sometime after more than 15 years driving manual cars.

 

All has gone away since I swapped out the damper valve.

 

This was my reasons.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/has-anyone-popped-clutch-master-cylinderi-200764.html?highlight=popped+master+cylinder

 

In addition to ^^this, many of us, including those with aftermarket clutches, have felt that the engagement point of the clutch floats around depending on how the car is being driven, and feels like it is in a different spot at times, making consistent shifting, downshifting and heel/toe more difficult. I believe this is due to extra volume of hydraulic fluid that is being moved in and out of the damper, which changes based on the damper's metal diaphram flexing in response to the spike of pressure during quick clutch engagement. Technically it is doing what it is supposed to be doing, based on the engineers requirements to protect the driveline from sock, but it insulates the driver from the mechanicals. And unless you are dumping the clutch from standing starts often, there is really no reason to have there as an additional failure point. Additionally I believe this is leading to slow pressure plate release and possibly contributing to some slipping or wear on the clutch disc.

 

Well holy shît. I've been noticing these things happening, and figured it was due to my n00b driving. Perhaps it was the car acting goofy all along.

 

I'll add this to my to-do list for sure -- thanks for the writeup!

GTEASER and reeg420 - thank you. Well explained. I too noticed this but thought that was just part of the whole system. I now have an upgraded clutch and this makes sense.

Just received the OEM () delete (union) part from reeg420 yesterday. Need to get some hydraulic fluid and I might possibly order the Goodridge braided clutch line and do this mod, hopefully this weekend. I will post my thoughts. Thanks reeg!!!!!

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/01/7y5ydaru.jpg

Edited April 1, 2014 by GTEASER

And just to drop some more info here, this is a picture of the OEM part next to the intercooler (or along the firewall in NA cars) where it is being used for it's intended purpose, as a union between 2 hard lines, which is how we are using it for the damper delete, except in the damper location in the driver's footwell.

 

Just received the OEM () delete (union) part from reeg420 yesterday. Need to get some hydraulic fluid and I might possibly order the Goodridge braided clutch line and do this mod, hopefully this weekend. I will post my thoughts. Thanks reeg!!!!!

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/01/7y5ydaru.jpg

 

 

Explain this hydraulic fluid and braided clutch line please..

Really? Your clutch is actuated hydraulically like your brakes. Here is a picture of the braided clutch line, similar to braided brake lines, that replaces the rubber line between the firewall and the slave cylinder. You use brake fluid in the clutch line.

 

I think this is the one that fits our cars, but I will confirm.

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-961/Goodridge-Subaru-Stainless-Steel/Detail

 

 

The OEM rubber clutch line is in the BLUE CLOUD in the pic below.

 

Don't "Really?" me. Simple question and if you didn't want to answer it you didn't have to...

 

I didn't know that they made a braided replacement line and I thought it would be clutch fluid that went in there unless you over complicated Clutch fluid by using the term hydraulic fluid instead....

Sorry Spidey, I'm having a rough day at work today. I am confirming with Mike at Infamous that that particular braided line will fit our cars, his listing says it does. And yes, the hydraulic clutch system would use the same fluid as the braking system, nothing special specifically for the clutch.

no need for apology.... and from my research .. I can't find a braided line... They even have two different ones for the WRX/STI platform?

Great thread. I hope to do this in the near future. The OEM quirks have made this nearly 15 year manual driver look like a total noob at times.

gteaser, I look forward to hearing your thoughts about the braided line. I'm up for anything that improves the clutch feel.

Well holy shît. I've been noticing these things happening, and figured it was due to my n00b driving. Perhaps it was the car acting goofy all along.

 

I'll add this to my to-do list for sure -- thanks for the writeup!

 

Miro, I wish we lived a little closer, this could make a great afternoon wrenching on both our rides. The lack of a fixed engagement point has been bothering me for almost 5 years now. Definitely want to do this mod.