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Choover1101 96 LGT Slow Build and Info Page


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The aim and design of this thread is to search out and describe/note information that is not only second gen specific but is second gen applicable.

This is not designed to replace your own personal searching but there have been questions i have not been able to find the answer to that I believe should be available. This is my first large post/thread ever so a little basic vehicle information:

 

1996

Subaru

Legacy

GT

2.5

4ATE

230,000ish miles

MSD swap

Spectre air filter

2004 WRX Front Brakes

2004 Legacy Rear Brakes

2004 WRX Front Steering Knuckles

 

otherwise stock

 

I plan to post links to many threads/posts i feel are useful to each area and quote as needed.

If this is an issue for any rules I may have missed or if anything needs to be changed please notify me and I will do so as needed.

 

Also, please if you would like help me think out ideas.

 

General Info Sticky: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7365&postcount=1

Chassis Code Stuff : http://www.subyclub.com/topic/3500-subaru-model-engine-codes-explained/?p=115447

----- http://www.subyclub.com/topic/797-subaru-engine-and-transmission-code-deciphering/?p=16808

----- http://oakos.com/wrx/chassis_codes.htm

Reading Your VIN : http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html

20160722_123315-2.thumb.jpg.2efec322e72080eb38d209fb1de17c0a.jpg

Edited by choover1101
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Brake Upgrade information http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2nd-gen-lgt-brake-upgrades-wrx-front-and-h6-rear-154702.html?t=154702&highlight=Brake+upgrade

 

Note: The REAR brakes i used clear the 15" stock rims. I now have a full size spare.

 

Brake Upgrade:

---Replaced Front Brakes with 2004 Wrx https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc2373-26/overview/year/2004/make/subaru/model/impreza

---Replaced Rear Brakes with 2004 Legacy Turbo https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc3124-26/overview/year/2004/make/subaru/model/legacy

Edited by choover1101
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Finished Projects:

MSD swap. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5468607&postcount=18

---Guide used: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/msd-coil-into-subaru-step-step-photos-152338.html?t=152338&highlight=msd+coil

--- Coil PN-8239 (MSD) $72 (coupon) Local Pep Boys

----Wiring Pigtail PN- 180-0715 (Beck Arnley) $9.40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B58377Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

--- NGK Plug Wires (1997) PN-8931 (NGK) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RM6MN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Thermostat replaced:

---Thermostat PN- 21200AA072 (Subaru) $19.05 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGZQ0WS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

---Thermostat Gasket PN- 21236AA010 (Subaru) $5.71 https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-Thermostat-Gasket-21236AA010/dp/B00C3LXENY/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=01x9weo69%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=4V1RT9SGYQ35C5W31KPJ

---Upper Radiator Hose PN- 21851 (Gates) $11.34 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2SAGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

---Lower Radiator Hose PN- 21852 (Gates) $8.90 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2Y4K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Hood and Fender replaced: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5463132&postcount=4385

---I discovered the elusive snorkus and decided not to tame the beast. I felt it was most comfortable in its natural habitat. Still needs paint on the hood trying to find a non Dupli-color match for the factory silver. Rustoleum Titanium Silver is a little dark see fender in link. I found a semi match. Rustoleum Hammered Silver hides repairs and defects in the paint. The match is close enough.

 

Tie Rod Ends replaced PNx2- ES3712 (Moog) $28.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QR12FY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Brake Upgrade:

---Replaced Front Brakes with 2004 Wrx https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc2373-26/overview/year/2004/make/subaru/model/impreza

---Replaced Rear Brakes with 2004 Legacy Turbo https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc3124-26/overview/year/2004/make/subaru/model/legacy

 

04-07 WRX Steering Knuckle Swap:

Left PN-28313AE030 (Subaru) (Ebay) $75 http://parts.cleobaysubaru.com/p/Subaru_2004_WRX205-AT-4WDWAGON/HOUSING-FRONT-AXLE-LEFT/49238038/28313AE030.html

Right PN-28313AE020 (Subaru) (Ebay) $80 http://parts.cleobaysubaru.com/p/Subaru_2004_WRX205-AT-4WDSEDAN/HOUSING-FRONT-AXLE-RIGHT-----------------FOR-ABS/49238037/28313AE020.html

Wheel Bearing PNx2- 517008 (Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 55.58 pr

Wheel Hub PNx2- 930501 (Dorman) (Rock Auto) $ 36.46 pr

Ball Joint PNx2- K9513 (Moog) (Rock Auto) $ 47.58 pr

Inner Wheel Seal PNx2- 710464 (National\Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 7.58 pr

Outer Wheel Seal PNx2- 710463 (Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 7.34 pr

Wheel Bearing Retainer PNx2- CIR176 (SKF) (Rock Auto) $ 7.54 pr

Spindle Nut PNx2- 615160 (Dorman) (Rock Auto) $ 4.84 pr

 

Outback SUS Strut Swap: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5604916&postcount=21

 

Custom Strut Spacers: .5" Front 1" Rear HDPE cut at work.

Edited by choover1101
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Problem: At highway speeds releasing throttle caused passenger suspension to dip down and drag.

My Solution: Remove ABS relays and warning bulb.

Diagnosis: ABS light known previous brake issues and known clean wheel speed sensor on passenger front wheel.

 

Problem: Driver front disk brake shield wearing against rotor when turning right or maintaining straight course.

My Solution: Replace outer tie rod ends and wheel bearing.

Diagnosis: Worn outer tie rod ends noticed and when turning right the driver tire bears additional pressure causing the tie rod to flex into the brake shield. Checked for wheel bearing play.

Edited by choover1101
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When you go to do the timing and water pump consider taking the oil pump off, checking the clearences, or at least making sure all the screws in the back are tight, replace the o-ring as well as the gasket, and the front main seal. I did my cam seals (along with timing) at something like 200k to avoid them leaking in the future.
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Today I did the tie rod ends and had planned to do a wheel bearing swap as well, but my driver outer wheel bearing race was stuck in the steering knuckle. I attempted to press it out with a 20 ton standing press but this did not work. The plan is to order in a set of 04-07 WRX steering knuckles in Monday. So i can clean and prep them for an easy swap. The car will be sitting on a lift without a front suspension until this is completed. If anyone has any advice or warnings about the swap I would love to hear them. Also I have already disabled my ABS so the sensor location change does not affect my car.

 

Idiot's guide to mechanic-ing. There apparently is a lock ring that I did not see because of all the grease and damage to the outer race. I am still doing the swap but now the cause is my own fault.

Edited by choover1101
My own idiocy.
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I re-did the MSD swap. I got this loom in after doing it the first time and wanted to try it out.

Parts I Used:

---MSD Coil PN-8239 (MSD)

---Wiring Pigtail PN-180-0715 (Beck Arnley)

---Factory Subaru Coil Harness

---NGK Plug Wires (1997) PN-8931 (NGK)

I cut the factory harness off of the stock coil as close as I could to the coil, giving me as much working length as possible.

 

After stripping and matching up the wires:

Orange---Yellow

Black---Red

Blue---Grey

 

I soldered and used heat-shrink to secure and protect them.

 

Once the wires were finished I bolted the MSD on to the car with 2-M6 Bolts.

I considered making an adapter plate, but since I was working on this during my lunch hour i decided just to finish it.

 

Once the coil was bolted in I plugged in the wires for testing.

My spark plug wires lined up properly and I did not need to cross them.

 

After testing I pulled the harness back off and removed the pins from the plug end on the factory Subaru side of the harness using a small screwdriver.

 

Once the plug was off I slipped on the wire loom and heat-shrinked it to keep the ends from fraying.

 

I then plugged the wires back into the stock Subaru plug and reinstalled the harness into the car.

 

Performance change:

I had a check engine light before this and was getting 15mpg (knock sensor cel) I replaced both the MSD and the knock sensor on the same day. I cannot confirm the gas mileage loss that is noted by many who have done this. The weekend after I drove 4.5 hours to Amarillo and 4.5 hours back averaging 25 mpg on the highway.

 

In the actual felt performance area I would say I noticed a difference. Once again I did the knock sensor the same day so with the check engine light removed the computer would have allowed the engine to make more power.

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There is little to no information to be found about replacing the 4ATE transmission cooler from the bolt holes forward. This is the beginning of my research into my trans cooler supplement.

 

Transmission Oil Cooler Return Screw PN- 801914010

-Thread Size\Pitch- M14 1.5

-Overall Bolt Length- 31.79 MM

-Bolt Head Depth- 5.07 MM

-Bolt Shaft Length- 26.72MM

-Bolt Shaft Diameter- 13.97 MM

-Bolt Head Width- 18.97 MM

-Oil Pass Holes- 4 Evenly spaced around shaft alternating staggered height. High Low High Low

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1006115310_M14NutWidth.thumb.JPG.eae0a254af67a1ad255c8a693aaa7116.JPG

Edited by choover1101
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There is little to no information to be found about replacing the 4ATE transmission cooler from the bolt holes forward. This is the beginning of my research into my trans cooler supplement.

 

Transmission Oil Cooler Output Screw PN- 31292AA000

-Thread Size\Pitch- M16 1.5

-Overall Bolt Length- 37.07 MM

-Bolt Head Depth- 5.01 MM

-Bolt Shaft Length- 32.06 MM

-Bolt Shaft Length Minus Castle- 29.27 MM

-Bolt Shaft Diameter- 16.00 MM

-Bolt Head Width- 20.94 MM

-Oil Pass Holes- 2 Opposed in a recessed oil passage.

 

This bolt retains a ball and spring check valve to prevent the torque converter from draining back through the transmission cooler system and into the pan and harming the torque converter. To replace this bolt with a different setup will require installing a check valve in line.

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1070805677_M16NutWidth.thumb.JPG.0fe68e0f762c95fb5a87227a2fc46978.JPG

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  • 6 months later...

(UPDATE PICS LATER - Strut Pics, Spacer top measurements Also Fix Wall of Text)

 

These are measurements as recorded by me of stock 1996 Legacy GT struts at 230k miles and a new set of KYB Excel-G struts for a 1999 Legacy Outback SUS.

 

Front:

Overall Height:

(GT) 22" (SUS) 23.5"

 

Distance from base of strut tube to bottom of spring perch:

(GT) 8" (SUS) 9.5"

 

Distance from top of strut fully extended (threads) to the lowest spring mounting area on perch:

(GT) 12.5" (SUS) 12.625"

 

Rear:

Overall Height:

(GT) 27" (SUS) 28.5"

 

Distance from base of strut tube to bottom of spring perch:

(GT) 11.5" (SUS) 13"

 

Distance from top of strut fully extended (threads) to the lowest spring mounting area on perch:

(GT) 14" (SUS) 14.125"

 

 

Now into the swap stuff. I had already added in .5" spacers above the stock GT front struts and 1" over the rear. I made the spacers based on a scan I found on the forums here. Adding in the 1" spacer in the rear without lowering any of the rear suspension was difficult because you are trying to stick a strut in that is now 1" taller than stock in a space designed for a stock one. Adding in an outback strut that is already 1.5" taller and with the 1" spacer on top required me first insert the top of the strut into the car and bolt down two of the studs (lengthened) and thread nuts onto them then to to use a transmission holder designed for a lift. I put the transmission tool under the strut where the flange meets the outer tube, NOT where the bottom surface of the tube is. There is a small lip of tube sticking below the actual base of the strut. Once the transmission tool was placed there I lowered the lift I was working on. This compressed the strut, but also moved it forward away from the mounting flange on the rear wheel knuckle. I then had to use a ratchet strap attached to the strut and also to the rear tow point to move the strut rearward enough to slip over the wheel knuckle where it is designed to mount. Once this was finished I put in the lower strut bolt. Once the lower strut bolt was loosely installed I raised the car back up and used the transmission tool on a bolt on hub spacer. I placed the transmission tool under the lug nuts on the spacer and lowered the car again. This pivoted the upper hole on the strut flange into place and i then inserted the upper strut flange bolt and proceed to tighten both bolts. Once this was finished I did the same thing on the other side. One additional note, I had ratchet strapped both trailing arms together as tight as i felt was safe in order to pull the rear suspension down enough to begin installation. Front strut installation was a breeze. Even with a total 2" taller strut in the front there were no difficulties or differences noted from just installing the .5" spacer.

 

Final note. My car appears to have skipped leg day.

Edited by choover1101
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(UPDATE PICS LATER)

Today I installed a cheap UEL header due to a leaking stock manifold. Fit was atrocious. I had to use ratchet straps and a jack to get the second flange installed (based on reviews this was expected and prepared for {also somewhat enjoyable}). Also the flange from the header to the catalytic converters was off about half an inch as well. The gaskets supplied by DNA Motorsports did not seal and I will be ordering Remflex Gaskets.

 

Header PN-HDS-SI97-25RS (DNA Motorsports) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KAA3TQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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04-07 WRX Steering Knuckle Swap:

Left PN-28313AE030 (Subaru) (Ebay) $75 http://parts.cleobaysubaru.com/p/Sub...8313AE030.html

Right PN-28313AE020 (Subaru) (Ebay) $80 http://parts.cleobaysubaru.com/p/Sub...8313AE020.html

Wheel Bearing PNx2- 517008 (Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 55.58 pr

Wheel Hub PNx2- 930501 (Dorman) (Rock Auto) $ 36.46 pr

Ball Joint PNx2- K9513 (Moog) (Rock Auto) $ 47.58 pr

Inner Wheel Seal PNx2- 710464 (National\Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 7.58 pr

Outer Wheel Seal PNx2- 710463 (Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 7.34 pr

Wheel Bearing Retainer PNx2- CIR176 (SKF) (Rock Auto) $ 7.54 pr

Spindle Nut PNx2- 615160 (Dorman) (Rock Auto) $ 4.84 pr

 

Note: The 04-07 WRX uses different wheel speed sensors. I have disabled my ABS so this does not bother me. The Cruise Control and the AWD still function well even without sensors on the front. I am curious as to how the transmission gets its information for adjusting the AWD.

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  • 2 weeks later...
The Cruise Control and the AWD still function well even without sensors on the front. I am curious as to how the transmission gets its information for adjusting the AWD.

 

Cruise control and AWD don't rely on the ABS sensors, they rely on Speed Sensor 1 and 2. Speed Sensor 1 (in the front of the transmission) detects the speed of the vehicle's front wheels and controls the cruise control system and front diff. Speed sensor 2 monitors the output speed to the rear wheels and controls duty solenoid C. If sensor 2 value is more than sensor 1, the TCU tells Duty Solenoid-C to engage and give more power to the rear wheels because the front wheels are slipping.

 

I learned this due to a sensor 2 failure on my SVX. It threw the check engine light and reverted my car to FWD only. When sensor 1 went out, so did my speedometer, cruise, and the system reverted to FWD only. Ironically when sensor 1 or 2 fails, my cooling fans ran all the time. Once I replaced those two sensors, the fans worked like normal.

Edited by Setnev
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