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bushings on rear suspension


xt2005bonbon

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Has anyone ever changed bushings on their rear arms and/or rear link and/or upper link (see illustration below)? If you did, could you tell us which ones you changed and which brand/model you're using? I think my rear arm front bushings are shot (the one I circled twice). Again, this is only for the REAR suspension.

bushings_rearsuspension_lgt_obxt.JPG.6fef4f1c8b90d818ffad73a8c1506558.JPG

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I've replaced two sets of arms because the eccentric bolt seized in the bushing you have circled once. I didn't have time to order just the bushing, but the dealer had the complete arm in stock both times. What makes you think your trailing arm bushing is shot? I know mine looks like it's offset inside the arm itself, as if it was being pushed out, but it's the same on both of our cars.

 

To my knowledge, no one makes an aftermarket bushing for either OEM arm application that you have circled. You can use an adjustable upper arm from someone like Whiteline which does use poly bushings

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I heard a rumor awhile back whiteline was developing that bushing but don't think it's released, not sure if that's still going to happen. It's close to the size of the big bushing on the front lca, but not close enough.

 

That sucks. I'll contact them and find out if they do have a replacement for bushing 13. Meanwhile, could you guys check yours to see if it's worn out some? I just want to see that I am not a rare case (56000 mile car).

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I am just wondering if them being worn seriously affect handling in the rear, especially knowing that our 'rear end' handling on the OBs is really not that great to begin with.

 

On another note, would this be the whiteline replacement for bushing 13? http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W63398

 

Also sent an email to the whiteline folks.

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Got a reply from whiteline (in the U.S.):

 

Hi,

 

Thank you for contacting Whiteline. Yes, the W63398 appears to be the correct bushing for the front trailing arm.

 

Best Regards,

 

Not very convincing if you ask me. I'll ask whiteline over the land down under..

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I just did those. Do yourself a favor and buy the whole arm. I thought it was about 80 per side.

 

I have a lift and hyd press and I will just buy the whole arm next time. The arms are not a perfect flatness to press out the bushing and this makes it very difficult.

 

Just make sure to buy the bolts and washers and nuts. I'm pretty sure that they are probably seized. I put antiseize on the new hardware. I would post up the part numbers but I just threw away all the packages.

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I just did those. Do yourself a favor and buy the whole arm. I thought it was about 80 per side.

 

I have a lift and hyd press and I will just buy the whole arm next time. The arms are not a perfect flatness to press out the bushing and this makes it very difficult.

 

Just make sure to buy the bolts and washers and nuts. I'm pretty sure that they are probably seized. I put antiseize on the new hardware. I would post up the part numbers but I just threw away all the packages.

 

Thanks for your feedback. Was it a pain to take off these arms from the car? And just to make sure, Legacy N/A // GT and OBXT all share those same arms right?

 

Boxkita, thanks for letting me know about the backorder issue..

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In my case it sucked to get the camber bolt out since it was seized. I used a sawzall after using other air tools that didn't work. It actually cut pretty good.

 

I bought stuff from FBP so I dunno about what parts swap, I just gave them my vin.

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The bushings are one piece (steel outer with rubber and a steel sleeve for the bolt to pass through).

 

The hard part is that the arm has a bend in it, so it is extremely difficult to press it in cause it starts to kick out. And to make matters worse the outside lip is about 2mm, so you don't have much to rest it on the arbor plates. You need the exact size pipe cause a socket will NOT work to press these in. At least my 3/4 drive six point sockets wouldn't.

 

Just buy the entire arm ;) . Learn from my hassles.

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Huh. That's nice but weird cause the schematic shows the rear trailing arm (item 11) as one big metal piece holding the hub and everything. So to change one, you'd have to take off hub and everything. I also saw this thread which basically kinna said the same thing: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-trailing-arm-bushing-starting-seperate-101802.html?t=101802 .

 

I am just making sure we're talking about the same bushing (13).

 

Here is a pic from the net:

http://www.flatironstuning.com/images/Product/large/1338.jpg

http://www.flatironstuning.com/popup.aspx?src=images/Product/large/1338.jpg

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