subi_life Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 https://www.facebook.com/nightmotorsport/posts/1420160101387595:0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 15, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 15, 2017 looks pretty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi_life Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Anyone know if these are good bottomends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 15, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 15, 2017 can't tell from the picture... I don't have a book of face account, is it on their website somewhere? https://nightmotorsport.com/ All I can tell from that picture is it's not sleeved and it's got showy Porsche logos on the top of the pistons. Cp it says? I hope that's not a finished block, it can't be with them both TDC and then some, looks like they just shoved the pistons in the holes because the clearance is in negative numbers with the piston protruding. Anyway... with the other parts for $2800 it seems okay - a stock block would be $1800 so a $1000 more for the rods, pistons and ACL bearings... well okay. (shrug) I haven't heard of them before though so reputation is everything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi_life Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Thanks that's kinda what I was thinking to good to be true... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 So the next question is why do you think you need that ? What are your HP goals ? How do you plan to drive the car, DD or as a toy that doesn't get driven a lot ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi_life Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 Well my engine burns a shit tone of oil and I have no clue where it's going because it dosent leak.. my hp goal is somewhere between 4-6 hundred Hp and for a DD. I recently just started buying small stuff for my car nothing major. Gunna start with supporting mods then go for the bottom end heads Pistons crank and intake manifold. As long as we're talking about manifolds is the cosworth manifold with that 1400? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 17, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 17, 2017 Well my engine burns a shit tone of oil and I have no clue where it's going because it dosent leak.. Question asked and answered right there... It's internal then. Could be piston rings, more likely the Turbo. Anywho... 4-6 hundred Hp eh? IF you are serious... then get a sleeved block. But you are going down a very expensive project for a DD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 If you are actually serious about 400-600hp. Start here and talk with this guy http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/thisisthenewsic-quest-600-whp-225425.html It's not cheap. Anything you buy "because it's a good deal" will probably hold you back and end up costing you more in the long run. BUUT (and I don't care about the answer at all), why do you need 400-600 HP. Are you willing to spend the many thousands (probably 10s of thousands realistically) to get there? If not, mid 350s is probably a better place to be and much easier / cheaper. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 17, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 17, 2017 Cost me a lot of money (A LOT OF MONEY) and heartache to get a reliable 550hp crank - I blew one engine up in the process but lessons learned. Even now the car cannot be called a DD up here in the NE - On really cold days the catch can lines can freeze, engine doesn't breath and pops the dipstick and pumps oil out and even if it doesn't you always have to wait and wait and wait until it's properly warmed up so there will never be a start and go. It's trashed it's first ACT clutch at 18K miles and I live like a rat in a cage to every new noise the car makes. It's a great car, I love it... but I bought another GT so I can leave the first one alone on days it's not appropriate to drive. That much power and supporting mods to get it there will not make it a DD for me but you are in CA so... you probably can get away with it... maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 17, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 17, 2017 Here is the blown up at 400whp engine... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-my-sleeper-wont-wake-up-249225.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi_life Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'm kinda willing to take the hit to the pockets and headaches if i can achieve this then it was all worth it, even if I do blow a engine that will be a lesson learned for me, On with the next build! But until then I'll be collecting a bunch of parts, my plan is to build a full engine from scratch on a engine stand I wanna use some of the best parts there are so Ill know it's reliable. I was originally gunna just go with 350 hp yeah that was my original plan but 500 sounds a little better! And for my oil problem what do you guys think that is? It's crazy how fast it goes out.. the turbo is supposed to be a year old, but I recently just changed the upipe to a cobb catless and the stock uppipes catt was all broken when I took it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 500hp & DD are mutually exclusive especially when you post this "my engine burns a shit tone of oil and I have no clue where it's going because it dosent leak" Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subi_life Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'm getting a new bottomend, if you can't read.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I think he is trying to say - If you no clue where your oil is going and can not diagnose that, how are going to maintain a high maintenance 500hp daily driver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 anything over 350 on a Subaru is a waste and a PITA to drive. Go get more displacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 18, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 18, 2017 anything over 350 on a Subaru is a waste and a PITA to drive. Go get more displacement. opinion certainly, but I wouldn't say a waste or a PITA but certainly there are more issues to be aware of and deal with... but driving 400+ whp is like flying an aircraft on the ground and is superb fun! PITA never, nope, uhuh, no way, not at all... TOO much fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 a 400whp turbo 4 vs a 400whp V6/8 is a much different beast. If you really want that much HP i say a Subaru isnt the best starting platform especially when you look at cost and reliability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 18, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 18, 2017 Depends on your mindset. I specifically wanted it on a Subaru and I got reliability but yeah, it cost a lot. I wouldn't ever own a V6/V8 - I don't disagree with you but there are people like me who want what they want even if to others it makes no sense. You can however build a Subaru car that you would never know has 400whp until you put your foot down because it still behaves nicely in traffic and slower speeds. I got mine there and I have no regrets with the $120k or whatever it's taken from me since 2008 to get there. and a 400whp Subaru isn't at all like a V6/V8 with the same power... that I do agree with, it's a lot more fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Depends on your mindset. I specifically wanted it on a Subaru and I got reliability but yeah, it cost a lot. I wouldn't ever own a V6/V8 - I don't disagree with you but there are people like me who want what they want even if to others it makes no sense. You can however build a Subaru car that you would never know has 400whp until you put your foot down because it still behaves nicely in traffic and slower speeds. I got mine there and I have no regrets with the $120k or whatever it's taken from me since 2008 to get there. and a 400whp Subaru isn't at all like a V6/V8 with the same power... that I do agree with, it's a lot more fun. $120K When it was mentioned it would cost a lot I was thinking in the neighborhood of $15K - $25K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 $120K When it was mentioned it would cost a lot I was thinking in the neighborhood of $15K - $25K :lol::lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 18, 2017 Moderators Share Posted January 18, 2017 Starting essentially from scratch and doing it right the first time, dump around $20k into an LGT of your choice and you'd have a pretty damn reliable 400whp Subaru motor: $10k 6mt swap: $5k Turbo / exhaust: $2500 Suspension: $3k Done. And all of those prices are probably a bit inflated. Is it fiscally responsible or do you end up with a car that's worth the $25k that you have into it? Nope. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 18, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 18, 2017 $120K When it was mentioned it would cost a lot I was thinking in the neighborhood of $15K - $25K Yeah right. You can get there for that kind of money but it won't last. My $120K is an honest estimate of what I have spent on the car in total which includes buying the car in the first place and all maintenance and mods which include two engines and at this point two gearboxes too (Now with blast plates too!). My final long block alone probably cost $15k just for parts and not the labor to assemble and install it. My shortblock cost $9k and is built for 1200hp crank. The whole engine will currently handle 1000hp crank and 8500rpms but it won't last very long at that power - but at 500hp crank it will last 100k because it just doesn't care! But there are so many supporting mods and expensive parts to make sure it doesn't care and remains happy... this is not a cheap car to get right and as RWebb mentioned it is easier and cheaper to get 400whp with a V6/V8 but I wanted to do it to this car... this is my hobby and I don't like BMW's or other types of cars which I could have afforded but that's not what I like. I spent $10k on one "mod" which was a second 2005 Subaru GT so I didn't have to DD the first one. That alone will prevent a lot of damage and wear to the first car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 18, 2017 Moderators Share Posted January 18, 2017 ^The fact that you've gone through 2 transmissions and now have a 5mt with blast plates is the silliness that gets you to spend way too much money. Do everything right the first time and you likely save some money, i.e. just do a 6mt swap and be done (ish). "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 18, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 18, 2017 Again. I am doing what I wanted to do - the previous transmission was loose and making noise at 90K miles - it was DONE - It finally threw its 5th gear at 134K miles on a VERY harsh shift at about 120mph from 4th to 5th and BANG - so it survived for all that time. There is nothing wrong with the 5 speed except for the case flex - the new one cost $900 from JDM and had approx 30K miles on it - it's dead quiet and the blast plates are an insurance policy. I have driven the 6MT and it's just not for me... EDIT: And I considered all options, including the 6MT but as I said, didn't like it - I did look at building a 5MT properly but the cost on that - nah... I just couldn't - that was another easy 15K to do right! I can keep getting low mileage 5MT's and we will see how the blast plates last but I suspect it will do me just fine for a very long time, longer than I will likely have the car because seriously something else will happen by then. If I don't wrap it around something it may just rust away in NE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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