Boost controller birdsnest

I've got this mess by where the Grimspeed boost controller was installed.

I started trying to get my new to me 2005LGT5MT wagon running properly yesterday and a bunch of codes revolving around the MAF and intake sensors/actuators. I'm not 100% about the workings in the intake and TGV's and such. There are a bunch of loose sensors and wires/tubes and such around this boost controller. One of them is one of the codes popping up. I can't imagine that it's good to have electrical components bouncing around like that. I can't really figure out a good way to secure these things other than zip ties... There must be a way persons do this , yes?

Old pic, that's all clean now but, you can see the loose components there around the top of the intake and boost control.

Check out covert russians sti inlet install. He just shoved all his under the intake manifold, which is what I'm doing with mine. You could custom fab some brackets, which I may do at some point, using the OE bracket that holds it all as a base.

 

Exactly what codes are you getting? That's bcs, a uhhh fuel evap solenoid, and a vacuum sensor for the fuel lines I believe.

 

For reference, this is the stock set up.

 

 

And how it seems to normally get left.

Edited November 1, 2019 by Nonamedude

The component dangling on your alternator is the MAP sensor, which helps measure boost pressure. Important. I just had to deal with a small hose connecting it to the intake manifold. You should check it. Mine was completely hardened, and thereby providing poor seals and vacuum leaks, etc..

The MAP sensor should definitely be secured.

Wait that's the MAP sensor? I thought it was a fuel thing. That's the one with the weird foamy white filter circle on it right?

Thanks Guys

p2011 intake manifold runner intake open bank 1

p2008 " "bank 2

p2021 " " bank 1 positions switch low volt

p2016 " " bank 2 " "

p0103 MAF high output (probably fine now replaced MAf)

Idk I thought the MAP sensor was on the throttle body. Must have gotten confused. Should be secured though? Could likely screw it in to one of the holes on the intake manifold near where it goes stock, which would where OPs BCS is. Not sure what that black foamy pad thing is on his manifold though. Can't tell if he has an open screw hole.

That's right. I had to deal with it this very week!

See here:

 

 

Whats the chance these are codes related to sensors that would become superfluous with a TGV delete?

So the plot thickens... My shop neighbor threw his fancy scanner on it and all those codes came up defined as "tumble generation valve blah blah". There does not seem to be anywhere for the dongle off the harness to plug in where there should be TGV's. I think it has dletes on it? Here is what I think is going on. Semi-knowledgeable owner puts some mods down on this car. Sells it, it changes hands and gets worked on. Somewhere along the way it loses it's tune or it gets corrupted if that's a thing. It's now trying to run on a stock map or a broken/incorrect one.

Now I got to figure out if these are stock injectors? are they side or top? I can't tell the difference. It's all gotten very interesting suddenly.

Must find stock air box if I'm going to get it tuned. I hate that K&N with every fiber of my being, I don't care if that's a rational feeling or not...

Here's a pretty good pictorial on the difference. Damn, I should have taken a picture, now I gotta drive down to the shop and see...

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/top-feed-vs-side-feed-tgv-192686.html?t=192686

Unless they put a bunch more money in it, they should be side feeds. OE sides are yellow, OE tops are blue.

 

It could be that the tgv failed. That DOES happen and is why I did a kinda half ass delete on mine (should have gone all the way).

 

Sorry I didn't recognize those as the tgv codes. I'm literally working on deleting those right now.

 

You'll want to pull the manifold off. If the PO didn't do a tgv delete, you've possibly got a major air blockage with it stuck closed. AFAIK the ecu can't revert to the stock tune and tunes don't really get "corrupted" unless you're reading or writing to the ecu and lose power to stuff.

 

 

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Keep an eye on the junkyards and part out threads. Check nasioc as well.

 

Since you're not getting ALL the tgv codes, I think you've got an actual issue. Those codes put the vehicle in limp mode so you would have known if they were there before. That said, great time for a tgv delete. Last I looked there were both top and side feed deletes for sale on the forum.

 

Now I just gotta remember to secure my MAP sensor tomorrow. And I guess the bcs as well. I didn't replace that hose yet, maybe I should.

 

 

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Just looked through that thread. When you're looking to see top or side feed, it'll be easier to look at the injectors themselves, assuming everything is assembled. These are oe top feeds. If they converted it, you likely won't have the same injectors, but the side feeds are these weird puck like yellow topped things.

 

 

 

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Speaking of a stock air box.

 

NY: After Sale 4th gen (2005) parts

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=5383&share_tid=280873&url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D280873&share_type=t&link_source=app

 

Bit much imo. And he doesn't say if it comes with the snorkel thing. And gkinslow is gonna yell at him for no pics.

I am going to say I am fairly certain they were yellow but, It'll be morning before I go down again. I'm picking up what you're putting down here except there's no place to plug that lead in for the TGV. It goes to nothing so, that seems to suggest there is a delete?

Ahhhhh I see what you are saying. So the big grey plug (mine are grey at least) that goes under the front of the turbo inlet, goes to nothing. As in the motor and actuator are not located under the turbo inlet like they should be (driver side is on the rear of the engine btw). If that is the case, then yes a TGV delete. I'm sure I've read this in one of your threads, but I'm assuming when you got the car, there were no CEL correct?

I'm sure I've read this in one of your threads, but I'm assuming when you got the car, there were no CEL correct?

Well, it was something that collectively it was determined would be a good idea. There were CEL and some rather nasty grinding noises coming out of the drive train. I paid very little for it and the assumption was that I would build an engine. Turned out the grinding was a wheel bearing only and a new MAF cleared up a lot of the engine trouble. Not smoking so I started entertaining the idea of using this motor. I'm definitely still starting the next but, I think I can get this one to run for a bit at least.

Not 100 about the position of those plugs. There are two that hang down right about where the fuel rails are. More central between the cylinders than front and rear like you are describing. I don't know what else they'd go to though.

What would be an obvious way to discern between a delete and a standard?

ahhh new I'd read the deal somewhere. Yea the TGV are identical driver and passenger side, which means the wiring harness runs to the rear of the driver TGV and front of the passenger TGV. If they did a delete, the big black uhhh sensor thing (it's the actuator) won't be there most likely and somewhere nearby ish should be a grey plug. IMO passenger side is easier to see.

 

Unless they were dumb like me and took them apart and put them back together without properly deal with the dang little spring thingy. I removed the valves in mine but left the rods in, so it looks like a regular tgv and should act like it but I broke the sensors, which is why I'm trying to delete the CEL. But I also know I don't have a blockage there so I'm not worried about them not moving.

 

I know you're not in front of the car but I'd look at the TGV themselves and see if you can find those big black actuators. I suppose you could leave those plugs dangling between the fuel rails.

 

If you need some photos, Covert russian has good ones here. I think there is also another good one on my phone. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/build-install-tgv-deletes-263724.html?

Kinda bored trying to figure out romraider so here's more.

 

My thumb is touching the tgv plug and the black thing is that actuator. You can also see my top feed rails and injectors. That blue plug goes into the ocv sensor. That's basically everything in that area.

 

Really if you confirm they are deleted and that should be easy to tell, just delete the cel and move on.

 

Ok so they are definitely deleted. no actuators there.

Almost raises more questions than answers.

Why does it run poorly at low rpm and idle?

How do you just delete a CEL?

Is there a way to do a quick and dirty MAP install that is close until the coming round of parts changes occurs? I have the patience to just wait but, I want to get a feel for the overall health of this engine.

Well, I can't say much for poor idle and low rpm running, since limp mode should more or less work fine there.

 

You delete cel with a cobb AP or a tactrix. It's not hard per say. There are questions about if there was a tune on there. If there was a cobb tune and it was unmarried that's why it runs poorly I'd think. If there's a cobb tune and it's not unmarried then the ecu is locked. If there's no tune then it's much easier.

 

I think a place to go from here is how do you wish to tune the car? What do you want (once again I've read it but I forget). If you want to run e85 and things like that.

 

Is your maf code still there? How far have you driven the vehicle?

 

 

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MAF left with the new sensor. I've got a grip of parts on the way and a commitment to build a new motor from scratch with a new shortblock but, I just want to have this running in the meantime.

Is there not some way to just plug a laptop in here? If it's locked do I just go buy a new ecu from the junkyard?

You bought a previously modified car with very little known history right? If I were you and couldn’t get any history on it I’d start with the overall health of the engine. Check the timing belt and components, compression test, boost leak test, smoke test, maybe even oil analysis. If you don’t already have the means to log/flash pick a way to (accessport or btssm/ tactrix) Next put together a list of known mods and get it to a tuner for a base map via etune or otherwise.

 

You may want to send out the injectors to be flow tested. Yellow injectors don’t necessarily mean they’re stock and even if they are stock at least you’ll know they’re good.

 

The cel for the tgv delete is annoying to look at but won’t put car in limp mode. A tuner will remove the cel in the tune.

 

Definitely stay out of boost till you at least have a way of monitoring for knock correction.

 

 

Dave