5eat Track Times

I know of the 1/4 mile thread but it's mostly mt's. Just curious of what you 5eat guys are running and what your setups are? I've done alot of digging but alot of info is spread out, it be nice to have info packed In 1 thread.

 

 

I myself own a 08 5eat. Invida turboback, Perrin dropin filter and Cobb stage 2 ots map. Just curious what people are running and what to expect.

 

 

I have noticed the 07-09 Cobb maps make half the amount of what the 05 06 make, and there's 2X the amount of maps for the older ones aswell. (20% increase for 05 06 and only 10% increase for 07-09 )

 

Il be hitting the track this weeknd with some buddies so il have official numbers for you guys and for everyone to use as future reference . It be nice getting info on what the car does how it sits and seeing what kind of difference other mods will do. (Vf52, Intercooler, Protune)

With a 5eat ots stage 2 with mods listed and good 60' time you should run around 13.8-14.5 seconds in the 1/4.

Yea I was thinking somewhere in the 14 second range. Get an etune from brentuning and you might hit high 13s

Just got back, got 5 runs in before I called it quits.

Had a good time, but was preety disappointed, the car definitely did not feel good or run were it should be

 

Plenty of factors can play into why it's sluggish but I wanted to get some base numbers down

 

RUN 1) 15.1 at 92.33, 60ft of 2.307

 

RUN 2) 15.1 at 90.29, 60ft of 2.225

 

RUN 3) 15.7 at 89.18, 60ft of 2.439

 

RUN 4) 15.5 at 90.94, 60ft of 2.347

 

RUN 5) 15.4 at 91.22, 60ft of 2.313

 

It got hot fairly quick. And heatsoaked aswell after 2 runs.

 

Got the car at 120k miles, car had been siting for a GOOD WHILE, before I came along and picked it up. Oil was the only fluid I changed and have put 1700 miles into it since I gotten it

 

Next step is a complete fluid flush, tranny, diff. Etc.. Cars on stock wheels and old tires. Gona do some maintenence aswell, definitely some plugs.

 

Il be back at it again soon enough, with the car freshened up and see what kinda differences it makes.

Edited October 31, 2015 by 08_GT

Ok guys I might of figured out an issue. After hooking up the accessport I'm notcing thaty my boost hits 15 for a fraction of a second and quickly drops to 10.car feels underpowered so I'm thinking a boost leak somewhere? What are some of the most common areas to check and to look for on these cars? I also scanned for errors and No check engine codes.

 

I'm also going to take care of the heat factor, since I don't have a heat sheild or Anything atm. Just bare turbo

 

Note I do have a gfb response. I installedit as is? Possibly leaking Bov?

There is a blue t between the intake manifold and intercooler. It is a very common part to come off. It does not have any rips so the hose slips off easily. There is a metal replacement one that has ripped barbs that works much better and I have never blown one off. I'd check that first.

There is a blue t between the intake manifold and intercooler. It is a very common part to come off. It does not have any rips so the hose slips off easily. There is a metal replacement one that has ripped barbs that works much better and I have never blown one off. I'd check that first.

 

Company23 makes them, hit up turkeylord. buy one, or two actually. Get the second for your bov > fpr.

Ok guys I might of figured out an issue. After hooking up the accessport I'm notcing thaty my boost hits 15 for a fraction of a second and quickly drops to 10.car feels underpowered so I'm thinking a boost leak somewhere? What are some of the most common areas to check and to look for on these cars? I also scanned for errors and No check engine codes.

 

I'm also going to take care of the heat factor, since I don't have a heat sheild or Anything atm. Just bare turbo

 

Note I do have a gfb response. I installedit as is? Possibly leaking Bov?

 

you need a tune

There is a blue t between the intake manifold and intercooler. It is a very common part to come off. It does not have any rips so the hose slips off easily. There is a metal replacement one that has ripped barbs that works much better and I have never blown one off. I'd check that first.

 

If you have a 2008 like your name implies. You might not have this. I don't in my 2008 Outback.

My last drag strip passes were 13.35 @ 96 MPH with H rated tires on Capital Raceway In Crofton, Maryland. If all goes well on the build, I should at least break even 13's on good tires. I'm not gonna launch it nearly as hard as I did when I got it. I pretty much bought it, ran it , retuned it then ran it again.

That's an excellent time. My buddy ran a 13.3 in his evo 8 RS. Im ordering a few parts and will be looking over the car on the weeknd. Il let u guys know what comes up. Thanks for the help

if it would help, I can split the 1/4 timesheet into m/t & auto. Posting on the 1/4 thread would keep it all together.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-fastest-legacy-thread-1-4-and-1-8-184089.html - has 1/8 mile & 5eat times. You still have to follow the rules to get on the official list... Edited November 5, 2015 by boxkita
fix link

Yea definitely I agree boxkita

if it would help, I can split the 1/4 timesheet into m/t & auto. Posting on the 1/4 thread would keep it all together.

 

I would appreciate it if you did this! Until now I have had to do some mass skimming to find the 5eat times on the list.

The 5eat can handle a lot of power if you have the right people build the Transmission. I won't waste your time going over my specific situation other than to say my new Subaru engine puts out close to 900 whp and I will be using the 5eat transmission that will be built shortly by Level 10. Along with highly modifying and re-programming the 5eat transmission the transmission, based on my discussion with Level 10, is capable of handling up to 1100 horsepower. Obviously this vehicle is used for carshows and drag racing only. We expect to turn about 150 to 160 in a little over 8 seconds starting this next summer.

The 5eat can handle a lot of power if you have the right people build the Transmission. I won't waste your time going over my specific situation other than to say my new Subaru engine puts out close to 900 whp and I will be using the 5eat transmission that will be built shortly by Level 10. Along with highly modifying and re-programming the 5eat transmission the transmission, based on my discussion with Level 10, is capable of handling up to 1100 horsepower. Obviously this vehicle is used for carshows and drag racing only. We expect to turn about 150 to 160 in a little over 8 seconds starting this next summer.

 

when you get a time slip, be sure to post up here - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-fastest-legacy-thread-1-4-and-1-8-184089.html

 

an 8 sec time would decimate the current record

The 5eat can handle a lot of power if you have the right people build the Transmission. I won't waste your time going over my specific situation other than to say my new Subaru engine puts out close to 900 whp and I will be using the 5eat transmission that will be built shortly by Level 10. Along with highly modifying and re-programming the 5eat transmission the transmission, based on my discussion with Level 10, is capable of handling up to 1100 horsepower. Obviously this vehicle is used for carshows and drag racing only. We expect to turn about 150 to 160 in a little over 8 seconds starting this next summer.

 

We will believe it when we see it... good luck!

I too have looked into Level 10 for my trans build. Let us know how it works out. They say on there site the 5EAT built can take 700hp but maybe they offer additional upgrades to get you to that 1100hp. Good luck and keep us informed.

Mike07LGT

Our engine is very similar to an engine that is in existence in South Carolina. We both use the Outfront Closed Deck Short Block,(mine is the new version 4, his is the version 3), which Outfront states they have no idea how much power the version 4 engine can sustain.

 

But that the version 3 is rated to 700whp but has achieved 850 whp in several cases. Of course we are using highly modified cams, valves and anything else that will help generate and manage the amount of power we are seeking. But the real dilemma is the Turbos. We currently have the Borg Warner EFR8374. But we just tested the EFR9180 and shut the engine down on the engine dyno because there is a huge difference in the amount of air flow that they generate. The 8374 generates 79lbs of air flow and the 9180 generates 94lbs of air flow. The difference in power is staggering and requires that we connect the Transmission before we make full runs on the Dyno. We will keep you informed as we go through this process. One other factor that makes us believe that we will turn in the 8's is that our Legacy weighs in at with no fuel @ 2745lbs! The stock Legacy weigh about 3450 lbs give or take a few lbs.

 

The fun part of this project is you have to look very closely and know what your looking at or otherwise, the car looks box stock. The exhaust rumbles a little but is very quiet until you put your foot to the firewall.

 

To:Starionesir

Give Level 10 a call and speak to Pat. He informed me that the 5EAT not only needs the internals modified but the biggest issue is to make the shifts smooth like the 1100 whp Mercedes. He feels the 5eat can achieve similar numbers but that the programming of the transmission is the key.

 

By the way, the gentleman in South Carolina turns 8.54 @159 in the 1/4 mile. His car is a daily driver and other than his wheels looks very stock. You can find him on You Tube making his 8 second run. Bye for now!

Thanks for the info. I'm probably never getting to that power level but glad to hear they think the transmission is capable of handling the power. You say programming the transmission, are you meaning through the tcu or with the actual upgrades in the transmission?

Yes, via both the tcu and the trans build!

Small update

 

Alright guys I took care of a few things, like I stated before the car felt and had symptoms of a boost leak. So today I installed some parts and I definitely fixed the issue.

 

To start things of I had no heatsheild, so there was nothing between the turbo and the intercooler.

 

I installed a ptp lava turbo blanket, and a Perrin heatshield, I also layed DEI Gold high temp tape underneath the entire heatshield.

 

So the heatsoaking issue is fixed for sure. As far as the boost leak goes it turns out It was the intercooler coupler. the throttle body clamp was completely Loose as if someone had loosened it on purpose.

 

I installed a Perrin coupler and everything was nice and tight. After that It was an emidiate difference. Car felt stronger and back normal.

 

I even paired it up against my buddies evo for fun. If the evo doesn't get a perfect launch I literally launch ahead of him and stay preety even til 70+ when he starts pulling. Once he got a good launch he does stay ahead a little but I'm right behind him. From a roll its the same story I stay right behind him but he does keep pulling away slowly.

 

Not to bad I think, I'm glad the car is working properly again, thanks for the help guys

 

 

My plans are getting a tmic and a pro tune, but I will definitely be hitting the track again to see were I'm currently at.

Intercooler leaks are always a problem and you did all the right things to correct the problem. However, heat soak is caused by many factors, not just the area around the Turbo. The Transmission generates heat, the engine generates heat and in the summer there is the peripheral heat from the surface temperatures and humidity. The truth is the stock intercooler is just to small to handle heat soak beyond normal commuting. So, if your going to alleviate this problem you can certainly move to another AVO, or Grimmspeed top mount, or spend about the same money and get a Front Mount intercooler. Having a front mount intercooler will allow you to maximize any future power adders and tune ups in the future.

 

The best method of intercooling is to use water/methanol injection, which you will need to have a professional install properly, or you can go to E85, which allows the engine to run much, much cooler. However, with E85 you will need to increase the size of your injectors to 850cc, get a 450lph fuel pump and have a tuneup preferably by a Cobb Pro-Tuner in your area? A side benefit to using E85 is that you will pickup 40 to 60 whp during the tuneup. If you decide to use E85 change the oil about every 2000 miles and your engine should be fine.

Yea definitely I understand about the heat. But it's definitely helping the cause, after reading over this thread I decided to do it

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2428140

 

I did everything identical. Minus wraping the downpipe which I might do so in the future. About 1/3 of it starting from the top.

 

I have 2 questions, I was planning on getting a Perrin tmic before I get a Protune on the stock turbo/fuel.

 

Do I really need a Intercooler? Considering it being the stock turbo/fuel? I thought about it. And simply said il get a tmic when I upgrade the turbo.

 

Do I need a EBCS? I'm only planing on getting tuned at 18-19 psi on the stock turbo. Do you think I should pick one up? Or will the stock do its job?

 

If I can skip on the tmic and EBCS, I can go get tuned as the car sits since I have all supporting mods.

 

Lmk what you think? Get tuned as is, then upgrade with the turbo? Or grab a tmic and solenoid before tuning om stock/fuel?

 

I do plan on a 20g later down the road, for now I'm just looking to push the stock turbo a little more in the meantime.

 

There is a cob tuning socal I can go. But I am seeing "not so good" reviews from them. I have however been recommended to another very reputable shop that I have confidence in to do the turning.

Edited November 16, 2015 by 08_GT