outbacksoutback Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 (edited) Hi everyone, new member here! I just picked up a new used outback to replace my old one (this is my 4th subaru), and it has turned into project so I have decided to start a thread for it. Anyways... For reference this is my previous vehicle, a 2000 Outback 5mt all weather package, black interior. purchased with 198k miles, at the time of this post it has 294k, and it driven 130 miles per day round trip for my work commute. BC Racing BR coilovers, modified stromung catback exhaust, amazon UEL, ebay short throw, H6 11.4in front rotors, longblock from a 2001 2.5rs (rebuilt by a Subaru specialty shop). Summer mode: Winter mode: I drove about 2 hours across the state to purchase the new outback on Feb 19th. The car was posted on craigslist for $2500 with 228k miles by the 2nd owner, a nice older lady. She had owned the car for the past 5 years/50k miles and used it to deliver scones for her business. I met her in the morning, gave her asking price, drove the car to Mejier and bought some oil to add, then drove it 130miles straight to work, and 60 miles home after work that day... Here is the car on the drive home the day I bought it: The car pulled VERY HARD during the test drive, but had a pretty decent vibration under load. There were a few small dents in the front driver side fender from the previous owner hitting a massive pot hole, which lead to the front struts being replaced. The rear struts are still shot of course, and the car rides about 2in higher in the front More photos shortly after purchase: Edited March 25, 2020 by outbacksoutback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) I decided to drive the car for a while before tearing into it, to see what it may or may not need... however the car was due for an oil change soon, and I was uncomfortable with it as is. The previous owner had been doing 5k mile intervals of full synthetic oil, and the car was about 4k miles into the oil change when I started driving it... Both outbacks together: Modifications the car had upon purchase: COBB lightweight crank pulley K&N cold air intake Boost/oil pressure gauge COBB access port (found in glove box after purchase) After driving the car for a few days and showing it off to my friends (plus getting stuck in a snowy ditch trying to free up my friends car after he missed a driveway and got stuck) the clutch started to slip during pulls. I plugged in the access port and checked the tune, turns out the nice lady I bought the car from had been driving around on a "Stage 2" tune targeting 17psi while making her scone deliveries... that explains why the car pulled so hard! I loaded the Stage 1 tune targeting 15psi and continued driving the car, no more slip! Bonus points if anyone can name the location: A few more interior pics: After loading the stage 1 tune, I was getting a P0420 code for cat efficiency, which was not a major concern for me. One night driving home from work, the car hesitated during a pull and made a very strange noise. I stupidly did not check the codes and kept driving. The next morning after another 100 miles of driving, I pulled off the freeway on my commute, and suddenly I heard what sounded like rocks in a washing machine from the engine bay. I pulled into a hotel parking lot, checked my codes and had P0011 P0022 codes. At this point I parked the car, went inside and got a hotel room for the next two nights (this was on a Thursday). I made the 3 hour journey to my parents house Friday after work, picking up my other outback along the way. That Saturday morning my dad and I drove 3 hours to the hotel, picked up the car, and trailered it 3 hours home to the garage where we have parked all of our previous Subarus after catastrophic failure Edited March 25, 2020 by outbacksoutback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 The car did drive on and off the trailer with good oil pressure, so my guess was that I lost a turbo. This theory turned out to be correct. There was still a vf40 in the car, shaft was VERY loose and the fins had crashed into the housing, oil all over in the down pipe. Long story short I ordered a bunch of parts, went back to work for a few weeks, now it is March and I am on a temporary layoff from work due to COVID19... So I guess it is time to get to work on the Outback! I purchased a used invidia catless up pipe and a seemingly new VF46 from ebay to start Old turbo/up pipe next to the new turbo/up pipe: Engine out: Pile of parts: The car had a Sachs clutch with a dual mass flywheel in it. I have never seen a dual mass flywheel before and am at a loss for how to get to the flywheel bolts, as they are partially covered?? Also from my understanding the Sachs may be OEM? Regardless, the clutch was in need of replacement... Exedy clutch kit with a SMFW is on the way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Your car will thank you for getting rid of that awful DMFW. Just to note, make sure you didn’t get any turbo in your engine! Might be worth doing an engine flush to be certain there’s nothing still in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 I definitely am planning on cleaning the engine/oil passages as well as I can. This is my first turbo Subaru so there is a little bit of a learning curve. I have seen conflicting info on the oil cooler, some sources say replace after turbo failure, some say it can be cleaned? I welcome any input/advice on the whole process! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 I definitely am planning on cleaning the engine/oil passages as well as I can. This is my first turbo Subaru so there is a little bit of a learning curve. I have seen conflicting info on the oil cooler, some sources say replace after turbo failure, some say it can be cleaned? I welcome any input/advice on the whole process!Read this. You need new parts for anything that touched oil. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D173358&share_tid=173358&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&link_source=app Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Read this. You need new parts for anything that touched oil. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D173358&share_tid=173358&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&link_source=app I have read this, and I do have a new updated 07+ oil pan, windage tray, dipstick tube, and a moroso oil pickup... I understand replacing these parts is the correct procedure, however for parts like the pan and windage tray I feel like it is possible to get them clean enough to reuse? I mean the windage tray is not a complex part... It also appears my car already has the updated pan on it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 I have read this, and I do have a new updated 07+ oil pan, windage tray, dipstick tube, and a moroso oil pickup... I understand replacing these parts is the correct procedure, however for parts like the pan and windage tray I feel like it is possible to get them clean enough to reuse? I mean the windage tray is not a complex part... It also appears my car already has the updated pan on it...Windage tray is easy to clean. Pan isn't. They're are crevices where bearing material likes to hide...until you fill the pan with oil and start the car. Then you're in the same boat again. The post was just to be clear that you replace all oil related parts. In particular, the oil cooler because just can't be cleaned thoroughly enough. But all of your oem parts from partsouq.com if you can. Yes the shipping is expensive but it is extremely fast and still cheaper than what you can find in the USA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 You'll need a Torx T-50+ to get the FW bolts out, using a good impact gun, once you hammer the DMFW back into the correct location, so the Torx will fit in the holes. Remember to replace the oil cooler too. Hint, I bolt the turbo to the up pipe, makes it easier to line up the new turbo inlet hose, new oil return hose and up pipe at the same time. Leave those bolts loose until you have lined up the TB hose, and tmic. You may want to look through my click here link in my sig. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORULZleggy Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 I am just sitting here laughing about an older lady driving it in stage 2 lol, that is great. Bet she was crushing peoples dreams that thought they would get her. Can't wait to see the progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 I definitely am planning on cleaning the engine/oil passages as well as I can. This is my first turbo Subaru so there is a little bit of a learning curve. I have seen conflicting info on the oil cooler, some sources say replace after turbo failure, some say it can be cleaned? I welcome any input/advice on the whole process! Do you have metal in your oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 I pulled the pan and intake today... no doubt everything is dirty Clutch kit also came in today, but I am waiting on the TP50 to come in still. I did manage to turn the flywheel to line up the bolts with the openings. Here is the Sachs DMFW vs the Exedy SMFW Engine on the stand: From what I was told, the timing was last done at 175k miles. It does have a gates belt in decent shape. Accessory belts were also gates, which I already took and put on my other outback. This hose on the passenger valve cover was already off, and looked like it has been for a while. This hose was dry and snapped. Also note the dead animal(?) that was under the intake by the coolant crossover. Pan removed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 More photos: The banjo bolt for the turbo oil feed line did still have the filter in it. Both AVCS banjo bolts did not have the filter however. I decided to call it a day there. Have not pulled the valve covers yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 Be sure to pull the filter from the driver side avcs feed line banjo bolt as well. It's behind the timing cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 (edited) There are only two banjo bolts with filters. Find a good auto machine shop and have then clean that oil pan and valve covers really well. Edited March 27, 2020 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 I put my oil pan and valve covers in the dish washer and it 100% works like magic. What happened to the first motor on the 00’ outback? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 I put my oil pan and valve covers in the dish washer and it 100% works like magic. What happened to the first motor on the 00’ outback? Originally I bought an automatic 2001 2.5rs sedan with blown head gaskets for $400, I sent the longblock from that car out and had it redone ($2300) After driving the rs to college for a few months I decided I wanted a manual wagon, and found the '00 outback on craigslist running and driving for $2100. The outback was way nicer than my rs, so I swapped the rebuilt engine I already had into the outback, and the running engine from the outback into the rs. I wound up selling the rs for $2200ish. The rs had about 185k on it when the engine was rebuilt, and I put roughly 10k on it in that car before it went in the outback, and now has seen roughly 100k more miles. I considered sending the engine from the xt to the same shop but that looks like it will be closer to $4000 for a rebuild... Here is what my $400 2.5rs looked like when I got it in 2016: Next to my 1st Subaru/my brothers 1st Subaru, a 1998 Forester Another one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 My dad came and looked at the engine today. We finally separated the old VF40 and discovered that the bearing did not actually fail, the shaft just broke. Also pulled the valve covers and looked around, not much for metal shavings up there. I swapped the coolant pipe and oil drain onto the VF46, also made new lines for the waste gate actuator. Almost missed it but I did cut the restrictor pill out of the old line from the VF40 and insert it. So the theory is that my glitter in the pan was mostly aluminium from the turbine... New pan/tray/dipstick and a Moroso oil pickup: Started working on replacing the rusty old brakes as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 So the theory is that my glitter in the pan was mostly aluminium from the turbine... The turbine wheel's metal shavings would have gone out the exhaust. The turbine wheel usually doesn't fail like that on its own. It broke for a reason and it was likely due to excessive play in the bearings. 200k miles on the motor and metal in the pan, the motor is likely fubar. A high mile motor like that probably isn't worth risking putting a new turbo, replacing the oil cooler and gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 The turbine wheel's metal shavings would have gone out the exhaust. The turbine wheel usually doesn't fail like that on its own. It broke for a reason and it was likely due to excessive play in the bearings. 200k miles on the motor and metal in the pan, the motor is likely fubar. A high mile motor like that probably isn't worth risking putting a new turbo, replacing the oil cooler and gaskets. Probably not but I am just going to leave the heads on and delete the oil cooler, slap it back in and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) Some more updates on the car: My friend took the oil filter stud off one of his NA ej blocks and mailed it to me for my oil cooler delete I did not think to ask him for the block plug, so I just cut the fitting off of mine and plugged it. Did the same with the water pump. Installed a new windage tray and Moroso oil pickup. In this picture you can also see the oil filter is on the block, no cooler. Had my valve covers hot tanked: Took apart my AVCS units, cleaned them out then re-assembled I removed my BC coils form the old Outback and put my stock struts back on (I did repaint the springs after this pic). The rear coils were a direct swap between cars. In the old outback I notched the floor cover and had access to the dampening adjusters, in the new one I had to install dampening adjuster extenders. Edited October 28, 2020 by outbacksoutback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 Let me understand what you did there in the second photo above. You cut the old 2.5i fitting, cut it and somehow threaded the AN plug into it ? I do a lot of test setup's at work using AN, Compression and Face Seal fittings, most of our products use a MS boss straight thread fittings. I'll be interested in how you think that's going to seal ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 Front coilovers are not a direct swap, so I ordered two front camber plate assemblies from BC racing. I changed the right front out and bolted the coilover to the car, but when I did the left one it would not line up... they sent me the wrong part for the left side (the studs line up with my old camber plates for the 2000 outback). I am waiting to hear back from BC still so I just put the front struts back on for now. looking over the intake while it was off, I noticed the TGVs were very dirty. So I just deleted them with a hacksaw and a file. I replaced the spark plugs, timing belt, and clutch then bolted the engine back into the car. Of course I also cleaned all the oil feed lines/banjo bolts/and removed banjo bolt filters. Here is how it sat: I did not take pictures yet, but the turbo and down pipe are bolted into the car now as well. I'm waiting on a few small parts, but I should have it back together fairly soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbacksoutback Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 Let me understand what you did there in the second photo above. You cut the old 2.5i fitting, cut it and somehow threaded the AN plug into it ? I do a lot of test setup's at work using AN, Compression and Face Seal fittings, most of our products use a MS boss straight thread fittings. I'll be interested in how you think that's going to seal ? I tapped the thread by hand and put teflon tape on the plug, but yeah I did expect to get roasted for that haha. Proper way to delete it would be use the NA plug and a NA water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 You may want to gut and plug the tgvs. The sensor end where the shaft comes thru can leak. I made plugs out of cut down uppipe studs, tapped the tgv ends, ground a slot into the end of the stud with a dremel, screwed them in with a flat head and sealed with jb weld. Your tuner will remove trouble codes resulting from the delete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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