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1993 Legacy Wagon RHD Build Thread


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1993 Subaru Legacy Wagon. Original RHD Postal Wagon

 

- Motor:

 

- EJ22 Dual Port (Pulled out Ej20k, building a new turbo motor)

 

 

- Drivetrain:

 

- 5spd Manual Conversion (Thanks Rouf!)

- JDM WRX Turbo Crossmember (Thanks to Jspec in Richmond, VA, Paul who picked it up, Alex who met up with Pau,l then brought to my garage!!)

- JDM WRX Steering Rack (Thanks to Jspec in Richmond, VA^^^)

- Custom Steering Knuckle (Thanks to my friend for taking time away from making grenades to make this for me!)

- Exedy OEM Clutch & Flywheel

- Kartboy Shifter Bushings

- Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

- GC8 WRX Master Cylinder

- Chase Bays custom RHD specific clutch line (Thanks to Chase and Johnathan at Chase Bays)

 

 

- Exterior:

 

- Full Respray including bay and jambs (NH-0 Championship White) Paint by Herlihy Fabrication in Winchester, VA

- Ausdm Power Folding Mirrors

- Ausdm Grill (Thanks Jake Duck!)

- Ausdm rear tailgate garnish (Thanks John Wayryen!)

- Ausdm tail lights (Thanks John Wayryen!)

- Fresh OEM molding all around

- Refinished window molding sourced from parts car! (Thanks Jim Kelly!)

 

- Interior:

 

- JDM Momo Steering Wheel from 93 Legacy

- Door cards dyed to match steering wheel

- Black Alcantara wrapped armrest by @mikeyseats

 

- Suspension:

 

- Cheap Coilovers (To go air or nice coils?)

- GC8 STI Carbon front strut tower bar (Thanks to JEI in Manassas, VA)

 

- Wheels:

 

- Rays TE37 16x8"

- Advan RG 17x7.5" +48 (Thanks to the most @RadBlackDad I know)

- Pirelli Dragon 215/45/zr17

 

- Brakes:

 

- 2005 Legacy GT Calipers & Rotors (Thanks Shawn!)

 

 

STILL NEED! PLEASE HELP!

 

- Rear Wagon Spoiler (OEM or Aftermarket)

- Front Lip (OEM or Aftermarket)

 

PICTURES!

 

vQWjw0yh.jpg

 

CwC13nQh.jpg

 

PVMMi8bh.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/wiHoqvJh.jpg

 

NqD9Fe8h.jpg

 

xZs1lHsh.jpg

 

8I4wwT0h.jpg

 

9ALLoOCh.jpg

 

BEFORE:

 

http://i.imgur.com/IrlDFZsl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/VHL04pBl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/AYa5JJJl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1NLaDZ7l.jpg

 

Progress:

 

http://i.imgur.com/E6Evs66l.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/RmGsrEIl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/38BeBuVl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/KETNs8yl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/i3cwpuXl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/SVcYGD8l.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/OQwQtdrl.jpg

Edited by Sublimejoe
Freshen up
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Reserved for picture dumping!

 

Lots of OEM nuts and bolts:

http://i.imgur.com/aP12ah9h.jpg

 

JDM WRX crossmember and steering rack:

http://i.imgur.com/IimZ5DFh.jpg

 

Clean window molding & power folding mirror:

http://i.imgur.com/jTwL5vth.jpg

 

Messy Interior after putting on fresh door cards:

http://i.imgur.com/ok5YN9ah.jpg

 

AUSDM tails and garnish. Bonus pic of my girlfriend looking so stoked:

http://i.imgur.com/o6JkE1Uh.jpg

 

Removed rear wiper. Need plug still:

http://i.imgur.com/SIct8fvh.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/2WR73qJ.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/tbKshYv.png

 

http://i.imgur.com/HVnMekJh.jpg

Edited by Sublimejoe
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Nice looking forward to seeing the end results. Your Obxt inspired me to get one and its very hard to find a legacy gt wagon manual black. Glad I bought my xt

 

Awesome, thank you so much! I am so excited to get started on the 1st gen, I am having a hard time even being inside right now haha.

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When I bought this car the guy told me that the motor was knocking "really bad," and would need to be replaced. When I started it up to drive home it was very loud, but quieted down to this point after just a few minutes:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHUrc3ksvfE]93 Subaru Legacy running smooth - YouTube[/ame]

 

However, when I started it this morning it was super loud again and didn't quiet down much after warming up. Here is a video of how it sounded this morning:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mCZIaLJf8]93 Subaru Legacy Click Clackin' - YouTube[/ame]

 

I happened to be near my parents house so I took it by there for my dad to check out. He said it sounds to him like an issue with the lifters on the right side of the motor, with some slight noise coming from the timing cover.

 

Anyone want to offer some insight? The car only has 109k miles, oil is clean.

Edited by Sublimejoe
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Sounds like piston slap or rod knock to me. Lifter tick isn't that loud unless your video is slowed down. You can pull the rocker assembly off and see if any of the HLAs are collapsed. The beauty of HLAs is they are easy to bleed and even easier to replace.

 

Here is what lifter tick sounds like:http://m.youtube.com/watch?context=C4a4e96bADvjVQa1PpcFONCT8uNv49EWAsnY5lrm7BtuwiY9VoDt4%3D&v=VckpQAChYs0

 

Piston slap isn't anything to immediately worry about.

 

Nice XT BTW.

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Thank you! In my past experience, once a rod started knocking it basically got worse and worse until failure, I've never experienced it coming and going as it seems to be doing on this motor. Is it more common for piston slap to come and go?
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Piston slap goes away mostly once the engine warms up. Rod knock gets worse as the engine warms up cuz the oil loses some viscosity. Lifter tick is a sharper, quieter noise and unlike piston slap or rod knock, you can hear it all the way through the rpm range.

 

That sounds about right. I will replace the lifters and hope that all is well.

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Updates:

 

Ordered two ball joints, and two control arm bushings. It looks like the control arm has two bushings, but I can't find any information on the other ones. I will order the one front axle that I need tonight at some point and hopefully get everything in and good to go this weekend.

 

Also ordered my vanity plates hahaha

 

http://i.imgur.com/zPWX6dwl.jpg

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No, they are HLAs. Really easy to replace and not adjustable. I posted the FSM procedure for removal and replacement here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/1998-legacy-2-2l-timing-jumped-engine-gone-help-replacement-192029p3.html

 

Ah, thanks! I need to pull the valve covers off too. Will I be able to tell if one is failing/failed by visual inspection? Also, do I need to raise/lower the motor off the mounts to get to the heads or can I do it while the motor is in the car?

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Here are some pics of what they look like: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-clicking-fix-replace-kill-firei-191227.html

 

If it is totally collapsed it is easy to spot. Some of them might also be slightly collapsed but can be bled. Although I think it is best just to replace the worn out ones so you don't have to deal with them for a long time. I didn't replace all of mine though. They aren't too expensive $6-8.

 

They are really easy to get at and you don't need to mess with the motor mounts at all. Just flip open the plastic guard flaps underneath the heads and you will have plenty of room to work. Jack stands help too of course.

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Here are some pics of what they look like: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-clicking-fix-replace-kill-firei-191227.html

 

If it is totally collapsed it is easy to spot. Some of them might also be slightly collapsed but can be bled. Although I think it is best just to replace the worn out ones so you don't have to deal with them for a long time. I didn't replace all of mine though. They aren't too expensive $6-8.

 

They are really easy to get at and you don't need to mess with the motor mounts at all. Just flip open the plastic guard flaps underneath the heads and you will have plenty of room to work. Jack stands help too of course.

 

Awesome, thanks so much! I actually found a full set of them on eBay brand new for $30, so I will just replace them all. I need to take off the valve cover on the other side anyway to replace the gaskets, so I may as well do those too.

 

Other Updates:

 

Ordered - Plugs, Wires, Lifters, Front Fender

Edited by Sublimejoe
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Here you go: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/tech.html

 

It's legacy777 from bbslegacycentral's personal website.

 

Awesome resource, thanks so much!

 

When I jack up the rear of the car I can move the wheel in and out a bit. It looks like I need a few bushings here:

 

http://i.imgur.com/Y6h1Mx6h.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/H8K7DwSl.png

 

After looking at this diagram I have determined that the part I need is number 7 for the front lateral link bushing. Is that correct?

 

What confuses me is that in my photo there seems to be a bushing on the knuckle, number 5 in the above diagram, but no bushing is listed. Do I have to buy the whole knuckle to replace that bushing?

Edited by Sublimejoe
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