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CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread


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Yup got them safe and sound, I'm trying to use BC's I got but the front perches are STUCK, so need to get them unstuck first. Then if I don't like how BC's ride I'll try out the Spec B Bilsteins. I'm not sure I care for a lower car, so I probably will just run Bilsteins for more comfort, but I'm curious how much Cd I can reduce by lowering the car.

 

Bilsteins are much better then regular Koni yellows, much bigger shock tubes, monotube, etc. Koni only gets good when you go $$$ with 8611's.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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With 102k miles on the clock I wasn't sure if I could trust that the timing belt was actually replaced. Plus I wanted to replace the cam seals (driver side seals were leaking) and I wanted to dig out the driver head banjo filter. Due to image count restrictions and easier linking I'm splitting the install into a few posts.

 

Pictured Gates Timing Belt Kit TCK328, with OEM Water pump, thermostat, gasket and cam seals.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261100&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

Remove the radiator and fans, you will drain the coolant anyway to replace the water pump. I was stubborn and loosened the crank bolt with everything still in place. To loosen the crank bolt simply put the car in 5th, make sure all 4 wheels are on the ground and let the clutch do the crank holding.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261101&stc=1&d=1516581068

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261102&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

Plastic covers removed:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261103&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

Attach the crank pulley and install the bolt, put the car in neutral and rotate the crank until the crank timing mark aligns with the block.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261104&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

After that it's safe to remove the belt, simply undo the auto tensioner and the belt will be easy to remove. Make sure to remove the belt guide above the crank and loosen up the belt guides on the back plastic cover.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261105&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

Now it's a good time to install a new water pump. Install the new idlers after that, all idlers are torqued at 28.9 ft-lbs.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261106&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

Install the auto tensioner but do not pull the grenade pin yet! Start routing the belt, Gates kit has a dotted line for the crank.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261107&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

You will need to rotate the driver side exhaust and intake cams to get them aligned. Make sure you rotate the exhaust cam counter clockwise and intake cam clockwise only! Here are some exerts from the FSM to help you along:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261113&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

I used tools to hold the cams in place while I routed the belt.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261108&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

Verify your cam, belt and plastic timing marks!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261114&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

Install the lower idler which will tension the belt a good bit. At this point it's safe to pull the auto tensioner's grenade pin. After you do so rotate the crank clockwise a few cycles to get the auto tension to extend out.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261109&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

Once you verified all is well with hand cranking the engine, use the gates spacer tool to make sure the chain guide is distanced far enough from the belt to avoid premature wear!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261110&stc=1&d=1516581068

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261111&stc=1&d=1516581068

 

But the timing covers back on and reinstall the crank pulley along with the belts. Reinstall the radiator and burp the system and you are done!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261112&stc=1&d=1516581068

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Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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It's always a good idea to replace the water pump with the timing belt while you are in there. Water pumps generally last around 130k miles, so to avoid the timing belt removal an extra time do it with the belt replacement! It's also a good idea to use the OEM water pump, aftermarket ones seem to not last.

 

Everything needed:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261090&stc=1&d=1516580616

 

Part Numbers:

Water Pump - 21111AA026 (cast impeller - better flowing) or 21111AA240 (stamped impeller)

Water Pump Gasket - 2114AA051

Thermostat - 21200AA072

Thermostat Gasket - 21236AA010

 

Old water pump ready to be removed

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261091&stc=1&d=1516580616

 

Disconnect the coolant crosspipe

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261092&stc=1&d=1516580616

 

And two other hoses

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261093&stc=1&d=1516580616

 

Two water pumps side by side

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261094&stc=1&d=1516580616

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261095&stc=1&d=1516580616

 

Cast impeller design, I thought this was the newer design, but just found out that it's actually the older part number. But according to this article, cast impeller outflows the stamped one.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261096&stc=1&d=1516580616

 

Proper thermostat position

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261097&stc=1&d=1516580616

 

Don't forget to reuse the rubber gasket that goes between the block and the pump

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261098&stc=1&d=1516580616

 

Bolt everything up and your good to go

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261099&stc=1&d=1516580616

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Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Man I just realized that I bought the older 02-04 WRX water pump (cast impeller). Car seems to be working fine though, from what I saw it's just not as efficient at flowing coolant due to impeller size. Which might not be an issue since I plan on going all aluminum radiator.

 

Tomorrow will post the dreaded cam sprocket removal and cam seal install...

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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My how to writeup can be found here: How To Replace Crank & Cam Seals

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256548&stc=1&d=1507642960

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256563&stc=1&d=1507642960

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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While your doing the timing belt and cam seal replacement, it is a really good idea to pull the driver head banjo filters!

 

Here is a pic of how close the Banjo bolt is to the timing cover, there is simply not enough room to remove it on car without damaging the timing cover. If you can grind the hump off you might not need to remove the whole timing cover. I wanted to replace my cam seals with the timing belt so timing cover had to come off anyway.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253925&stc=1&d=1502332213

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253927&stc=1&d=1502332213

 

How To Guide for removing the driverside banjo filter and all other banjo filters can be found here: How to Remove All Banjo Filters

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Once again, thanks for the great pictures. I'm sure this thread will help others.

 

People should bookmark this thread, you know, add to favorites.

 

Did you see the picture in my timing belt thread where I used a C clamp, block of wood and a Ford wrench to hold the intake gear at TDC ? I'd add it but I'm not at my home PC. It's in my photobucket account.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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You can also subscribe to threads, I do it all of the threads I want to "bookmark", this way you can log in from any device, go to the forum and bam you have all of your links there.

 

No sir I didn't see the clamp route, I personally didn't mind destroying the belt thus just used pliers. Do post it up for others to see though :).

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Subaru does have special cam tools, but they are very costly and not needed if you have timing belt you don't need anymore.

 

These tools may be a good alternative. I haven't used them yet, but I will buy some when I need to. Pictured below is just one of the useful-looking tools they make.

 

http://www.company23.com/subaru

 

http://www.company23.com/image/cache/data/subaru/500/500-iso-228x228.jpg

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Did I just see a metal cam gear!?!?!? Anyone know the part number, I would love to replace the exhaust plastic cam gears with these!

 

http://www.company23.com/image/cache/data/subaru/500/500-wow-400x400.jpg

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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subscribe, I haven't tryed that yet. I thought there used to be a button for it ? I don't see it here at work.

 

I know almost 13,000 post....what a newbie...:)

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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subscribe, I haven't tryed that yet. I thought there used to be a button for it ? I don't see it here at work.

 

I know almost 13,000 post....what a newbie...:)

 

Just in case you are serious...at the top of each thread page, there is a "thread tools" drop-down button, the subscribe link is there.

 

Great write-up here. Thank you so much for putting the time in to make this walk-through!

I like to cook my pets and my family.

 

Use commas. Don't be a psycho.

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Just in case you are serious...at the top of each thread page, there is a "thread tools" drop-down button, the subscribe link is there.

 

Great write-up here. Thank you so much for putting the time in to make this walk-through!

 

Funny, while editing my sig, I noticed a bunch of threads next to the menu. It's all these subscribed threads, I found this one in that list.

 

Yea. I'm not to good with these computer things. :spin:

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 3 weeks later...

With the warm weather here, I wanted to play more with AVCS. Previous best highway MPG was 26.9mpg with this tune plus Closed loop to Open Delay disabled.

 

Testing map (don't run this permanently):

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261088&stc=1&d=1516580236

 

Compare that to stock map:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261087&stc=1&d=1516580236

 

Update: Here is my final map for stock application, this should be safe to run on stock downpipe/intake car (I made this map with catless uppipe).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261089&stc=1&d=1516580236

 

 

This increased the gas mileage to 28.1mpg with AC running full blast! Please note this is actual MPG (not gauge) done by calculating miles driven divided by gallons filled up. I also account for speedometer inaccuracies (mine is off by -1.5%). I'm surprised it's this high with closed loop to open loop disabled, usually that will lead to worse gas mileage because you hit rich AFR's instantly instead of having a buffer of leaness when you add throttle.

05LGTStockAVCS.png.c1ce9c6457089db50217bb39f8cf25d6.png

AVCS15.png.b075e952a89e392a6c7a0c189359f53b.png

AVCS15v11.PNG.6a08afcd43379004f427744b054e3b7c.PNG

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Finally got a chance to disable the annoying daytime running lights that Subaru loves to put on all cars.

 

Thanks to this thread, took a whole whipping 5 minutes to disable them.

 

Remove the driver side upper panel

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261082&stc=1&d=1516579928

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261083&stc=1&d=1516579928

 

There is a box in the back left corner, has a green sticker that says DRL on it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261084&stc=1&d=1516579928

 

Simply unplug the white plug and you are all set.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261085&stc=1&d=1516579928

 

Now you can enjoy much longer light bulb lifespan!

 

Random picture of the car from today

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261086&stc=1&d=1516579928

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Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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When you lower your hand break your main projector bulbs kick on, while your driving during the day your projectors (low beams) are always on. Taking that plug out makes the projectors stay off until you turn them on with the regular headlight switch.

 

Try it out one of these nights, keep the headlights off in a parking lot and lower & raise your handbreak and you will see :).

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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My stock mirror was starting starting to fail, I saw this as a perfect opportunity to upgrade to a Homelink mirror. This is a very simple upgrade if you find the mirror with the same mounting, for me an 08 STI mirror (Will try to get part number) worked wonderfully.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220944&stc=1&d=1449587271

 

 

Once removed it revealed the mount, Subaru has a bunch of different mounts, hopefully the 08 STI mirror I got fits.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220945&stc=1&d=1449587271

 

Two mirrors side by side

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220946&stc=1&d=1449587288

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220947&stc=1&d=1449587288

 

Once I removed the adapter that the STI mirror came with, underneath was the same mount!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220948&stc=1&d=1449587315

 

Bolted right up

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220949&stc=1&d=1449587315

 

Next was needing to replace the connector since they are different.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220950&stc=1&d=1449587353

 

It's the plug with green, blue and black wires

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220951&stc=1&d=1449587353

 

New wire was $15 at the dealership (cheaper then people's custom made ones on ebay). Part number: H501SAG030

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220952&stc=1&d=1449587375

 

Plug it up and try it out

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220953&stc=1&d=1449587375

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220954&stc=1&d=1449587464

 

 

After that I had to set the zone to my location and force it into Config mode (press and hold the button for 9 seconds), then drive a car in a 3 circles.

For more instructions see: http://www.scoobymods.com/showpost.php?p=33805&postcount=2

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Got a JDM HVAC dual climate control module (Part number H6217AG911) by itself fairly cheap. This allows you to replace the stock USDM Radio & HVAC combo, which gives you two din slots for radio and pocket or gauges (what I plan on doing with the new space).

spacer.png

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=261063&stc=1

 

First take out the stock radio, no more ghetto radio under the HVAC!

attachment.php?attachmentid=261064&stc=1

attachment.php?attachmentid=261065&stc=1

 

There are three 4 total plugs that plug into the stock radio, find the one that fits into the JDM HVAC.

attachment.php?attachmentid=261066&stc=1

 

Gotta add pins to it (or you can buy the ae64 i88 Adapter

attachment.php?attachmentid=261067&stc=1

attachment.php?attachmentid=261068&stc=1

 

Needs to splice it into the radio harness, since I made a forward harness for my previous setup this was a breeze

attachment.php?attachmentid=261069&stc=1

 

JDM HVAC plops perfectly into the stock radio brackets, I used bolts from the Scosche kit to bolt it up.

attachment.php?attachmentid=261070&stc=1

 

Test it and make sure all operates

attachment.php?attachmentid=261071&stc=1

 

I used Scosche SU2025B for this part. As you can see this kit is meant for manual climate control Legacy's, doesn't fit at all.

attachment.php?attachmentid=261072&stc=1

attachment.php?attachmentid=261081&stc=1

Now the fun part, making it fit!

attachment.php?attachmentid=261073&stc=1

attachment.php?attachmentid=261074&stc=1


The hazard switch bolts right up in the stock location.

attachment.php?attachmentid=261075&stc=1

attachment.php?attachmentid=261076&stc=1


Had to move the radio back up since there wasn't enough clearance to open the face place on the bottom din.

attachment.php?attachmentid=261077&stc=1


The Scosche kit bolts into the stock back bracket bolts, this keeps it pretty securely in place.

attachment.php?attachmentid=261078&stc=1


Installed a din pocket until I get all of the gauges, fitment could use some work on the driver side faux wood trim. The JDM HVAC is slightly off to the left which causes the wood trim not to fit in place easily.

attachment.php?attachmentid=261079&stc=1

attachment.php?attachmentid=261080&stc=1

For now all done and happy with the results! All of this ran me up around $250, better then $370 for full JDM kit.

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05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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