EnduringGuerila's '05 OBXT Build

I have put this turbo in and taken it back out way too many times. Partially because of the downpipe not fitting due to turbo waste gate size/location and partially because the stock intake is ripped and floppy as hell and didn't want to go over the turbo inlet.

 

BNR writeup on the bypass/feed line

 

 

Parts list:

• $865 - BNR EVO3 16g Turbo
  
• __$8 - Stock Subaru oil filter
  
• _$32 - Turbosmart Billet Turbo Oil Feed Filters TS-0804-1002 (Summit Racing)
  
• _$18 - Oil Filter Pressure Plate (ebay)
  
• _$34 - Oil Feed Line #4 (-4 AN) - SS Braid, 1ft (ATP Turbo) [i somehow lost the first one, $40 mysteriously vanished]
  
• _$34 - Oil Feed Line #4 (-4 AN) - SS Braid, 3ft (ATP Turbo)
  
• _$10 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings 670410 (Summit Racing)
  
• __$4 - Russell AN to NPT Adapter Fittings 660420 (Summit Racing)
  
• __$7 - Goodridge Crush Washers 44516-10 (Summit Racing)
  

 

 

New oil filter with adapter plate and turbo oil line stuff

The orientation of the inline filter doesn't seem to matter. The filter itself is serviceable and taking it apart showed both halves being nearly identical.

 

This is all of the oil feed line parts minus one of the missing braided hoses:

 

 

 

Here is the line put together. The shorter cable on the left was put on top by the turbo but I might reverse these so it's easier to get to the filter without taking off the intercooler...

 

Put Liquid Teflon / thread sealant on all the feed line connections:

 

Here is the top of the feed line going into the turbo:

 

Here is the routing I chose for the feed line avoiding the uppipe and as far from the down pipe as possible without drooping to the ground or being squishable if the car bottoms out.

 

 

At the top left is the exhaust manifold. The orientation of the pressure plate is slightly limited and this was the position I chose. I also put thread sealant on the two unused threaded plugs and screwed them in as far as I could.

 

 

Sorry I didn't document the turbo install part very well. Might have more pics to add later

Edited September 21, 2020 by EnduringGuerila

Exhaust Install

 

 

(note: I wish I could go back and use either the invidia or Cobb catted downpipe instead of GrimmSpeed. The fitment with the turbo was annoying and the stock heat shield doesn't fit at all. I also just noticed that the GS DP has the cat AFTER the second O2 sensor.)

 

 

Exhaust Parts:

 

• _$485 - GrimmSpeed Catted Downpipe (The stock downpipe is one of the biggest stock bottlenecks)
  
• _$157 - Invidia Catless Uppipe (only 2005 and 2006 OBXTs/LGTs have a catted uppipe)
  
  
• $1133 - AVO Catback 3" exhaust (This may have been a mistake, not cheap and stock isn't that limiting)
  
• __$30 - Nuts Bolts and Washers from Ace (The AVO pipes came with new bolts and all but I was short 3 bolts and 5 nuts in the end. Think the GS DP and BNR turbo didn't come with any)
  

 

 

As mentioned up here, I had to trim the downpipe from GrimmSpeed.

 

The downpipe fit up to the stock turbo just fine but it doesn't play so nicely with the BNR 16g. I tried to trim off as little as possible so I kept test fitting the DP with black marker on it to see where it rubbed. Got it to sit flush, then couldn't fully open the bypass so a tad more cutting. It's not 'pretty' but I didn't want to take any more material off just to make it look nice.

 

Here's the final shape.

 

 

 

 

AVO install:

The muffler does barely clear the bumper without any modding but there is a lot of thin unsupported plastic so I'll likely trim around it to give it even more clearance.

 

(fingers are fully extended behind the plastic)

 

If I let the unattached muffler sag on the hangers, this is how close it gets to the bumper:

 

This is about where I think it will sit when fully mounted:

Edited September 21, 2020 by EnduringGuerila

Reserved for Cobb Drive train Shifter Install

 

Videos:

 

The Cobb Drivetrain parts:

 

Stock shifter:

 

 

At the back of the transmission, above the exhaust (which I already had off). Get this heat shield out of the way.

 

 

My shifter linkage felt pretty stiff so I didn't replace the joint. Might change my mind and do this before I put the exhaust back up and this becomes more annoying to get to.

Edited February 27, 2020 by EnduringGuerila

She's coming along, surely. Progress is always fun to make. Keep it coming!

Hey guys, I'm new here, and I'm so glad I found this thread, holy smokes! I recently picked up an 05 OBXT 5AT and my turbo went out shortly after. @ 220k, I probably should have seen that coming

Anyways, I'm going to be doing almost everything that you are, aside from brakes/shifter. I plan on using an evo 3 16g, catted dp, maybe an uppipe, intake and full exhaust. I've pulled the turbo and downpipe already, and am just trying to do as much research as I can. its nice to see all the parts that i was already researching from BNR, they look like quality parts. my old oil lines are pretty crusty

I'll be following this thread for sure, and any tips are GREATLY appreciated!!

Hey guys, I'm new here, and I'm so glad I found this thread, holy smokes! I recently picked up an 05 OBXT 5AT and my turbo went out shortly after. @ 220k, I probably should have seen that coming

Anyways, I'm going to be doing almost everything that you are, aside from brakes/shifter. I plan on using an evo 3 16g, catted dp, maybe an uppipe, intake and full exhaust. I've pulled the turbo and downpipe already, and am just trying to do as much research as I can. its nice to see all the parts that i was already researching from BNR, they look like quality parts. my old oil lines are pretty crusty

I'll be following this thread for sure, and any tips are GREATLY appreciated!!

 

 

Annoyingly enough, I misplaced one of the new dedicated oil lines for the turbo and still haven't found it. I think I have to give up on finding it and order a new one....

 

 

Tips:

 

-The stock exhaust from cat back isn't that restrictive and you might want to wait on that. I wish I had, 'wasted' good money for little to no performance gains.

 

-Inspect your old turbo for missing metal bits that might have gone into your engine!

-be careful with the sunroof, I opened mine and it took a while to get it closed. had to remove the glass to 'fix' part of the tracks. Mine will likely fail again next time i open it.

 

 

 

I don't have many real tips yet but I'm sure things will come up once I get around to finishing the car!

Quick update:

 

I got a little sidetracked and didn't work on the car much.

 

Somehow I lost one of the new oil feed lines for the turbo and still can't find it so I just ordered another, $40 wasted.

 

I also just ordered 3 new exhaust gaskets:

Total

$ 35.27

P/N Quantity Price EA Description

14038AA000 1 $ 13.11 Exhaust Manifold Gasket

44011FA020 1 $ 7.74 Catalytic Converter Gasket, Gasket Exhaust Joint, Gasket for Catalytic Converter System

44022AA170 1 $ 11.73 Catalytic Converter Gasket (Outlet), Gasket Exhaust Joint, Gasket for Catalytic Converter System

 

 

 

I also installed new lights so I can actually see what the hell I'm doing in the garage without constantly wearing a headlight:

More to come soon!

Edited June 17, 2020 by EnduringGuerila

Finally changed the transmission and rear diff gear oil. I assumed it hasn't been changed in quite a while so I bought a cheap full synthetic 75w-90 ($38), plan on running that for a very short time, then change it all again to the Motul Gear 300 75W-90 ($92).

 

 

Had to buy a T70 socket to drain the transmission oil.

 

 

Welp, I started the debadging!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Should I remove these too?

 

 

I am planning on designing and 3d printing something to cover the Subaru logos. Thinking a simple two color turbo design could look cool.

Thoughts on these designs I found online?

 

1.

 

2.

 

3.

 

3. painted the same color as the brake calipers? (use some imagination)

 

Yea, that might be too much burnt red/orange? idk.

Edited July 7, 2020 by EnduringGuerila

Another update: I'm buying another house and will be moving!

 

I am aiming to have the car driveable before closing (8/11/20 at the latest) but likely won't do the tune before then. We'll see how much I can get done between packing and working.

Very nice! Once you have the T70, you have it. It's not going anywhere. I recently did my front diff, and transmission, filling the front with Motul 300, and the trans with a combination of Motul 300 & Redline Lightweight Shockproof. Great stuff. Immediate difference in feel when shifting. Very happy with their products.

 

Personally, I like the OEM blue Subaru logos that come on our car. I wouldn't place a cover with a turbo image over them. At least not the designs you've found. If you do cover it up, make a design of your own, or put something more personal on the cover. A name you may have given the car, secondary license plate/vanity plate ideas, you're own spin on a "Subaru" logo.

 

Congrats on the house!

Very nice! Once you have the T70, you have it. It's not going anywhere. I recently did my front diff, and transmission, filling the front with Motul 300, and the trans with a combination of Motul 300 & Redline Lightweight Shockproof. Great stuff. Immediate difference in feel when shifting. Very happy with their products.

 

Personally, I like the OEM blue Subaru logos that come on our car. I wouldn't place a cover with a turbo image over them. At least not the designs you've found. If you do cover it up, make a design of your own, or put something more personal on the cover. A name you may have given the car, secondary license plate/vanity plate ideas, you're own spin on a "Subaru" logo.

 

Congrats on the house!

 

Yea, I usually try to buy stuff like the T70 in a set so I have more of a variety for future projects. I highly recommend everyone change their copper washers when doing the trans. I ordered that as a variety pack too, since after changing the fluid, the trans is now leaking from the drain hole.

 

 

For the Subaru emblems, I planned on drawing something myself in the cad software, the images were just for ideas. I gave it some more thought and I agree with you that it should be more personalized than just a cool looking design. That is, if I do it at all. If I paint the car, I'll probably just fill that in and paint over it so there is no emblem at all. If not, then I'll likely do a gorilla as I have been going by 'EnduringGuerila' since 2006 (Xbox live gamertag, had 15 char limit). Shit, I'm 28 so that's exactly half my life...

 

I then thought I could make custom designs for other Subaru owners if they want to buy them. Wouldn't be too hard once I've created the base template that fits the cars body impressions.

Edited July 8, 2020 by EnduringGuerila

I went to the dealer and bought like 10 copper crush washers for the oil pan, diffs and trans since it's usually in the middle of the job that I remember I need one. Although I'm going to have to scoop up a Fumoto quick drain valve soon.

 

Custom designs would be appealing. You could even go as far as making a mold of the template and doing custom carbon fiber emblems. Food for thought.

Love your thread. I’m in a similar situation. I just picked up an 06 OBXT with a blown turbo and 170k miles with a 5spd so I’m going to be watching your thread closely.

How did your move go? Did the car running before hand?

How did your move go? Did the car running before hand?

Moving

is hell, I'm still not done moving all my stuff. It's mainly just the car and my tools left behind. Aiming to at least get it running enough to drive here so I can work out of the new, much larger garage!

Quick update,

I got the turbo in, the stock oil line capped off, trimmed the GS Downpipe to fit the new turbo.

 

Still need to run the new oil feed line with dedicated oil filter

mount the exhaust, intercooler, etc.

Then it should be drivable enough to get it to the new house! That's where all the new fun begins.

 

 

I decided I'm just going to go ahead and do a new clutch, flywheel, fuel pump, injectors, clutch damper delete (if this car has a damper), new intake tube (the stock one that connects the Cobb intake to the turbo is falling apart!), and more...

 

 

See you next time on:

Dreams/Plans Of A Guy That Has Been Making Insanely Slow Progress On His Subaru

(new title of this build)

I finally got it buttoned up enough to drive it to the new house!

I got to hear the new exhaust (think it has a slight leak by the downpipe)

It's louder than I wanted but not too bad. Has quite a nice tone to it. I'll record a video when I move it to the other garage bay to start working on it again.

 

I bought a 2011 KLR650 on Friday for only $1600 and I'm going to be cleaning that up for resale for the next week or so. Hoping to get $3000 or more for it.

 

 

 

I made updates to this turbo oil feed post but that's about all I documented on the changes.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5947055&postcount=26

scoop up a Fumoto quick drain valve soon..

 

Have you used those before? I've seen them but I'm kind of on the fence. I know they make an extra little lock collar you can get but I'm still a little nervous about them.

Have you used those before? I've seen them but I'm kind of on the fence. I know they make an extra little lock collar you can get but I'm still a little nervous about them.

 

 

I have one. I didn't do the notch some people do. I got the long nipple one. I've hit the skid plate hard enough that I have a flat spot on the nipple and I actually have to get new hardware as I scraped the end of the bolt in a way the skid plate doesn't come off properly.

 

Never had a leak from it. 17k miles on it since November. I do have the little lock collar on it and a primitive racing skid plate.

 

 

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I bought one of those valves. It leaked. I know a lot of people love them but I’ll stick with a standard bolt. I have the plastic lock washer if someone wants it.

Mine hasn't leaked but I seem to be incompetent at putting on the oil filter. They always leak a little bit and I tighten them after a few days (even though I literally couldn't tighten more) and then I can never get them off.

 

 

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I bought one of those valves. It leaked. I know a lot of people love them but I’ll stick with a standard bolt. I have the plastic lock washer if someone wants it.

I use an oem crush washer with them a d they've never leaked. I believe the crush washer is the reason why. I have one on both cars.

Mine hasn't leaked but I seem to be incompetent at putting on the oil filter. They always leak a little bit and I tighten them after a few days (even though I literally couldn't tighten more) and then I can never get them off.

 

 

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Do you out a thin film of oil on the oil filter gasket when installing? I do that and 3/4 after it touches surface and none leak. Even the Wix/Napa filters that everyone says leak. Maybe I'm lucky?

Mine leaked from the center of the valve itself not at the oil pan. It would never fully "shut off"

Yea pre fill and then lube the ring. I use the oe blue filters and it says to do 7/8 turn after contact so that's what I do or pretty nearly. I've actually wondered if it's too tight.

 

I had to use a screwdriver one time jammed through the filter to get it off. That one was crazy.

 

 

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