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Rusted Recall Brake Line Failed


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Subaru should find another way to change that brakes easier, this will be a big risk for those who owns it more than 10years as the brake issue might happen anytime. Rustproofing the joint is a joke anyone of us can do that.
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I went trough the same way on cutting the tube from the top but instead of putting both pipes on the same route I went on the seats for the driver side making a short cut and put it in. Less bending and frustration LOL

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I will put a tie wrap for less vibration but it doesn’t need anyways the Molding of the seats will lessen the vibration.

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I went trough the same way on cutting the tube from the top but instead of putting both pipes on the same route I went on the seats for the driver side making a short cut and put it in. Less bending and frustration LOL

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180427/a8f498756afb64714c2af2d16cddff16.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180427/1644acb70bb046cf59a981b84b665d6b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180427/ab144de0d8be9c2e99c7d1c5c1d6282f.jpg

I will put a tie wrap for less vibration but it doesn’t need anyways the Molding of the seats will lessen the vibration.

 

You magnificent bastard, if I have to replace my driver side line I'm so gonna do this too. Screw removing the fuel tank and digging the stock line out, just snip snip and done.

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I went trough the same way on cutting the tube from the top but instead of putting both pipes on the same route I went on the seats for the driver side making a short cut and put it in. Less bending and frustration LOL

 

That looks extremely close to what I did on my 94. It had the lines routed the same as on the 4th gen. I connected in the same place but ran the line behind the rear sub frame. I like the idea of running it inside.

 

Definitely wouldn't bother dropping the tank personally.

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I’m wrapping it up everything to finish the brake lines, unfortunately this thing stops me due to corrosion.

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Got the new brake line hose from NAPA as replacement.

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But I’m not using this for long cause it is made in China. I want to know if the lines use for GT is the same with the limited model planning to get the stainless version.

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I saw a full set for GT $149 for the SS version brand is Techna-Fit. Rubber for the full set will cost me $132.

 

http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Brake_Lines

 

Another post from GTR forums that sums it up well:

There's a reason Ferrari's use rubber brake lines.

 

Imagine a grain of sand.

 

Now imagine a grain of sand on the outside of a rubber line. Harmless.

 

Imagine a grain of sand on a braided stainless steel line. Now imagine it working into the weave, and with each turn of the wheel, further and further into the braids, and rubbing against the inner liner.

 

This is NOT a common occurance.

 

WHY:

1. Stainless braided lines are ALWAYS aftermarket (because of the above)

2. People who install aftermarket lines have their wheels off more than they have their underwear off

3. We do FREQUENT brake fluid inspections and brake line inspections

 

Rubber line failure in the first 100,000 miles of the car, 1/500,000 (I'm told) - accidents as the result of that nearly zero (mostly gets caught at a state safety inspection - they leak usually before bursting)

 

Stainless line failure, 1/10,000 (generally also a leak), but thats 50 times the failure rate, not acceptable for an OEM.

 

The best reliable lines have thick rubber covers over stainless, and linings over stainless steel are the only acceptable ones that pass state safety inspections.

 

Shawn

 

This is why if you run SS braided lines you should run ones with the outer sleeve. But the plastic failure at the line to banjo connection is still an issue. I had a set of Techna-Fit lines on my Infiniti, both the sleeve and plastic covers were destroyed in less then 20k miles.

 

Then the next issue is what Shawn brought up, when a rubber line starts failing it will be easy to spot. SS line is like Milk, it's good until it's not :lol:.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Engineering Explained has a great video about this as well. Stainless Steel Brake lines look cool, might provide more feedback, but it is really smoke and mirrors. Rubber brake lines, is money well spent. Stainless brake lines, a waist of $$$ and a more trouble than they are worth.

In short I second Shawn's views.

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If you race the car and need to have fine control over the brakes for optimal braking/cornering, then steel braided are the way to go, but for normal use OEM is good enough.

 

Then there are kevlar hoses as well that looks like the ordinary rubber hoses.

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I went trough the same way on cutting the tube from the top but instead of putting both pipes on the same route I went on the seats for the driver side making a short cut and put it in. Less bending and frustration LOL

a8f498756afb64714c2af2d16cddff16.jpg

1644acb70bb046cf59a981b84b665d6b.jpg

ab144de0d8be9c2e99c7d1c5c1d6282f.jpg

I will put a tie wrap for less vibration but it doesn’t need anyways the Molding of the seats will lessen the vibration.

 

 

I'm gonna do this as well before I end up with a ruptured line. Recall was done before I bought my car and when I inspected it recently it looked like crap coated in wax. Any chance you could post a list of what you used? It would save myself and others some time putting together what we would need.

 

Thanks

-Dave

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@Dave- Slide some cut vacuum hose over the line inside the car to prevent it from eventually rubbing through.

 

 

 

Thanks.. I definitely plan on doing that. I may also route the line across in front of the seat under the carpet but high near the base of the seat if doable.

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Just want to let you know, about this thread, looks like SoA covered his lines.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dealership-denied-rusted-brake-line-repair-recall-smoking-guni-269642.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 years later...
Thanks.. I definitely plan on doing that. I may also route the line across in front of the seat under the carpet but high near the base of the seat if doable.

 

First post :)

 

Lines are busted on my 08OBXT. I think only the rear right. But rear left looks bad too. How did you end up routing? I was looking in my car yesterday and thought that in front of the seat under the carpet might me a nice way to route it. Also how is repairing holding up so far?

 

how about you @edgemoulic - still everything holding up on yours?

 

thanks fellas!

Marcinho

Edited by Marcinho
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Cut the lines under the back seat and ran the right side out where the old lines exited and crossed in front of the back seat under the carpet for the left side. On the left I used an existing grommet to exit the interior. Under the seat worked out great. I don’t think it took even 2 hrs to do.

 

April of 2019. About 15k miles since. No problems.

 

3/16 NiCopp for the lines and m10x1.0 fittings and brass couplers.

 

 

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I have a newbie question about this..

 

When you cut the lines inside the car, how do you prevent the master cylinder from going dry while you're doing the work, flaring and such? Do you constantly refill it?

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I have a newbie question about this..

 

When you cut the lines inside the car, how do you prevent the master cylinder from going dry while you're doing the work, flaring and such? Do you constantly refill it?

 

 

As long as no one presses the brake pedal you’ll be fine. It will barely drip when cut. I just put a wee wee pad for a dog under the lines to catch any drip.

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Mine were pretty crusty after 300K, the sections in the clips along the tank were the worst. It took almost no force to snap them in half once I had them out.

 

I was lucky the lines in my parts car were like new. I had the subframe out already so I dropped the tank and replaced them. But I was not going to pull the interior to do the lines to the front. I did my splice under the back seat with factory hardware.

 

picture.php?albumid=2842&pictureid=12942

 

Gary

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Cut the lines under the back seat and ran the right side out where the old lines exited and crossed in front of the back seat under the carpet for the left side. On the left I used an existing grommet to exit the interior. Under the seat worked out great. I don’t think it took even 2 hrs to do.

 

April of 2019. About 15k miles since. No problems.

 

3/16 NiCopp for the lines and m10x1.0 fittings and brass couplers.

 

 

b098b23800aef258f604f01e5fb957e0.jpg

8ff9725e0c17edf51319446165e0a10e.jpg

 

Is there a way to copyright a built or ideas ✌️😅😅

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I have a newbie question about this..

 

When you cut the lines inside the car, how do you prevent the master cylinder from going dry while you're doing the work, flaring and such? Do you constantly refill it?

 

The purpose of the joint is to prevent the leak from a total drain on the system. It is a safety feature of it. The little drop of fluid that you’ll see will stop once that joint left in there is empty to avoid total loss fluid of the system. I know because my brake was left 2 days in the parking lot and never emptied the system.

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