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#1: 09-18-2005, 06:28 PM
Where to begin with modifications to your Legacy GT
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Car: 2005 Legacy GT, Garnet Red! Not Maroon!!
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I thought that a number of new members, and even several established members, could use a nicely consolidated thread to help with finding all the "first mods" typically associated with the Legacy GT. There are so many threads that pop up asking these questions, so I'll try to hit on the most common subjects and most popular mods. Because several of these topics can be QUITE extensive, I'll frequently give a brief description of what can be done and link to another thread which contains good information or possibly even further links within. I know there are areas I'll miss, and some areas I don't know too much about ... so please do help out with this, and I'll try to add stuff to this original post to try to keep it as well organized as possible.

Note: I'm not trying to hit every mod or adjustment, just the
most common ones to give people an idea where to begin when
they first ask themselves "What to do?"

Without further ado:


There are a few routes to go if you're looking to bump the power in your LGT.

The most popular seems to be the AccessPORT from Cobb Tuning, but other options are available from ECUTek and possibly other suppliers. These extract power from the car by simply reprogramming the ECU to optimize fuel, air, boost, timing and other factors. Plenty of information can be found in this thread from the Turbo Powertrains forum:

Numerous Up Pipe, Down Pipe, and Exhaust systems exist also, which, in conjunction with the aforementioned ECU programs, can add to greater increases. Most of this is covered in the link above also.

Pricing for AccssPORT is about $650
Pricing for ECUTek - ???
Pricing for UP/DP/Exhaust - How fast do you want to spend?

Shifters: (Primarily Manual Transmission)

Lots of short throw shifters exist for the Legacy. The most popular models for this are the OEM STI Short Throw shifter, Kartboy, and Cobb Tuning's double adjustable shifter. Pricing tends to range from about $100 - 250.

New shifter bushings will help with shifter feel also and are a good thing to add with your short shifter. Kartboy and Cobb are common suppliers for these parts. Pricing is usually around $30-60

Shift knobs are also popular additions to the car, but are far too numerous to try to list. I suggest reading through the Interior/Audio forum to see examples of various knobs. MOMO and Prodrive both make shift knobs designed to work with the OEM shifter boot on manual transmission models. There are also some knobs available for the automatic transmission out there if you're looking for some extra style.

Pricing is usually around $60-90, but I've personally seen some knobs as high as $150.


My oh my ... where to begin with Audio?!

I'm going to start off by pointing you to this thread here: This thread highlights a few of the major FAQs associated with the sound system in our cars and should cover how to get better sound from the car.

Something that has disappeared from the Audio FAQ is direct connecting an auxillary input. I'm guessing this is because a couple new options have recently emerged, but neither is really fully developed, so to speak (as of 9/18 when I write this). But currently, there appears to be two solutions to adding an Auxillary input. The first option is here: , the second option found here: . Both solutions require removing and disassembling of the radio to use this option.


Aluminum Pedals dress up the interior a bit. There is the STI pedal set issued in the Legacy Accessories catalog which has STI Pink rubber nubs. Some members have also used the WRX Aluminum Pedal set and some have found a matching Dead Pedal with black rubber nubs. WRX Pedal set goes for around $50, the matching Dead Pedal goes for $40-50, and you can purchase a complete set at Mastro for about $100 -

Gauges are also too numerous to try to touch on here, but just type in "gauges" in a search in the Interior/Audio forum and you'll find TONS of info on gauges.

Disable Seatbelt Warning Chime -
1) Sit in Driver Seat - Probably best to close the door in case it's needed.
2) Put the key in the ignition, but do not turn it
3) Grab your seatbelt and get it ready to clip it in
4) Now turn the ignition to "On" (don't start it!)
5) Within 30 seconds of turning the ignition to "On", completely buckle and unbuckle the seat belt 20 times. When done with this step, immediately turn the car off.
6) Turn the car back on, and it should be set.
To turn the Warning Chime back on, repeat steps 1-6.


Lots of different things to do to the exterior of the car. In no particular order.

Grille/Grill - There are two options to purchase, the JDM grill and the RBS JDM replica grill. They are both body colored around the surround of the grill, with a black mesh behind them. The JDM grill has the emblem in the center, the RBS requires you to supply your own emblem if you so desire. You can purchase both at Pricing ranges from about $280 - 400.

Front Lip - There is an STi front lip spoiler (and various replicas out there) which hangs just below the bottom of the front bumper. I've only seen them in black. Pricing ranges from about $300 - 600 on these depending on if you get the OEM part or a Replica. This is the most common part for the front lip, though there seem to be a few others floating about. Great thread on the OEM Legacy STi Lip:

Headlights - Two popular mods on the headlights are one in the same, but the second just adds a few steps. Clearing the headlights involves removing the Orange Reflector from the signals, and Blacking Out the headlights does the same but also involves painting the housing in the lights black. There are two walk through threads for these mods. If you want to black them out, first follow the directions for clearing the headlights, then follow the directions for blacking them out. (Clearing) & (Black Out)
Price - ummm ... Cheap - Free (Free to clear, cost of minimal supplies to black out - maybe 6 bucks tops)

Headlights/HID conversion: There are two methods to be considered on this subject. The first method is to buy a kit (typically in the $300 range) which will replace the bulbs in the stock light housing using the stock halogen projector lens to disperse light (more on this to come). Look around the exterior section for more posts on where to find them. This thread covers the kits pretty well: The second method, and the supposed "better" solution (read, more difficult, but better quality) is to retro-fit an actual D2S (Real HID) lens and bulb with original donor OEM parts to make a true HID conversion. VXCL did a nice write-up here:

Disabling Daytime Running Lamps - Just follow this link. Piece of cake.

Debadging - Or removing the badges from the rear of the car. Pretty well explained in this thread here:
Note: The rear "Stars" emblem has pins that sit in holes in the trunk, so almost no one has actually removed this badge since it leaves holes behind in the trunk.


Please help me out ... I'm not too knowledgable in this area, and would prefer someone's aid in adding to this.


Ditto above


These two threads should be a good place to start: &


I'm not going to spit fire on the RE92's, but there are other options out there.

All Season: The two most popular options on this site seem to be the Pirelli PZero Neros and the Toyo Proxes 4s. Certainly there are others, but these seem to be popular for their particular wide range of duty and performance.

Winter: This thread is too good for me to say anything else

Summer: Coming

Last edited by Brady; 11-17-2005 at 10:26 PM..
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