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schwinn

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    Somewhere in Connecticut
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    RIP 2006 Legacy GT 5MT

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  1. Impressive oil filter setup, indeed. Mine isn't all that, but I'm still running my stock turbo on my 06, 140k miles on her now, stock oiling system (except for a replaced oil pickup). I use Rotella T6, Bosch oil filters (typically), and have done UOAs all along along with 6-10k OCIs. I'm running Stage2 as well, and go WOT as often as I feel like it (at least a few times a day, typically, getting on the highway). Everything is going well, knock-on-wood!
  2. I just found a similar issue on mine, but the cable itself was fine. The tip was simply not working well in the jack (on the radio-side of the setup, no less). Maybe that why the newer rev boards appear to have RCAs (instead of 3.5mm jacks)? Just wanted to mention it, in case someone else ran into similar problems...
  3. Since someone else already resurrected this thread, and seeing that I'm a stickler for data, I just wanted to provide some date for something that was said WAY back in this thread (from 2005, before I even owned my LGT!) I reference http://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=NHTSA-2008-0153-0004 Granted, this study wasn't present at the time, so the thread participants couldn't have known about it... but it's good info regardless. The point is that "DRLs have no statistically significant overall effects on the three target crashes" and that "DRLs might have unintended consequences for pedestrians and motorcyclists". So, for those concerned, I just wanted to show that the "DRLs save lives" is simply not proven at all, per the NHTSA at least... feel free to disable them, as I (and many others) have done!
  4. Just wanted to close the loop on my car. I've been driving with the bearing whine for a few months now. It hasn't gotten worse, which is why I left it alone for now. It also wasn't as bad as another car that was in the shop with a similar issue... so I felt safer. It really wasn't that loud on my car - I'm just hyper-sensitive to noises on my car! Finally got the bearings in (about $130 from FredBeans) and scheduled the appointment at the shop to have the work done. From what I had read, it shouldn't take more than a few hours, but the shop said they had to pull more out than just the tailshaft... is this job very different on the LGT vs the WRX (eg http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1170285 )? In any case, they completed the job and the car is quiet again... my center diff seemed fine with all my testing, so we left it alone. Upon inspection, they didn't see anything wrong with it either, so there's no sense in replacing it. Not like I race the car... I'm still curious about the time it took them... so I'd love to know if WRX vs LGT is really that different? EDIT: Forgot to mention, the bearings didn't look as bad as the others I've seen here and on NASIOC... but you could see streaks and pitting on some of them. Still, since it's quiet now, this proves they were the source anyway, so I'm happy. I didn't bother taking more pics since the ones shown here are much easier to see... but keep in mind, it doesn't take much to make them start being noisy!
  5. Excellent -thanks for the followup! I've contacted Heuberger and we'll see what they come up with - hopefully the same numbers, haha!
  6. Just to throw in my 2c... my Stage2 LGT 5MT has 120k on it. It has been officially launched at the dragstrip, earlier in its life.... maybe a total of 10 times? Day to day, I enjoy my Stage2... I don't drop the clutch and such from a standstill (bad way to break things) but I do use WOT whenever I can (merging onto the highway, etc). So, I'm WOT probably 2x a day. Maintenance-wise, I've used ExtraS for the last 2 changes... and the trans has worked well for me. Anyway, back to the original intent of this thread and my post... my current issue is for the bearing whine on the back of the trans. I came here to ask about how to ensure my diff is fine, and got an answer on PM that I wanted to share with others. Here's the PM thread: If you are referring to the bearings, I can lend some assistance. If the car whines while on throttle only (e.g., taking your foot off the gas and it immediately goes away or when you lightly press the accelerator the sound reappears), or makes a cyclical rubbing sound at low speed, it is highly suspect. If you drive with your windows down and next to a curb at 35-45mph (I found the right side curb to reflect the sound the best), you will also hear the whine. A bad differential will actually bind after driving at sustained driving at highway speed. After 20-30 minutes of freeway driving, pull into a parking lot and drive in a figure 8. If you have a hard time, hear tire slippage, or feel binding, it is likely a center differential. In either case, basic tools (bearing puller set, a shop press and roll pin removal tools) can do the job well. It is about $350 for the diff and $130 for the bearings from Heuberger. If you need any additional help, I will likely be checking back on this forum daily. Thanks for the reply! The car whines in general when at speed (60+). It's louder under accel or decel. I had my shop put it up on the lift and run it, and they know it's coming from the rear of the trans, for sure (using a stethescope) so I can't imagine what else it would be. Driving with the windows down at speed really isn't much of an option right now (it's friggen cold here in MA!) but I think the location of the sound is all set anyway, so... I did your test for the diff last night after driving for about 1 hour... and the car is fine. That's what I really wanted to troubleshoot in depth... and I think it sounds like my diff is fine, and that this is just bearing noise. Car drives fine, so I think I'm safe with the diff for now at least. I'll have the bearings swapped, and see where that leads me. Thanks, again, for the info... and the info about a set of new bearings from Heuberger!
  7. I believe I have the bearing issue on my 06 LGT, as I can hear a squealing noise at highway speeds. My shop put it on a lift, and used a stethoscope to locate it to the rear of the trans (it's loudest there). But before I go spending money just for the bearing replacement, I want to be sure everything else is ok. For starters is like to ensure the diff is good. Can you or anyone else tell me how to check this? Beyond that, is there anything else I should check to make sure I'm not throwing money away into an old trans? I don't race, but I do drive hard sometimes. Car is stage 2 and has 120k miles. No other issues to report (knock on wood). Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
  8. Just wanted to provide an update, now that the "car saga" (as my wife called it) is over. Car was in the shop for over a week, as we tried to figure out what was wrong. Between myself, a mechanic friend, and a good shop in my area, we all tried finding the problem. Tried flushing and bleeding the clutch hydraulics. Checked the movement of all these parts, and none of us found anything wrong. No leaks, no sticking, no bleed-by on the mechanism either. So much for hoping it was a simple fix... so into the clutch we went. Longer story short, they ended up finding the problem: A broken pressure plate spring floating around inside. I would have thought this would cause it to never-release (as others have found, eg: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/act-lgt-hd-street-clutch-failure-206067.html )... mine released sometimes, and then not at others. Also, I'd expect a scraping noise or something, if this was jammed inside... but that didn't happen either. Weird. I didn't take any pictures of my pressure plate, as the picture in this thread was pretty much exactly what I had happen. Anyway, problem is solved now. I switched to a Clutchmasters FX300 clutch... certainly a MUCH lighter pedal feel. Very grabby, as it grabs right off the floor... I guess this is normal for these clutches. I can't complain too much about the ACT, as I did get 62k miles out of it (I made a mistake in my math above)... but it is disappointing to see it fail due to the spring, instead of just wearing out... probably could have gotten more out of it. Many thanks to the shop, FasTrack Automotive in Peabody, MA (http://www.fastrackservice.com) for dealing with the troubleshooting, parts shipping delays, etc along the way... these guys are excellent and thorough in their work!
  9. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I figure it's a sticky so it won't matter too much. I had purchased an ACT SB5-HDMM clutch from a reseller here back in 2009, and it's been working great, until just recently. The issue I have for the past 2 weeks is that shifting has become almost impossible, as it seems that the clutch is not "releasing" fully. I have to rev-match perfectly to get anything to move at these times. Weird thing is, it changes throughout the drive - for example, last Thursday I drove into work - it was fine in the morning, but was not releasing by the time I got near my work place... so bad that even with the clutch fully depressed, releasing the brake would cause the car to pull forward (like an automatic car would)... even stopped it would struggle to keep idling (never fully stalled, fortunately). I (and the shop the car is at now) have checked the clutch hydraulics, and they seem to be working fine. I flushed and bled the system, to no avail. There are no noises or other issues to report - just this problem. I've heard that when a clutch wears out, the engagement point gets higher on the pedal, and this is effectively "too low" on the pedal... but I'm not sure. I'm very happy with the clutch, but I'm wondering if this is something else? Any ideas? Note that there are no other noises, and it does disengage "sometimes"... and it's quiet when this happens... so I don't think it's a jammed-spring, as at least one other ACT owner has shown (on a different thread). The carhas 115k on it now, so I figure the clutch probably has about 80k on it... not bad, honestly. In addition, if I do need to replace the clutch (as I expect I may need to) I'm considering alternatives... primarily to reduce the pedal force. I hear the Clutchmasters might be up my alley... but I also read that every aftermarket brand seems to have its "issues"... can someone summarize what these issues might be? For example, I've heard CMs have some chattering issues? Too soft a pedal feel? Or early failures on the FX300 (now replaced with the FX350?)... and though I had a good experience with the ACT, what am I in for now that people have had more time on them...? I know the pedal is heavy (but apparently, I and my wife are able to manage it fine)... and I guess some have had spring and other such failures... anything else? I've been out of the game for a while here... so I just wanted to get a quick catchup, please!
  10. AFAIK, all Bilsteins can be sent back to them for rebuild and even further modification...
  11. I'm starting to sound like a broken record... Shocks/struts and springs need to be "matched". If you get stiffer (or lower) springs, then you need something better suited to that than the OEM struts, which are not designed for the springs.
  12. Checking in to see if this is the guy I met at Ravenswood with the silver GT.

     

    Tom

  13. I realize that he was in a warmer climate, but the point is simple: He had the problem, he filled the bushing, and the noise went away. With that progression, it doesn't really matter how cold it is numerically, since he's dealing with the same vehicle and similar temperatures. Secondly, no one else (that I know of) has replicated his effort. Sure, installing SpecB bushings might help, and LBGT even says it helped a little... but they still have spacing and flex in them, and don't eliminate that completely, as SeeYa did. So, although you can't directly compare the two efforts, they both have shown to have an effect, at least... which implies this is where we should be working... right? No other location has shown any or any-significant improvement... has it? Doesn't this mean we should be concentrating our efforts on the one lead we have? As for my noise, I've simply been to lazy to do anything about it. Well, that and a lack of time to experiment... so I certainly have no excuse, but at least I'm ok with it
  14. I wouldn't say that... SeeYa filled in his bushings to eliminate the noise on his vehicle. Granted, it's a messy process, but it seems to have worked for him at least: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2305538&postcount=729 As I mentioned in another post, I can't take the car down for the time it will take to cure this goop, so it's not really an option for me. However, I am hoping that an insert-style poly-bushing might be developed for this location... one that will take up the spaces and provide the added stiffness needed.
  15. Not sure if that's accurate. The link you provided says: What are Pinks? Pinks are lowering springs designed and sold by STI branch of Subaru. Compared to stock JDM cars lower the car all around 15mm. Pinks are not designed for stock struts and result in crappy ride. If mated to stokers they lower more like 25mm. and: Can I use JDM springs on USDM stock dampeners? Yes. However they will drop the car more in front compared to JDM suspension. The reason is that lower spring perch on the front struts is actually located lower compared to Bilsteins. Ascetically this is good as it results in more even stance, however I do not believe USDM struts/shocks can handle stiffer lowering springs. [emphasis mine] Lastly: How USDM SpecB Bilsteins compare to JDM Bilsteins? USDM SpecB Bilsteins are identical to JDM GT Rev.C Bilsteins, see above. Note that last bit says the SpecB Bilsteins are identical to JDM GT-Cs... but theflystyle has a 3.0R... I don't know if those Bilsteins are the same as SpecB Bilsteins. (It would make sense for them to be the same, but again, just because it says Bilstein doesn't meant they're valved the same... which is why I brought all this up.
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