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maxspeed3

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  1. I'm not entirely sure what you are asking. The uppipe on the twinscroll setup uses 6 studs on the uppipe flange to mount the turbo to it.
  2. More photos of the ecu and turbo! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  3. It's been way too long since I've posted any updates with the car. Life got in the way the last year and a half (in a good way). To start out the jdm ej20 swap is overall completed (running the jdm ecu) other then finishing the exhaust side avcs wiring. I have been daily driving the car now for a few months and it runs and drives really well considering the exhaust side avcs isn't connected yet. The car really doesn't have much power until 3500-4k then it really pulls nice! For running the JDM ecu I had a family friend that is good at soldering remove the eeprom chip from the USDM ecu and resolder it onto the jdm ecu. The chip is located (see attached photos) on the lower right corner of the board. The chip will have L56R stamped on it. Although this process is somewhat tedious it can be done! The chip has 8 "legs" that attach it to the board. I highly recommend using flux on the soldering iron when desoldering the legs as it slows the time of cooling on the soder on the pads on the ecu. This greatly helped with desoldering the legs off of the board. Be very careful when lifting the chip off of the board as the pads on the board are VERY small and can attach themselves to the soldering iron (know this from experience). ****DISCLAIMER**** DOUBLE CHECK YOUR ECU WITH THE JDM ECU TO MAKE SURE THE CHIP NUMBERS MATCH!!! JDM ECU Number for a manual transmission 22611AK221 I was very surprised that the two ecus have the same numbers stamped on the boards (112231-6810) So maybe there is a workaround here that I don't know about with flashing a jdm map onto the usdm ecu and running the additional wires. I know this has been up for debate that the two ecus don't have the same hardware but to me they looked identical. Maybe someone more knowledgeable could chime in. Fast forward to early March and I was cruising to work and I heard a pop and then the turbo (vf38) stated to make a compressor surging sound. The car drove just fine. Well that was the beginning of the end for the turbo. I did some investigating and didn't find any boost leaks as the sound would come and go. I drove it the next couple of days and the sound was gone and a day later it was back. So, more investigation. I took off the downpipe and "OPE", oil coming out of the turbine side and the turbo as a lot of shaft play. Time for a new turbo I guess... This is where it got sort of complicated. I wanted to keep the twinscroll setup for the responsiveness, but finding a vf38 to most likely have the same issue again didn't seem reasonable. And since the vf38 is ball bearing they can't be rebuilt. After some research I found MambaTek Turbo and read a lot of great reviews so I ordered a TD04HL-20T as a replacement to the vf38. Shipping was very quick, less then a week. The turbo is great build quality and came with braided oil and coolant lines and all of the necessary hardware. Link to turbo: https://shop.mambatek.com/GTX-Turbo-SUBARU-BP5-BL5-Legacy-Liberty-TD04HL-20T-9-Blade-001-0371.htm?categoryId=-1 Currently as of 4/4/2020 I am in the middle of the turbo swap, waiting for a new turbo inlet to arrive early next week. I will report back when I get the car up and running again.
  4. Alright everyone, a little update on the rebuild/swap thread. The ej20 is in the car and all hooked up! I finally was able to get a bellmouth made for the vf38 flange that I bought from kingugawa turbo. My current plan is to cut off the bellmouth from a dp that I bought meant for the vf40 and merge the 2 pieces into each other. Vband with a short flex joint added to vband on the other end since the angles between the two are different. Currently with the bellmouth hooked up the car idles rough under 1000 rpm and will kill itself when not up to temp, but over 1000rpm it idles very smooth. I'm assuming the ecu is just dumping fuel because it still thinks that the car has tgvs, vf40 and the half liter more displacement. I'm hoping this will be fixed once the jdm ecu is swapped over. My car is an 05 manual, and I wanted to confirm part numbers for the jdm ecu that I should be looking to buy (If I can find one....) Part number# 22611AK221 I've been looking all over eBay and jdm importers and can't seem to find an ecu that is manual trans specific. There are auto ecu everywhere. I'd assume that if I did buy an auto trans one it could be reflashed for manual software? Anyone have any reccomendations on where to find a manual ecu?? I also wanted to mention the shop I went to in Fargo, Madfab Manifolds did very nice work and I spoke with them about the possibility of a group buy because there isn't really any aftermarket downpipe options for the vf38 currently that are reasonably priced. They said if 12 or more people are interested they would be willing to make something work for a group buy. They created a vf38 flanged bellmouth to a 3 inch diameter exhaust with a v band for the rest of the downpipe. The cost for the bellmouth was 200$ plus the vf38 flange for 25$ from kingugawa turbo. Once I have a jdm ecu for the wiring I'm thinking about the possibility of utilizing the existing wiring from the tgvs to connect the exhaust avcs together. Since the tgv wiring is already connected to the ecu it seems pretty simple to swap the pins into the correct place onto the jdm ecu. Then adding the wires from the avcs to the tgv plugs and repin the plugs. I need to check the wiring diagrams again to confirm but it does seem feasible to do and save the headache of running the wires through either the Brown or bulkhead connectors. Will be back with more info on this once I find an ecu. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  5. Some photos of the ej20. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  6. Hey all, It's been a very long time since I've updated the progress of my rebuild thread. Long story short the past 6 months have been a roller coaster of events. But I can now say that the car is almost ready to move under its own power! I decided to go with the EJ20X (my car is a manual so Y) swap since it is very affordable to get the damn thing back on the road. I ordered the EJ20 from JDM Alliance in Garland, TX. The motor was $950 shipped with included residential lift gate fee. JDM alliance was very helpful with the transaction and the motor showed up as expected! For the swap I only swapped over the USDM wiring harness to the JDM motor. I left the jdm intake manifold, headers, turbo upipe, injectors etc on. My buddy was able to dissemble the jdm wiring harness and was able to salvage the exhaust avcs plugs that connect to the brown bulkhead connector under the tmic. However I will need to repin and add the additional wires that run through the main body harness connector on the passenger side of the engine bay at a later date, once I have the JDM ecu. I plan to document the wiring process so others that plan to do this swap have something to go off of. It will be a few weeks yet before I can get this information online because I do not have the JDM ecu yet. Before swapping out the eprom chips for the immobilizer, I'm going to take the car running the usdm ecu to a local dealer to see if they can reprogram the immobilizer in the lot once the jdm ecu is swapped over with the wiring for the exhaust avcs already in place. If for some reason they can't reprogram the ecu, then I will document the eprom swapping process. Overall this swap is pretty straight forward. I had to remove some misc. coolant lines that were cut from the donor car and the bypass valve hose. I did also "T" off the coolant port on the back of the drivers side cylinder head into the heater core lines. I used an Exedy OEM replacement clutch kit. FJK1001. The previous owner had bought that same kit with the lightweight flywheel so I had my local machinist resurface the flywheel. If needed that kit part number is FJK1001FW (with flywheel). I found the kit on Amazon for $285 with free shipping! Everything bolted right up to the ej20 and I reused my ej255 hardware for the flywheel and clutch. For the ej20 I swapped out spark plugs since doing them in the car is a pain in the a**. The ej20 and ej25 use the same part number for spark plugs and can be cross referenced with Denso or NGK. Once the motor was in the car and everything was buttoned up I pulled the fuel pump fuse to prime the motor and build oil pressure. it turned over and idled pretty good. I do not have a downpipe for it as of yet. I ordered a Tomokia Racing Twinscroll downpipe (Part# ES1006) and it arrived today and it unfortunately doesn't fit after Tomokia Confirmed fitment that it does. I'm currently working with them to figure another option out at this point. It could be the ES1005 part number instead. Still trying to confirm this information with them. If anyone has any incite for a downpipe that does fit other then the $800 HKS from Japan or merging a stock flange from the jdm motor, which my motor didn't come with a chunk, I'd really appreciate it! My motor came with the VF-38 twin scroll.
  7. Has anyone used an 08+ sti engine wiring harness instead of running the wires for the exhaust avcs to the bulkhead? I'm going to be doing this swap in my 05 lgt very soon too. I've looked at the pinouts of the bulkhead connectors between the two cars and they appear to be the same just the addition of the avcs wires I'm wondering if all of the connectors for the various sensors are the same on the usdm and jdm motors. I wouldn't think subaru would change the connectors around between usdm and jdm. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  8. Its been a while since I've updated the thread.... Had a family emergency a few weeks ago so I haven't made any progress on the rebuild and last week I took the cylinder heads to the machinist. To keep the story short my passenger head is now going to be a paper weight.... The machinist isn't comfortable with the amount of wear on the cam journals so its time to at least find a good passenger side B25 head to use or a new pair and utilize the parts that I have from the old heads... On a side note, I've been reading into the ej20 swap that people have done on this forum as well as others. I know people are really happy with it once the car is tuned and the exhaust avcs is wired up. At this point I'm considering this swap for the lower cost (really want to drive the car), since the passenger side head I have is junk. The whole swap could be done for the cost of remain or new blank b25 head castings without any valve train components. Still trying to decide on what to do.... I will try to keep posting updates but school has started now so its going to be slow going for a few months....
  9. Hey all! Been a while since I've updated the thread! Been doing a lot more research on the rebuild and found a very local seller to me selling a pair of d25 heads that have been completely redone and they include the alumaniti egr block off plates. So my question for you all is that after looking on the forum just to confirm these heads are a direct swap for an 05 lgt? I read that the d25 heads have a slightly different combustion chamber compaired to the b25 heads that I currently have. Being I'm not doing a stock rebuild as long as the math is run for the slight difference in compression ratio is there really anything to be concerned about or in the long run can the car just be retuned? Also is the only other issue to be concerned about is the oil line for the avcs system? Sent while redlining all of the gears.
  10. Thanks for the heads up regarding the gates timing kit. I read something similar on iwsti forums. I do have a killerB pickup tube that was on the car from the previous owner, but the screen was full of bearing material when I took it out. Even with a good cleaning I'm still really hesitant about even using it on a fresh motor. Most likely I'll go with the Moroso like you mentioned, I've heard really good things about them! Out of curiosity what is the real difference between the two water pumps that you mentioned?
  11. After researching more over the past couple weeks I've decided go for a forged motor build instead of stock (pricing parts out its very close to a stock rebuild).... As in previous posts about a forged build a revised parts list is below. This is just the essentials (not including oil, coolant, misc. tools, hoses etc.) just the internals and major assembly parts. After the motor is assembled and in the car for the break in period I plan to run stock fueling with a conservative tune and once the motor is broken in I plan to switch to full e85 down the road. Also looking into turbos more I'm really leaning towards the BNR 20g since I don't trust the stock vf40 with almost 100k on it. My luck it would nuke and take out the fresh motor after a few thousand miles. Maybe I could make a turbo jet of out of it in the future.... Parts list with part numbers.... Subaru OEM Crankshaft................................................12200AA430 Manley Preformance Piston Set......................................MAN 612102C-4 Manley Preformance Connecting Rods.............................MAN 15024-4 ACL Race Main Bearing Standard Size Position #5............5M8309H-STD ACL Race Rod Bearings Standard Size 52mm Journal.......4B8296H-STD ARP Head Studs.........................................................260-4701 Subaru Engine Gasket Set...........................................10105AA720 Subaru Oil Cooler.......................................................21311AA051 Subaru Oil Pump.......................................................15010AA300 Gates Timing Belt Kit.................................................TCKWP328 Case Half Machine Work Head Work ACT HeavyDuty Street Clutch Kit ACT..........................SB11-HDSS BNR 20g
  12. Thanks! I plan to post a bunch more as the build continues! Sent while redlining all of the gears.
  13. Yes the heads are going to be pressure tested, decked, cleaned, etc. I looked them over again last night and the only scoring I really saw that needs some work is on the passenger side on cylinder number 1 intake on the very front cam journal where the cam seal sits. But it should be able to be polished or a slight hone job and when the head is decked it will hopefully be good. Sent while redlining all of the gears.
  14. Some more photos of the teardown! Main bearings look surprisingly good. A few score marks on them from when the rod bearing let go. It looks like when the bearing on #3 let go, the bearing material was melted onto the crank journal versus eating away at it. I don't plan to reuse this crankshaft, but maybe make a lamp out of it instead. More photos to follow of each piston and rod once I'm able to get them cleaned up a little bit. Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
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