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Shik

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  • Location
    PA Coal Region
  • Car
    06 GT Ltd(5MT) '15 WRX 6spd '02 Bugeye

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  1. You should have read post #351 before snapping that bolt off. Depending on where the car spent its winters, no amount of penetrating oil will touch some of those caliper bracket bolts(see pics of rusted bolt on previous page). Map gas is the key on this project. Anyone planning on doing a front wheel bearing(or just replacing the front rotors for that matter), should get map gas and heat those brackets up straight away. I don't even bother trying anymore without it.
  2. Just another tip to reinforce your feelings...if you are thinking it's the passenger front, turning left at speed will exacerbate the sound as more load will be put on the right side over the suspected bad bearing. Good luck!
  3. Yes, the gap is suppose to be there. But as SBT said, the backing plate could be a little tricky to get lined up at first if you are not watching to make sure it fits in there perfectly, at least it was for me.
  4. I'd hope even the beginner of beginners would use anti-seize after that fiasco Here is the infamous said bolt, along with it's OEM replacement: Anyone doing front wheel bearings(or rotors for that matter), should invest in some new bolts ahead of time!
  5. Yes, that's the one I grabbed back in December. Fit perfectly. FWIW, to those in the rust belt(i.e. Central PA) who never had your front caliper bracket bolts off before...good luck!!! First time my Ingersol & Rand impact wouldn't break something loose for me. I had taken other bracket bolts off before on other Subarus in my family and although they were always tough, I always got them loose. It took me about an hour of messing with the bottom bolt but it finally broke free. The top one...no way. Messed with it on and off for hours. Plenty of PB blaster was used. I did NOT want to snap it off so a breaker bar was out of the question. Finally, after heating it up with MAPP gas for 5 minutes, it came out in like 3 seconds! I used propane earlier in the day but that was worthless. The threads on the bolts were crazy. Practically solid rust. You can barely make out threads were there at some point!!! And by the looks of it, the PB Blaster didn't get anywhere near where it would have helped. The bolts were pretty much fused inside the bracket. Fun. I gotta do front brakes and rotors on it this week and this time on the other side I didn't take off yet, I'm cooking it right from the get-go! At least I know the other side will come apart easily
  6. Sorry if I overlooked the info, but what are the differences between the two different Timken numbers? : HA590315 http://www.rockauto.com/info/118/HA590315-A.jpg HA590118 http://www.rockauto.com/info/118/HA590118-A.jpg Both listed for the Legacy GT.
  7. You're welcome, brother Everyone looks at it differently. After thinking I was going to do the whole disassemble/re-grease this fall, I thought about even if I did it successfully and was able to put everything back together without messing something up, how worn is everything else in there? It's my daily and I absolutely cannot be without a car, even for a day. In the winter months, I go to work in the dark and come home in the dark. If I could help it, I'd rather not have to repair a starter when it's 15 degrees outside, because you just know it would not quit when it's warm and sunny until 9:00pm in the middle of summer! So, lets say hypothetically this starter lasts another 130,000 miles. That would be 260,000 miles between two starters and I have less than $200 wrapped up into it over that span and 45 minutes of my time....AND...I will never worry about it again. No listening for it to see if it's getting noisy again, no wondering when it's 0 degrees at 5am if my repair job was perfect. To me, absolutely worth it. Like I said, best of luck to those doing the repair work. I hope it lasts as long as a Subaru reman and costs virtually nothing but your time. Everyone has their point of view when deciding which route to go.
  8. I commend you guys for tearing into the starter and rebuilding it, but after a half-hearted attempt at greasing with no results, I figured, hey, my starter is 130K and 10 years old, it owes me nothing. Advance Auto wanted $220 for a Denso reman, I think retail on a OEM reman(also Denso) from Subaru was around $230. I got a discount from the Subaru Dealer so it was under $200 so that's the route I went. I was pretty pumped on how "new" the starter sounded. I know it sounds obvious, but it sounds like a new car starting Right in time for 5 months of cold morning starts! Good luck to those attempting the disassemble/re-grease!
  9. Just did the "short version" of lubricating the starter the other night. I used the brake caliper lube pictured above and got a cheapie syringe and squirted it through the hole. Our CVS pharmacy would give us syringes to measure out liquid medicine when our kids were babies if they ever needed a prescription for something. It worked great! Not sure how well it worked since the starter sounds fine at the moment, but in a month or two when the mornings are cold, it will surely start to squeal...or not...hopefully!
  10. I did my 06's inner front passenger boot this past weekend, and a couple notes for anyone tackling it for the first time. Dont't rush! If you notice a boot is torn, it's not going to explode. Get whatever parts and tools you'll need a few days beforehand. Spray whatever bolts you are taking off with your penetrating oil of choice a few days prior to the job. I guess those not in the rust belt don't need to worry as much, but my car living in PA since it was new has taken it's toll on suspension/drivetrain nuts and bolts. Having two people helps. I asked for the diff/axle seal as well as all the other parts, but when I picked up the parts(after the parts dept was closed), no seal. They did not have it in stock so I took my chances using the stocker. So, as I was taking the axle out and putting it back in, I had my wife hold it from the outside as straight as possible. Not sure if it helped, but no leaks. Another person also helps when yanking the hub assembly out of the way and putting it back when removing and installing the axle. I popped the axle out with just a big screw driver and I popped it back in pushing on the green cup and my wife pushing slightly on the end of the axle while keeping it straight I made the mistake of tightening the small end band on the boot when the boot was not in the groove of the axle(it was past it). After the axle was on the car, the boot was stretched. When I realized what I did and pushed the boot into the groove, the band was no longer tight. So instead of messing with more bands while the axle was in the car, I just grabbed so DEI stainless steel locking bands used for header wrap and such. No problems after 200 miles, no vibration, no seepage. How long it will last I'm not sure, but I keep an eye on things pretty good so I'll keep checking. I got a pack of 4 for like $9.00 or something, it was worth a shot. As far as aftermarket axle vs rebooting the OEM, I am definitely on the side of rebooting the OEM. I replaced an axle in one of my older Legacies with an aftermarket one and always had a very slight vibration from the day I replaced it. That was years ago and I'm sure aftermarket stuff has gotten better or maybe I just got a bad one, but whatever, I'll stick with OEM. The OEM axle and boots lasted 110,000 miles so to me, it's worth putting OEM back on. I know guys say "what about aftermarket exhausts and turbos and suspension, etc." and I would say when I buy that stuff, longevity is not the primary reason for me buying it. If it happens to last 100,000 miles, that's a bonus, but I'm buying that aftermarket parts for performance. This is not to say OEM doesn't fail prematurely but I'll take my chances with OEM vs aftermarket. Similar to fuel pumps. If and when I upgrade, I would prefer a Supra(1020 Denso) pump simply because they are quiet and made to last a long time as they are an OEM part. Just personal preference. Other than that, the original walk through as well as all the tips along the way were great!
  11. For the full removal and lubricate procedure, how about brake caliber slider lube like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51RASG8WZ2L.jpg Doesn't gum up and can withstand heat pretty good. Seems like it would be good in this application? Car is going into the shop for the typical throw-out bearing/'07+ clutch and flywheel/center diff bearings overhaul so I figured maybe I'd grab the starter while the tranny was out and fix it up and drop it back off the next day.
  12. I'm curious as to why there would be more issues with these turbos vs all of the Subaru turbo cars of say the 1990's. I've had two Legacy Sport sedans back then, both with super high miles on the original turbo and subscribed to [then] Performance Car Magazine from the UK (before there was mainstream internet) that covered Subarus on a regular basis and turbo failures were never an issue with Subaru. So why the screen in the first place if previous Subaru turbo cars had no widespread turbo problems, either due to maintenance neglect or otherwise? Are the turbochargers today THAT much different? Were the older turbos more durable when it came to oil cleanliness then the new ones? Why the screen NOW? One thing that is NOT debatable is that if you are buying a USED Subaru Turbo car, at least checking the screen should be done in the first 10 seconds after purchasing the car and you have it at your house!
  13. God bless you if you don't mind checking that screen at every oil change! I took the screen out after I got the car(about 20k ago), change the oil every 3K with synthetic and don't worry about it. What will be, will be.
  14. FWIW, I took my filter out today. There were indeed "particles" on the screen. Enough to mess with the oil supply? I doubt it very much. Still, I feel better knowing it's out. The car has 69K miles so I expected it not to be perfectly clean as some have found. But what did build up on the screen, in my opinion, would have caused no extra wear to the turbo had the screen not been there. Now to just find the bolt for the bracket I dropped (why can't they just fall to the ground and make life easy :lol: )
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