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Phillip J. Fry

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  1. stock bpv has consistently given me better mileage than kompact or cobb. after what i suspect as bad gas i went through 2 cans of bg44k and afterwards my mileage jumped up a few. was at 26 then went to 33 down the same stretch. using dyno tune. so many parts get worn and used. op is right. you need to be mechanically sound. coil packs get old after a while. i suspect #3 that sits just above the uppipe might see some extra abuse. i was running with a shield less stock pipe. many run cobb which has no shielding. i just changed out #3 out and havent fully tested mileage yet but its looking very good so far. will find out on my way to work tomorrow.
  2. i guess you lack experience. i have 17" rpf1 with 245-40-17 and dba 4k all around. stock wheel is 22lbs if you bothered to read this forum. i shaved a net of 5lb per corner from wheels/tires then even more with dba rotors. the weight decrease has helped with acceleration and helped a lot with suspension being more active and the ride less jarring. i also recently added stoptech lines and im pretty sure my pedal is very stiff. reliability? you have made only 2 points that dont hold well at all. the lines were <150. no hacking or guessing. more reliable than stock? are you joking? 18" wheels are not lighter than 17's so your point is wrong. people here are buying cheap heavy wheels not rpf1 or oz's or other light weight wheels. i read about every page under this thread. most do NOT have proper wheels. have you wondered why only 1 or 2 people are doing the work? then what are the sidewall heights people will be running? you think tire weights wont matter? people are taking one weight and adding another. glad im not the only one whom says stock brakes are decent. many of you are so emotional and wont listen to facts or reason. what work have you done exactly?
  3. stock sized used but not worn dba 4k was 20.5 for the front. 12.5 for the rear. id seriously doubt 2 pounds of rotor material was shaved away by the pads. stock rotor size is 12.4? sti is 12.7? i think a dbs 4k in a sti sized rotor would be lighter, maybe not by much, than a gt stock sized rotor. if people are buying new wheels and tires to fit this new system in then they will most likely be adding more unsprung weight and adding rotational weight as well. every bump ive encountered has reminded me that unsprung weight really lets the suspension be more active. its a less jarring ride. iirc this was all about looks though. truthfully, i didnt have any idea $3k for a brake look was "in". on a side note...id like to see an aluminum caliper for stock sized rotors though.
  4. dba 4k are much lighter than stock. im sure the incremental increase in size to what ever fits with this caliper wouldnt be much more than stock sized dba 4k weight. i have a used one in the garage but never weighed it. anyone going from stock rotors to a slightly larger dba will probably say it feels much better. i will say from experience the suspension is more active with lighter wheels and rotors. car doesnt jostle like stock. if you all are seriously looking into weight reduction id check dba. im not sure the weight of the stoptech rotors though or any other. ive yet to see an 18" wheel lighter than 17. given the same maker and even model. you will shave a few pounds at least with just rotors alone. even that is noticeable. heavy wheels will negate the weight shedding though. once you get used to lighter weights you dont want to go back. the car is more lively even just a little. suspension improvements feels good.
  5. easy to think that when its hard to dispute. some examples of common wrong here? cobb uppipe...stock has a flex joint. cobb does not. stock has heat shields. cobb does not. the cheap shoppers here buy cobb for the price. me? after leaks from 2 of cobbs pipes and after the stock split at the seem i now have a ceramic coated grimmspeed. you have any idea why a team of engineers at a major corporation would use a flex joint??? yeah. 99% of the people here dont. hawk hps pads? no. they are NOT as good as stoptechs. but people buy hps for what? lower dust? how about super soft sidewalls of the dws tires then people putting on coilovers. 0* toe? really? static toe is stationary and toe is different when you are driving. there is a reason why there is "average" intelligence. it allows some of us to be above or below. you are free any time to say im wrong and offer reasons. i doubt you will. as i stated previously. please feel free to keep on this project. im curious as well. i know the fun in trial and errors. sometimes you have to pull out the tape measure and do it 3 times then cut. from what ive seen so far...need bigger wheels, spacers, with the new wheels one needs tires. maybe need longer wheel studs. still need rotors and pads, brackets. this "cheap" brake upgrade is anything but. 18" rpf1 with new tires? 2k+. all the brake parts required? 1k? your time? labor? for 3k id rather try a bbk already developed. dba 5k are 300 each. if its doable, which anything is, it would be nice to know. keep in mind...are they heavier? will the rotors be heavier? wheels? tires? you will be changing your suspension dynamics with the increased sprung weight. steering will be heavier. car will feel more sluggish. this is excluding all the other factors on the parts and the stress they may or may not see. btw...is what i am being accused of any different than many of you running to the 2.5i section and declaring it a waste of time to mod? good luck with all of this though. im just as curious.
  6. id argue its not the engine itself. the long block i mean. something auxiliary. aka the fpr some are saying. theoretically if it is something auxiliary and it gets taken from the old engine and installed onto the new one you may have the same issue.
  7. next time i come up the hill from the ferry dock i will try this . 2500-3000rpm. does gear matter?
  8. its painfully obvious none of you are engineers. if you want to be hacked honda go ahead. this is the same situation of needing a faster car because you cant drive what you have. its false beliefs for lack of skill. instead of understanding and maximizing what you have you choose to cobble something else together. for what? youve easily proven my point about circle jerking. thanks for that. stop tech pads dont really fade. most of you who cobble this together will use some generic pad that isnt that good because dust is low then will use a low friction tire are near stock widths. lower it then do camber to make it fit. but then you loose contact patch for braking. oh noes. i can understand your lack of thought, insight and plain old ignorance. it happena to the all of us. i did say i was curious how it comes out. read my first paragraph and see why im worried we wont get full effect. bragging about 20 wheels and having 0 measurements...it proves my point. pedal feel? no fade? serriously? please continue on. im curious what the end results are , the final costs and most of all the cost of your time through all of this. would like to see some performance improvement figures as well. stock vs modified stock vs this setup. what pads and tires are used. stopping distances. you know. some real quantitive data. thank you for all your efforts. i truly look forward to the end results.
  9. if my facts came across as negative it was YOU who seen them as negative. it was an innocent observation. i have rpf1's and will never buy wrx wheels. why others just happen to have a set is a head scratcher. ive worked in a r&d environment before. seen this same style of cobbling before. in the end its hacked beyond what it should be and its not perfect or clean. look at whats being posted. shaving the wheels? shaving the brakes? buying another set of wheels? for what exactly? the "look" of bigger brakes? now i can agree what ive typed is negative but not the other one. im super curious why people are chipping away at a square wheel to make it round. i am curious. sure. but knowing how the stock brakes work i wont be doing a change for looks. at least you need to be honest. people are doing for others to look at. for lack of self confidence. guess im at a stage in my life where i dont understand why people are desperate for others recognition. some basic measurements would save everyone a LOT of time guessing what will fit and what wont etc. its quite a bit faster than trial and error.
  10. fwiw ive never had this stumble. transmission related?
  11. yeah. been following this thread. "cheaper calipers" end up turning into a new wheel and tire combo. i fail to see the savings. with good tires for dd i just cant understand why this particular setup is needed. for racing? yeah. ok. its nearly impossible to autocross on the street. haha.
  12. i like your post fahr. its really informative and fills in some gaps people, my self included, dont fully realize.
  13. same predicament here. if the piston rings are easily cracked as they say id rather do it once and pay a higher premium than to do it twice.
  14. this is great information man. on thursday and friday i will throw back what i find in my car and can try to reply with some theories or something. friday i have the throttle cleaning appt. thank you you have spent a great deal of time. its def helping those of wihc wish to learn a bit more detail about what the car is doing.
  15. same tires i have. i too used as+ prior and the re960. the as3 even with the oil coating stopped shorter than the v.2 as+ broken in on a very cold day to boot. and can lock up my 245-40-17 with stock sized rotors. they have a a/s3+ now with "28%" more snow traction. i will prorate for them in oct or november and check them out. as2 and as3 deal with hydroplane btter than the re960's did. yes i know that have re970 but im not taking that chance.
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