Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

John M

Mega Users
  • Posts

    1,518
  • Joined

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Location
    Milledgeville, GA
  • Car
    Formerly 05 LGT w/ FP Green
  • Interests
    80s music, turbo cars
  • Occupation
    IT Professional

Converted

  • Homepage
    http://moojohn.com/subaru

John M's Achievements

Veteran

Veteran (13/14)

  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In
  • First Post

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. As someone with a dead engine in a car with 22k miles, I halfway want to know if this is possible with a 5MT...
  2. There's probably a CEL code for Engine Replaced with GM V6. You know how fancy cars are these days! Oh, and a major congrats on the first drive.
  3. A 20g should be the smallest turbo you'd consider on a built 2.5 liter engine. Lag won't be a concern and power production will be much improved.
  4. NSFW has found the fuel pump duty cycle tables but right now it's not a standard definition. Apparently it's different in each ROM revision so he's got to manually locate it for each ROM. Once it's been made available for all ROMs, it's simply a matter of typing in 100% for all values -- no hardware change required. I'd want to do this even if I went to a relay so it'd have a steady trigger input.
  5. Yep, all except for this post... http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88155&d=1280596803 Looks like a Buick engine in a Subaru to me.
  6. I wonder if it would still be looking for that transmission controller if you simply flashed the ECU ROM from a 5MT car over yours. I don't think it would brick anything ....
  7. When I found the pic I used above, I was actually looking for what we had around here -- all the cars were on 13's with full reverse offset, aka the "rollerskate" look. Daytons are fine. 13-inch reverse Daytons on a fullsize Chevy sedan are another thing entirely. It was downright comical on Corollas and Sentras.
  8. And to think just 15 years ago it was all about the tiniest wheels you could fit onto a car. Double points if they were reverse offset and the whole tire was outside the wheel well. http://i38.tinypic.com/jtq44k.jpg
  9. That's what I think did most of the damage on my car. Not the stock tune but once I cranked the boost it exacerbated the situation. I applied the OL/CL fix long ago but the damage had already been done ever since the first turbo went in 2005. I continued running the same MBC after my turbo/FMIC swap and logs showed I never got into positive pressure while still in closed loop.
  10. I wouldn't consider piston replacement to be a prerequisite when building a 350-400whp Subaru. However, if the stockers do (and in my case, did) let go, I'm not about to replace them with another stock set.
  11. Anybody got shots of a high-mileage teardown of an engine w/ forged pistons? I think a lot of the issue is purely academic. Yes, forged pistons require looser tolerances and will cause more wear. How much more wear is the sticking point. Does it mean forged gets "only" 100k miles between rebuilds, or does it mean the block is good for 150k when stock pistons wouldn't wear that much until 300k? I'm happy with the tradeoff. It'll take me another decade to reach 100k miles and being able to do so reliably is worth the rebuild cost sometime in the year 2018-2020.
  12. Well, it turned out to be a non-issue. The o-ring stayed in place!!! I was able to remove the bolt, inspect & remove the filter, and replace the bolt in maybe 30 minutes total. The filter was indeed clogged, or mostly anyway. It left a thumbprint-size area of shiny metallic particles on the paper towel when I sprayed out the filter w/ carb cleaner. I can only assume this is the aftermath of the first turbo's demise. I won't know if the turbo survived until tomorrow. I don't want it to die during a test drive at night. I doubt my luck will hold out, but if by some miracle the turbo tests ok, there's a track day this Sunday
  13. So, today I decided to pull the infamous banjo bolt that supplies the turbo to see if the filter was clogged, and of course to remove it as well. Right now there's no way I'm going to remove that bolt. Sure, I've removed everything else and just have to unscrew the banjo bolt to remove it. Why won't I? Because there's no way in hell I'll ever get the rear copper washer back on! I know my hands won't be able to replace something I can't even see from above, let alone try to put back into place while inserting the banjo bolt. Suggestions?
  14. The only thing that keeps it in perspective for me is having a truck to drive during the week. Even though it's a Hemi (and you know I've modded it), it makes the car feel really good when I get behind the wheel. I hope to be able to give the car a nice round of mods in a month or two. A FMIC and FP Green, along with the required supporting mods, should make it a lot of fun to drive. I've owned the car three years this month and it's time for it to get a little quicker. My truck has mods planned for it as well. If I change the cam, torque converter, and add headers, it should run low 14s which is pretty good for a quad cab 4x4
  15. It's an amazing feat indeed, but I do have to wonder why you'd go through all that to add your own nav when you had OEM nav already? The other goodies in that double-DIN unit make sense but why all that to reduce the stock unit to simply a secondary display? I guess most double-DIN setups that do DVD also do nav anyway, but I'd have skipped on duplicating the nav part.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use