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Roof rack on my 1990 legacy
monkeyposeur replied to k0xrey's topic in First Generation Legacy (1989 - 1993)
I have seen them in person so they do exist. The problem is first gens are become increasingly rare so good luck finding a stock roof rack to install. There are plenty of options for you though. I don't know where you live but in SLC where I live there are rack install shops that can fit racks to any car. Also Yakima, Thule, etc. make universal roof racks. For example: https://www.rackwarehouse.com/yakima-subaru-loyale-wagon-skyline-jetstream-rack.html -
1990 Legacy 4EAT to EJ20G 5mt swap
monkeyposeur replied to Nü Umbrella's topic in First Generation Legacy (1989 - 1993)
The slanty is an air to air. The water-air were super rare. The Forester tmic is air to air. It's not that difficult to install one, but you have to make some modifications to get it to fit. There are lots of threads on bbslegacycentral showing how to do it. -
1990 Legacy 4EAT to EJ20G 5mt swap
monkeyposeur replied to Nü Umbrella's topic in First Generation Legacy (1989 - 1993)
Don't bother with a slanty intercooler. Just use a 2006 Forester XT intercooler. Get on https://bbs.legacycentral.org/ -
That is why I didn't bother doing the swap. I just bled the system and threw some Stop Tech pads on there. The braking feels just as good as my bugeye with similar pads and SS brake lines. If I was tracking the XT then it would be a different story. My windshield nozzles quit working completely. They sucked since I got the car, and the only one that kinda worked was the driver's side. I bought the hose assembly and was told it had the nozzles in it as well, it doesn't. Anyway, the main line coming off the tank was split so I replaced the line with the new one. Now I get some spray out of the driver's side, but it still sucks. I'm gonna get the nozzles from the dealership and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, then I'll replace the motor, and if it doesn't work after that then I'm out of ideas, lol.
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^Thanks! I didn't check the oil the last two fill ups. It was over 2 quarts low!!! It didn't seem to be consuming that much oil when I first got it, but i have been boosting it a lot, lol. I'll keep a better eye on it. I'm still planning on compression/leakdown testing it after finals. I found the OB XT Stage 1 map tables on Romraider so I'll throw that on the ecu as well. Interested to see how it feels after that.
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Where did you get your MAF? Part number? When I replaced my MAF on my bugeye I just found the OEM equivalent Denso MAF on Amazon for a lot less than the dealership. I'm also thinking getting the Nameless is the way to go. Wish I could hear one in person. My bugeye is pretty loud and I don't want the XT to be as obnoxious, haha.
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Nice dude! Been a long time! I'm selling my 93 SS. If anyone is interested PM me. I haven't listed it locally yet, just on bbslegacycentral in the hopes that I find a good home for it. Never thought I would sell it but I have the 360 whp Bugeye, and two outback XTs. I'm turning one of the XTs into a lifted desert battle wagon and the other XT I bought to give to my wife. My XT is has the 5MT and it's super fun. I'm going to get it to about 300, maybe 350 whp and call it good, lol. The SS has been her daily for like 8 years or something and it's been great and she loves it, but it takes a lot of maintenance to keep it going and I want her to have a nice reliable car that she feels safe in.
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I think you can get about 350 hp out of the stock SB before you should worry too much about the internals. I was talking to Turn In Concepts recently and that's what they think. But realistically, I wouldn't want to push more than 300 out of the stock SB. But the IAG stage 1 is only about $1k more than the OEM, so not terribly more expensive. I was thinking about just rebuilding the stock SB in the car with forged pistons. I built my 22T/205 hybrid in my basement and it was pretty easy to do, although a bit stressful wondering if I did it right. Before I make any final decisions I will do a leak down and compression test on my existing block. If it checks out I might just run it until it blows up. I have a lot of time to decide since I am not planning on pulling the engine until May at the earliest. Gotta finish this MS CS first, lol. And I haven't even installed my KYBs and Ralliteks yet.
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Anyone use the whiteline endlinks? I'm just looking around at what's available, and you can get front and rear whiteline sways in a package that includes endlinks for about the same price if you buy the front and rear sways separately. I know that sometimes the whiteline ball joints are problematic. I've used a whiteline rear sway on my old 95 legacy and it was pretty sweet so I know their sways are good, but I just don't know about the endlinks. Found a VF52 for only $350 w/40k locally, but I waited too long and it sold haha. I was waiting for the ad to be up for a while so I could talk him down more.
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I had a potential disaster last weekend changing my brake pads and rotors. The day before that I had my XT up on four jackstands and installed a new driveshaft. I'm at a new house and parked the XT in the new to me driveway. The asphalt is pretty soft and I noticed one of the jackstands sank into it a bit. I jumped up and down on the back bumper and everything seemed solid so I got under the car and did the job no problem. The next day I decided to do the pads and rotors and put the car on stands again, but in a different part of the driveway. I had all but one tire off (front passenger) as I changed the front rotors and pads and bled all the brakes. As I was bleeding the rear calipers I noticed one of the jack stands sunk way in the asphalt and was tipping so I hurried up and slid one of the wheels under the car in front of the rear wheel well. I ran to the front of the car and put another wheel on finger tight. Next I grabbed the jack and was rolling it around the car so I could jack the car up and stabilize it. As I was doing that, the rear jack stands tipped over all the way and the car fell off the stands!!!!! Fortunately the wheel I slid under the car kept if off the ground and kept everything from getting destroyed. I was able to jack the car up and get it back on stands, this time with pieces of plywood under the jack stands so it didn't sink in. After that I wasn't in the mood to do the rear pads, lol. I'll do them this weekend though. Thank god I wasn't under the car or sitting under one of the wheel wells when it fell off. I always try and be safe when jacking up a car but this shows that even with being careful a disaster can happen. When I removed the front driver's side caliper the bolts were super rusted on and the bottom bolt stripped when I removed it. So yesterday I replaced the caliper bracket and bolts and everything is all good again. It was making a horrible clunking noise when I went over bumps since the caliper wasn't completely tight because of the stripped bolt.