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Humble Rumble

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Humble Rumble last won the day on November 3 2022

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About Humble Rumble

  • Birthday 01/26/1987

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    Chicago Suburbs
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    2012 Legacy 3.6R Base (XRT Tuned)

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    Stumble Bumble

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  1. Hey, just a quick word of warning. I have the Type RA STI 6-pot's on mine, which are a 340mm rotors, and the minimum size possible for them is 18" wheels. Being that you're going for 355, I really don't think 17" BBS will have any chance to fit at all. At the very least, even just test fitting them, you're extremely likely to scuff both the edge surface of the caliper and the inner surface of the wheel. If they do somehow fit over the calipers, you're going to have 1-2mm of clearance at best. Another thing to consider is wheel width. If I recall, JDM Forester BBS wheels are typically 7" wide, 7.5" at most, never seen 8" or wider. Subaru themselves state that the minimum specs to fit my style of 6-pot Brembos is 18x8.5 +55. The older 4-pot Brembos are a much smaller caliper than 6-pots. Granted, there are lower profile Brembo calipers out there than the STI ones, but honestly I would just save yourself the trouble and prepare to wear 18's or larger permanently.
  2. Don't recall the full list of what you've tried to cure this, but just to be sure: have you tried replacing both O2 sensors already? And if so, have you tried investigating the plug/wire that the O2 sensors plug into to make sure they're intact, not cut/frayed, and the plug doesn't have any burned or corroded contacts? I ran into a similar issue a couple years back chasing down an issue with the radiator fans not working, and after everything I tried it ended up being a corroded contact inside the main fan control harness plug. Might be worth a look-see if you haven't done that already.
  3. They definitely introduced some additional NVH. I would not recommend them for a car being used as a daily or a commuter, but depending on your tolerances they might be suitable for a weekend cruiser or spirited fun car/occasional track use. It is definitely a noticeable increase in NVH though, but not so much so that you can't get used to it as long as you're familiar with more "racecar-esque" aimed cars.
  4. I don't know of any USDM cars that have ever actually fit the 5th gen JDM Bilsteins, I believe there was some difference that made them not fit properly or something (i think s2baru attempted years back but i don't exactly recall). From what I've heard from overseas owners, they're roughly comparable to the 4th gen Bilsteins. Also, on the note of the Konis, I believe that the same Koni struts are used for both 4th and 5th gen (I know at very least that the front strut-insert is the same part number, and rears are the same as 08-14 WRX).
  5. There was no factory Bilsteins for the USDM 5th gens. I'd say the best comparable setup to what you had previously would be H&R 3.6R springs ("-2" suffix on the part number) paired with either 13/14 versionOEM/Rockauto struts, or if you want more, Koni Yellow struts if you want adjustable damping, though you'll need to cut some donor front struts to harvest their strut housings for the Koni's. I had the Koni+H&R combo and was sublime, absolutely perfect sports sedan handling and ride, and could get racetrack stiff if you wanted to on the hardest damping setting.
  6. It's not. 4th gen mounts and 5th gen mounts are different. All 5th gens share the same rear engine mounts as each other though. 4th gen: 5th gen:
  7. Some recent purchases I've made. These are mostly to switch up my car's visual style, but some will also have some performance/efficiency effects as well. First up, a Nismo Z-Tune/URAS/D-MAX style hood vent from g.r.a.m.s. styling. My thought with this is that a vent of this style makes significantly more sense for a 3.6R than a scooped GT hood would. This will greatly improve heat evacuation from the engine bay, improve front end grip and aero with the air coming out of the hood going over the car, and cut a good chunk of weight by replacing a fairly large area of steel with lighter FRP. Short term plan is to cut the hood and rivet the vent into place to get it up and functional, long term plan is to fiberglass mold it into the hood to make it look OEM-ish. Next up are two country/continent/hemisphere firsts (to my knowledge). Firstly, Gialla Sportivo side skirts, to my knowledge the first set in North America. These are absolutely NOT direct fit, but fortunately enough, the forward-most and rear-most underside mounting holes are identical to USDM (the rest are not for some dumb reason), so it can at least be roughly mounted in place, and the front-to-back length is identical. It will take some trimming and fiberglassing to get the fit right, but my plan is to complete that and then get them 3D-scanned so that they can be more easily reproduced and finally give USDM a REAL side-skirt option that isn't just a tack-on. Lastly is the one I'm most excited about, and surprisingly might be the easiest to complete: North America's first S-Craft Front Aero Bumper, with dedicated carbon lip! Ordered this new from S-Craft in mid-April, 75-90 days production time, similar shipping time via container ship (hey I'll take a 3 month ship time to spend <$100 rather than $20k+ for freight lmao). Typically to use any of the cool JDM aftermarket front bumpers, a full JDM front swap is required. This includes JDM hood, JDM front bumper support, JDM light brackets, JDM grille, and of course the JDM/aftermarket bumper/lip of your choice. A JDM bumper+grille -can- be fitted to a USDM hood, but it will leave a gap above the grille due to the difference in shape between the two grille. Since the S-Craft bumper has an integrated grille, my plan with this is attempt to simplify the conversion with the S-Craft front end to eliminate the need for the JDM hood (which is typically the most cost-restrictive part of the swap due to size, weight, and shipping costs) and only need the bumper support and light brackets. I have a handful of ways I can go about this. My first thought was to cut the top edge of the integrated grille off and cut up a USDM-shape mesh grille frame, and attach the top edge of the mesh to the place where I cut the integrated grille edge off, and fiberglass them together. Alternatively, I could leave the S-Craft grille edge in place and just attach the USDM frame edge to the top of it to fill the gap. This would also create a unique "double slot" visual style as well. Lastly, I could just leave it as is run it, as the gap above the grille really isn't all that atrocious, and would provide a touch of additional airflow. I probably won't go this route, but it is at least an option. I haven't gotten a JDM bumper support and light brackets yet, but I was excited and did the best I could to fit up the bumper with the USDM crash bar. This is as close as it will fit (I didn't feel like removing the crash bar because my trans cooler is attached to it. Cut and replace option: Attach on top method: Test fit with USDM crash bar:
  8. People totally under estimate just how much even brand new OEM engine mounts will improve this platforms response and feel since the rear mounts are literally ON the transmission itself and function as trans mounts too. Especially considering that the youngest 5th gens are now 11 years old, even if the car has literally no miles on it, the rubber in the mounts will be suffering from age fatigue and not performing their best. I have the Kein hardened mounts on mine and the immediate acceleration feedback difference compared to before is insane, feels like it just pulls forever now. It also completely eliminated the hesitation and shift shock when shifting down into 1st, which is something 99% of 3.6R drivers complain about. Smoother than butter now, totally worthwhile maintenance item or upgrade for anyone.
  9. After some brute force research spurred on by kattz's topic on gauge cluster swapping, I went through multiple part number families on parts.subaru .com and compiled a list of all part numbers I could find for gauge cluster. NOTE: It seems that all gauge clusters actually have two part numbers in two specific formats: 85002AJ/85003AJ/85004AJ will be the part numbers on the physical cluster itself, while 85021AJ will be the part number in Subaru's parts system that can be used for re-ordering a new unit. It seems that Subaru compiled all USDM 5th gen gauge clusters within the 85021AJ part number family, as barring a few gaps every single numerical part number from 85021AJ00A to 85021AJ68A is populated. These are mostly broken down by year, model, engine, trans, and trim, though there are some duplicates and some that seem to be "sub-master" part numbers for catch-alls (i.e. all 2010 6MTs, or all 2010 CVTs, etc). I brute-forced the 85021AJ family on parts.subaru .com, manually checking every suffix from 00A to 99A. OBK = Outback LMTD = Limited trim Bs = Base model PM = Premium trim (includes the "Plus" trim from facelift) TG = Touring trim EYE = Eyesight model [THE 85021AJ LIST] 85021AJ00A - 2010 USDM 2.5i 6MT 85021AJ01A - 2010 USDM 2.5GT 85021AJ02A - 2010 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ03A - 2010 USDM 3.6R OBK 85021AJ04A - 2010 USDM 3.6R 85021AJ05A - 2010 USDM 2.5i 6MT 85021AJ06A - 2010 USDM 2.5GT LMTD 85021AJ07A - 2010 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ08A - 2010 USDM 3.6R OBK 85021AJ09A - 2010 USDM 3.6R 85021AJ10A - 2010 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ11A - 2010 USDM 3.6R OBK LMTD 85021AJ12A - 2010 USDM 3.6R LMTD 85021AJ13A - 2011 USDM 2.5i 6MT 85021AJ14A - 2011 USDM 2.5i 6MT 85021AJ15A - 2011 USDM 2.5GT 85021AJ16A - 2011 USDM 3.6R OBK 85021AJ17A - 2011 USDM 3.6R 85021AJ18A - 2011 USDM 2.5i 6MT 85021AJ19A - 2011 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ20A - 2011 USDM 2.5GT LMTD 85021AJ21A - 2011 USDM 3.6R OBK 85021AJ22A - 2011 USDM 3.6R 85021AJ23A - 2011 USDM 2.5i LMTD 85021AJ24A - 2011 USDM 3.6R OBK LMTD 85021AJ25A - 2011 USDM 3.6R LMTD 85021AJ26A - 2012 USDM 2.5i 6MT 85021AJ27A - 2012 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ28A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** 85021AJ29A - 2012 USDM 2.5GT LMTD -DISCONTINUED 85021AJ30A - 2012 USDM 3.6R OBK 85021AJ31A - 2012 USDM 3.6R 85021AJ32A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** 85021AJ33A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** 85021AJ34A - 2012 USDM 2.5i 6MT Bs/PM 85021AJ35A - 2012 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ36A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** 85021AJ37A - 2012 USDM 2.5GT LMTD -DISCONTINUED 85021AJ38A - 2012 USDM 3.6R OBK -DISCONTINUED 85021AJ39A - 2012 USDM 3.6R -DISCONTINUED 85021AJ40A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** 85021AJ41A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** 85021AJ42A - 2012 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ43A - 2012 USDM 3.6R OBK LMTD -DISCONTINUED 85021AJ44A - 2012 USDM 3.6R LMTD -DISCONTINUED 85021AJ45A - 2013 USDM 2.5i LMTD/TG 85021AJ46A - 2013 USDM 2.5i 6MT 85021AJ47A - 2013 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ48A - 2013 USDM 3.6R OBK Bs/PM 85021AJ49A - 2013 USDM 3.6R Bs/PM 85021AJ50A - 2013 USDM 2.5i 6MT Bs/PM 85021AJ51A - 2013 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ52A - 2013 USDM 3.6R OBK PM 85021AJ53A - 2013 USDM 3.6R PM 85021AJ54A - 2013 USDM 2.5i EYE 85021AJ55A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** 85021AJ56A - 2013 USDM 3.6R OBK LTMD/TG 85021AJ57A - 2013 USDM 3.6R LMTD 85021AJ58A - 2013 USDM 3.6R OBK EYE 85021AJ59A - 2013 USDM 3.6R EYE 85021AJ60A - 2013 USDM 2.5i 85021AJ61A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** 85021AJ62A - 2013 USDM 3.6R OBK LMTD 85021AJ63A - 2013 USDM 3.6R LMTD 85021AJ64A - 2013 USDM 3.6R OBK LMTD EYE 85021AJ65A - 2013 USDM 3.6R LMTD EYE 85021AJ66A - 2013 USDM 2.5i LMTD 85021AJ67A - 2013 USDM 3.6R OBK LMTD 85021AJ68A - 2013 USDM 3.6R LMTD 85021AJ69A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** through 85021AJ99A - ***NON-EXISTENT*** As for the part numbers on the physical cluster's themselves, I brute forced these with Google, and these are all the ones I was able to find specific picture evidence of existing, and which model/market they belong to. To note: 85002AJ is exclusively 2010, 85003AJ3 is exclusively 2011, 85003AJ6 is exclusively 2012, and 85004AJ is 2013+ (all with some exceptions given the markets). I didn't feel like doing these entire 4 families of part numbers a full second time, so maybe at some point in the future I'll dig into the separate markets and attempt to fill this list out further, and possibly correlate all of them to the 85021AJ numbers. 85002AJ01A - 2010 USDM 2.5i 85002AJ02A - 2010 USDM 2.5GT 85002AJ05A - 2010 USDM 2.5i 85002AJ08A - 2010 USDM 3.6R OBK 85002AJ09A - 2010 USDM 3.6R 85002AJ15A - 2010 CnDM 2.5i 85002AJ19A - 2010 CnDM 3.6R 85003AJ30A - 2011 USDM 2.5i 85003AJ31A - 2011 USDM 2.5i OBK 85003AJ33A - 2011 USDM 3.6R 85003AJ34A - 2011 USDM 3.6R 85003AJ36A - 2011 CnDM 2.5i 85003AJ60A - 2012 USDM 2.5i 6MT 85003AJ61A - 2012 USDM 2.5i 85003AJ64A - 2012 USDM 3.6R (OBK??) 85003AJ65A - 2012 USDM 3.6R 85004AJ04A - 2013 CnDM 2.5i 85004AJ05A - 2013 CnDM 2.5i 85003AJ23A - 2011 RuDM 2.5i (180 km/h) 85003AJ24A - 2011 RuDM 3.6R (260 km/h) 85003AJ40A - 2011 RuDM 2.5i (240 km/h) 85003AJ41A - 2011 RuDM 2.5i (240 km/h) OBK 85003AJ42A - 2011 RuDM 3.6R (260 km/h) 85003AJ76A - 2012 RuDM 2.5i (240 km/h) 85003AJ78A - 2012 KoDM 3.6R (260 km/h)
  10. *3.6R but thank you either way. I love my car and it's uniqueness.
  11. Ok, part numbers for the 5th gen gauge clusters were weird. Typically when a part number dies/is discontinued, Subaru will leave the page active on the main parts.subaru page so that it can be searched, and just put "This Product Is Not Currently Available" in place of where "add to cart" usually is. This is up to and including the JDM front end parts used on the 2009 SEMA VIP 5th gen, which were literally JDM parts with USDM part numbers, to the point you can still find those part numbers with some digging and they'll be marked "For SEMA Use Only". However, Subaru made TONS of revisions to the gauge clusters for 5th gens, and there's no real rhyme or reason as to when and why. There's even small weird changes like moving the TPMS warning light from inside the tachometer on a 2011 3.6R to above the tach tucked in left of the gear display on a 2012 3.6R. What's even weirder is how many of these dead but real part numbers do NOT exist on the parts.subaru page. ***AFTER SOME BRUTE FORCE RESEARCH*** Ok so I'm going to make a separate post for what I've found after brute forcing every part number in the 85002AJ, 85003AJ, and 85021AJ families (I'm concerned with 85004AJ as that's 2013 and onwards) but basically it appears that all clusters actually technically have 2 part numbers: the one physically on the cluster (which will be 85002AJ/85003AJ/85004AJ/etc), and the ones in Subaru's parts system for re-ordering, which is the entirety of the 85021AJ family. It seems Subaru consolidated all the 5th gen clusters under the 85021AJ, as barring a small handful of gaps, every single numerical part number between 85021AJ000 and 85021AJ68 is populated on parts.subaru .com, with the majority still being purchasable. Unfortunately, a handful of 2012 cluster part numbers are discontinued (likely since 2012 was a weird transition year to the mid-model facelift, in which 2012's had pre-facelift bodies but some facelift features, like the steering wheel), including the two part numbers for the 2012 2.5GT. However, FUNCTIONALLY, if you're getting the mileage reprogrammed anyways, the 2010 and 2011 GT clusters should be interchangeable, and you can still get any of the following part numbers: 85021AJ01A - 2010 USDM 2.5GT 85021AJ06A - 2010 USDM 2.5GT LMTD 85021AJ15A - 2011 USDM 2.5GT 85021AJ20A - 2011 USDM 2.5GT LMTD I would say if you're going to order it new, go with the 2011 2.5GT LMTD, since all 2012 GT's were LMTD anyways, it should be the closest match. Only physical difference I'm aware of between the two is the location of the TPMS light.
  12. Been slacking on posting updates for months, so prepare for a big picture dump post. September - Had a small rust bubble starting on my roof that got a bit out of control during the time my car was sitting last year, so I got my roof repainted, and while I was at it I had the shop doing my roof also paint an extra trunk lid and the TommyKaira (Rowen) wing for me as well. Went with body color for the base and gloss black for the blade and end caps. Installed the new trunk lid, assembled and installed the TommyKaira (Rowen) wing. Opted for the low-drag blade alignment rather than high-downforce. This is the 3rd one of these wings in North America but the only one with the TommyKaira branding (other two have "Rowen"). Surprisingly, this spoiler mounts without bolts, and uses entirely 3M adhesive tape and small side clips that going around the edge of the trunk lid (my clips are missing) so install was painless and is completely reversible. Fitment is fantastic and the wing follows the trunk curve perfectly, and I love this spoiler way more in person than I thought I would. It extends backwards off the trunk (when looking profile view) a tasteful amount and overall just looks really great. Black blade and endplates was the right call as well. The wing flows with the entire car much better than the Wangan wing I had on there before, and I like how its wider and more visible from the front view. The day after installing this wing (and throwing some flashy taillights on), I participated in Tuner Evolution Chicago along with Four Star Society. We rolled in nearly 30 cars deep and ended up taking 6 total awards from the show as a collective group, including both Group Participation (size) and Group Quality (level of builds). It was an awesome experience and I'm really happy with how the car was looking for this event. The weekend after Tuner Evo, I participated in Subaru Speed Expo 2023 at Autobahn Country Club South Course. It was overall an awesome event and the car felt better than it's ever felt before. It felt like I could truly trust it and drive it to its grip limits and really huck it into corners. I was genuinely one of the fastest cars in my run class, and got tons of compliments on both the car and my driving. The last session of the day ended up raining but they still let us go out, so it ended up being a low speed drift run lmao. Absolute blast of a way to cool down after a fun race day. One of the coolest things I got to do during SSE was participate in the mid-day on-track vendor roller shot groups. The paint shop who did my roof, trunk, and spoiler invited me to go out with them and their shop cars, and it made for some of the downright coolest pictures that exist of my car. Super neat experience to be a part of. The week after Speed Expo was SubieFest Midwest. As I've done in the past, I entered my car into the Turbo Stock class since the NA class is typically super small and completely unfair when I'm in it (my first ever autox at SubieFest 2018 I won the NA class by 6 seconds lmao) and my times fit much, much better with the Turbo Stock class. It's been a goal of mine to win the Turbo Stock class without a turbo, and I damn near did it this year. I ended up run 2nd in the class, missing 1st by only .5xx seconds. It was disappointing, but the gentleman that took 1st had gotten 2nd the last 3 years in a row, so it was well deserved and he did some great driving. One of my favorite events of the year, car always gets a ton of attention since it's screaming loud and the entire autox course is ringed by spectator spaces. Can't want for next year. Also got my first 3-wheeling pic lmao.
  13. Here. Metal side of the body behind the carpeting near the brakelight. Perfect spot imo.
  14. Did you intentionally get the clear VLEDS V6 instead of the red version? I have the V3 red Tritons in my brakelights and the color is a really nice, rich, deep red rather than orange. Either way, your best bet to match the color is to stick with a VLEDs product. They have a cheaper, non-triton 7440 bulbs you can use (you don't need the dual brightness of the 7443 for the trunk bulbs). If you got the clear bulbs for your brakelights, just get the clear ones of these too. I have the red versions of these in my trunk lights. I believe you can still use the SUBARU10 coupon code for 10% off the order too, or wait till a sale. Clear: 50 LED WHITE 7440 (vleds.com) Red: 50 LED RED 7443 7443CK 7440 (vleds.com)
  15. They are just running lights that are on when the headlights are on for USDM. USDM models don't have a rear foglight of any sort.
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