SageAbkatsor

JMP will do either a stock rebuild or a “custom” rebuild. The custom rebuild will use A billet compressor wheel. Either way he is focused on giving you something reliable. But the stock rebuild, I don’t believe will get you any more power than a normal VF52. A VF52 should give a bit of an increase over the stock VF40, but if you’re looking for 300awhp I think the custom is a better fit if you do go with the VF. I’m sure 300 is possible with a standard VF52 though. As far as a comparison to a BNR I am no help there. I am still on break in on my engine so my JMP hasn’t seen boost yet, and I wouldn’t have experience with a BNR to compare even if it had. Don’t know the cost on a BNR but I think JMP will do a rebuild for around $800 for a custom, less for a standard rebuild. That’s if you supply the core. Idk what he charges for a core but it’s not much I think, but idk if he always has a stock of them. The only other thing to consider is lead time. JMP is just one man, and he does not do this full time. It took a few weeks to ship my turbo there and for him to rebuild and get it back to me. It could be more or less for you depending on how many others he has in front of yours and what else he has going on in his life. Doesn’t sound like that’s an issue for you if you decide sooner than later though.

This is such a fantastic thread. Wagons4Life

This build has me drooling. I wish I had the means to go this far... One day maybe I will have a workspace like that... I am probably $16k short of your budget and $16k would get me pretty damn close to where I want to go, though still not with a brand new fuel tank and being able to fully disassemble everything and stuff like that. It is really the right way to do something like this. I wish every Legacy GT was able to get this kind of treatment, I think they all deserve it (well, at least the wagons do) This is all soooo good.

Not trying to revive a dead thread, but I thought I should post a resolution to my problem in case someone finds this in the future. I took everything apart at about -6 degrees F in February. Was terrible, but it was worth it because I got the car started. I took the pump assembly out and immediately found one of the plastic clips that hold one of the hoses tight to the body of the filter with an o-ring was not fully seated. Uncertain whether or not that might have been something that came undone while I was removing the assembly I proceeded to dissemble things further, to check my work. I verified everything else was correct. The plastic spacer really only fits one way. I only used one O-ring because... well that just makes more sense to me. Everything worked perfectly from there.

Did you do plugs when you did the headgaskets? We’re the valve clearances checked when the heads were rebuilt? I am assuming so... Have you checked the number 2 plug or coil?

From my understanding there is not a lot you can do to the N/A cars to boost performance. Tuning makes anything possible but how far the stock internals can go I am not sure. And of course if you build something with forged internals you can probably make some decent power with the right supporting mods. I have seen a few cold air intakes on N/A cars but from my understanding the stock Subaru Airbox breaths just fine up to around 400 horse on the turbo cars. I can’t imagine that does anything for you. I have seen plenty of Subaru both turbo and non that have exhaust mods. The right exhaust maybe gets you a bump on the N/A cars if it were tuned for properly. But just tuning it in general would be the most substantial bump in power I think you would see of any individual bolt on or plug and play type mod you could do to a stock N/A Subaru. Not that tuning is either bolt on or plug and play unless using an OTS map, but most modifications should be tuned for in my opinion. So if you look at just a tune, vs tune plus exhaust I bet the difference is not too far off, especially if it is just a catback. Suspension is where I would focus my efforts on a “performance” N/A Subaru. I would like to buy a clean N/A legacy wagon, but I would not be modifying the engine or engine performance. If I did exhaust it would be for the sound only.

From my experience at the dealership this was pretty common on this generation of outback/legacy. Most common was the hinge on the handle itself becomes corroded, and then when the door is opened the handle stays in the open position. This will prevent the door from properly closing as it won’t latch but it will also prevent it from locking of course. I saw this all to often. Normally people didn’t want to pay to fix it so you just show them how to return the handle into the closed position and then the door will close and lock. Next most common was like max capacity said. The wiring at the top of the door under the accordion rubber boot will go bad from flexing so many times over the years. Rear gate harness has to be replaced.

I’ll add my name to the hat, I also have a JMP custom VF52. I can’t review it because I only just had my first drive on Wednesday and have a lot of break in period in front of me before I stretch her legs. But I can say John took care of me and the final product exudes quality.

Hmmmm... It has been too long since I did it to recall exactly if that got moved over. I guess I am pulling my pump. But you are saying two O rings should be above the spacer. I am pretty confident there was only 1 o-ring on my stock set up EDIT: I do remember seeing that spacer though, so I am pretty sure it got moved over, but I definitely did not use two O rings.

Aeromotive FPR. But the issue has to be before the FPR. If we hook up a tube to the feed line under the hood and key on, shouldn't it dump out fuel? Or is the return line being hooked to the FPR doing something I am not aware of? EDIT: A1000 Gen 2 FPR. I used the two side ports for the lines from the rails to the FPR and used the bottom port for the return line. Per IAG: https://www.iagperformance.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/instructions/IAG/FUEL-RAILS/IAG-Fuel-Rails-with-6-Aftermarket-FPR-Diagram.pdf

My buddy and I just put the final touches on my build, got the engine primed and made sure nothing is leaking. But now the fuel system will not prime. When we key on we can hear the pump, or something in the pump area, make some noise for a few seconds. Hooked up a hose to the fuel feed line in the engine bay and we can get a couple drops of fuel every now and then, but it is virtually nothing. I wanted to ask here before I go any further just in case anyone has any ideas. I am 99.9% certain that I put the O ring on the pump when I replaced it with the AEM 50-1215. I had read about people having that issue before I did mine so I don't think I missed it. It seemed like a very straightforward install. Everything we looked into pointed to either the pump itself, an issue with the pump install, or the tune. I am almost positive it is not the tune so I am planning to pull the pump and check my install as my next step. Like I said just seeing if anyone had any other ideas for me to check out. I have heard mention of a spacer next to the O-ring. I don't think the old one had a spacer and the new one I dont think came with a spacer. Thoughts?

Yeah you would run into issues with clearance on the TMIC with the 8mm, or so I have been told. I went 3mm as well. One thing to note on the IAG TGVs is that there are no provisions for the bracket that secures your coolant expansion tank. I think there is a bracket on the driver side too with some grounds, but that is not as difficult of a puzzle to solve.

I just wanted to share my experience with engine priming last night. I was following IAG’s engine priming and break in instructions. It says to pre-fill oil filter, disconnect crank position sensor, and then crank the engine in 15-20 second intervals until the oil pressure light goes off. We followed these instructions but after maybe 5-10 15 second cranks, the oil pressure light would still not go off. Looked everything over and nothing is leaking, my builder is confident in everything he has done, so what gives? I was fortunate enough to find this video: The issue was that we pre filled the oil filter. The air bubble between the oil in the sump/pump and the oil in the filter is able to pressurize but not enough to force the oil in the filter out. We did as this video instructed and pulled the filter, nervously cranked until oil came out. Reattached the filter, still pre-filled, and then proceeded to prime it again. Within about 2 or 3 15 second cranks the light went out. I am now slightly nervous about the amount of cranking that was done, but my builder told me not to worry about it. It wasn’t a lot of cranking, and that is what assembly lube is for. Plus IAG builds quality stuff. Still, was a little bit of a nail biter for a second there. Again, just figured I would share my experience. TLDR; if you pre-fill your oil filter, it may prevent you from properly priming your engines oil system.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/radiator-hoses/tcs464-anc-wrx-blu-samco-ancillary-hose-kit-blue RSD says this does not fit 2005 LGT, but I can confirm fitment of all of these lines. I called rally sport direct and got them in black. Does not have vacuum lines though. Also got the Samco BPV hose. Went with Perrin for all of the other intake hoses (after MAF, inlet, and intercooler to throttle body). Only thing I’m missing is the upper and lower radiator hoses, but mine were brand new OEM so I’ll do those in the future. I just bought all brand new vacuum lines from the Subaru dealer for everything else.

Installing fuel pump today. Wish I had gone the AEM route, but also kinda glad I went Aeromotive. This is not plug and play lol. I called Aeromotive and they said that this is the correct way to make an E85 pump though as the submerged connector creates electrolysis in E85. In regular gas that is fine to have that connector submerged but not in E85. This is why Aeromotive uses bonded wires... Now the question is commit and hard wire my pump, or bail and sell this and get the AEM. I know the recommendation from everyone here is to go AEM, and AEM says E85 compatible, but I do believe what Aeromotive is saying about electrolysis. The only thing is... I am not running E85... while I plan to in the future, that may be a ways out yet. EDIT: ordered the AEM pump last night...