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Bootyologist

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  • Location
    Minneapolis, MN
  • Car
    2011 Legacy 3.6R Limited

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  1. you don't need a tactrix cable for pulling codes. a $20 amazon OBD2 bluetooth scanner works great Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
  2. there are a bunch of us in the FB group that have overlays. these eBay ones look amazing, but im concerned about them being a single piece. the jdm ones we have are multiple pieces. background, tach, speedo, fuel, and mpg. the benefit of multiple pieces is that the chrome rings and needles don't need to be removed to install the overlays. I took my chrome rings off and ended up breaking the little pegs that hold them to the gauges. took some super glue to reattach. you can see the array of small holes where those pegs go in the eBay photos. the jdm ones are out of production. a random pops up in the Yahoo auctions every now and then. they are also kph, so the tach and speedo don't line up. I've got a spare gauge cluster lying around so maybe I'll order an overlay to experiment with. nice find, btw!! here's a photo of just the background from the jdm set. edit - just noticed the eBay sets are kph and come from Russia. damn. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  3. Tim, thanks to your fantastic write up and this YouTube vid ( ) I decided to tackle these tonight. 2 hours, a pint of blood, and some f*ckwords and I got her done. That driver rear was a beast. If I would've had a flex head socket, it would've been a million times easier. I opted not to buy one tonight when I was hazardfraught cause I figured my combo of stubby extensions, u joints, and wobblybois would work. what a pain. Next up on the 100k list - throttle body cleaning and diff/tranny oil. Gotta keep them trannys lubed, hrrmmm. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  4. are you in the Facebook 5th gen group? Im sure the brace would sell immediately on there. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  5. The 3.6 engine absolutely does not need to be lifted to replace the plugs. Battery and intake need to come out, but those are easy. My indie mechanic charges me $200 to do plugs. Timmy B did a fantastic write up on how to do them if you're feeling adventurous. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  6. the front splash guards don't fit usdm skirts. if you can find the rears, those definitely fit. I'm pretty confident the front bumper bits won't work as the JDM/USDM bumpers are different. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  7. If these are JDM, I'm pretty sure they won't fit the USDM knuckles. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  8. I did the oversized tire thing for a couple years. (235 50 18). looked great, but the rears would rub if I had people in the back seats. I went back to stock size once I realized it was throwing off my odometer reading. it was probably off by about 1500 miles over a 2 year period. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  9. did you use any liquid gasket on the threads of the pcv valve? I'm swapping mine out when it warms up. shop manual says to use some. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  10. wouldn't getting the gialla painted cost about the same as the $400 lips/skirts??? the gialla is way too sexy to be neglecting... Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
  11. I also have a clunk on my koni + 13/14 spring combo. it was also there with koni/rce and koni/eibach. I tried new top hats but it was still there. it was much worse in cold weather below 40, which is about 7 months of the year in Minnesota. I took them off and put on a fully assembled set of 13/14 oem struts and springs and the noise went away. during one of my spring swaps, I checked to make the inserts were bottomed out in the donors and they were. no idea where the damn noise was coming from. frustrating Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
  12. mine is the opposite. the softer the rebound is set on the konis, the more it happens. I go stiffer and it's less frequent. it's not the endlinks as I swapped those out a couple months ago, which solved one of my other rattles. 1 yr old oem, and they were noisy. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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