MoleMan

Don't start with the JDM sway bar stuff. It just always sounds ricey to me. It's like the folks that keep pushing muffler deletes. No offense ment at all Just either put the set from Whiteline or put a Cusco rear bar on. I cannot remember the size specific. But I think the Whiteline set is 26mm rear 27mm front. It is well worth getting the set. If you wanna go further get the Cusco front strut tower brace. Just don't right is what I am saying. Total set up I believe is about $600 or so. But it's been a while since I bought my parts. I think the seats were about $300 the endlinks maybe $100 and the strut tower brace was $250. Of course you don't need to go Cusco on the brace but I think it looks the best. On top of that it's easily removed with the quick releases. If you don't have the funds now I would just buy when able and install. Once again you could just go with a bigger rear sway but I have personally found the car tighter when the sways are more matched. My setup is Whiteline front and rear seats with Whiteline endlinks and a Cusco strut tower brace. Very little boty roll. Can still take tighter canyon curves at 70 without issue. If you are knocking it could be a LCA bushing or a link. Is the knocking coming from the Billsteins? Or is it more below? If you are getting an alignment they should pick up on a bad LCA bushing. But some don't.

Just search for it on Google. It comes up plain as day. The Legacy is not very popular anymore. Sorta like my Lexus GS 350. Great car just sales numbers went away so they cut production all together. I personally think an electric Outback or Crosstrek option would sell like hotcakes.

Key word on this is "connected vehicles" According to Subaru the sixth Gens like ours don't connect to Starlink anymore due to the cell coverage requirements changing. So In our case it's a non issue. I can see seventh Gen owners having issues if they drive like asshats. Anyway insurance rates have rose for everyone. People are driving very aggressive as of recent.

LexisNexis is a credit reporting agency. And most consumers do not even know about them as most credit pulls are done by the "big 3" Selling consumer date will never be on a public reporting service or credit reporting service. You insurance provider is who buys the information. Everyone is raising rates. So they can use anything as an excuse to raise rates up to and including saying your car date says you do 5 over the limit etc so on etc.. Generally you can push it and the will do a soft pull and the rate will always drop because they know issues will happen if the push the date thing. In our cars we have not agreed to anything. I don't pay for starlink or any services so nothing should be tracked. Honestly I only thing 7th Gens may be tracked but IDK. Info know both our Lexus vehicles are not tracked at all. Then again I get the point. But if you are driving like an ass I also agree with insurance raising rates.

Possibly. More mid size sedans are getting cut from lineups. Going all small SUV and hybrid/electric. Toyotas partnership probably plays a huge role in this. Makes me think they will start cutting other lower selling models in segments. I can see the Legacy and the Ascent cut first. They won't touch the Outback, Forrester and Impreza lineup for a bit. Who knows on the crosstreks as they are good selling. WRX will probably stay. But die hard fans are already gone from the brand on the new models. Will be interesting!

Once again. Take it to a gosh darn shop and tell them you have a clunking sound going over bumps. Do not tell them you looked at anything and it's fine etc.. just say I have a clunking sound. Your mechanic is going off what you are saying. The EPS issue does not "clunk" it's more of an annoying rattle. Your issue is a control arm bushing or a broken endlink. That's it. A professional mechanic even gave you advice on this forum. If you choose to keep ignoring the recommendation thats up to you. My 3.6 does not clunk when steering and I have not had the EPS spring replaced. My modded 3.0R does not clunk on steering, my 2.5 does not clunk on steering both of those do not have EPS. And if we want to go further with EPS cars. My two Lexus's don't clunk when steering, my Camry V6 never clunked when I owned it. And my Scion TC does not clunk when steering. Seems to me that your guy cannot even tell the car has a broken suspension component. Or is the reason you are telling him or her that you checked it out and it's fine? Stop with the EPS excuse and take the advice given already dude. Your video exactly sounds like a broken LCA bushing or endlink to me. It will make that sound turning lock to lock. Once again take it somewhere and just tell them you have a clunking sound going over bumps. Stop trying to guess yourself.

The dust shields behind the rotors should be real thin tin. Did you replace them with plastic? Another thought is maybe some small rocks or small pebbles under a plastic cover somewhere. I have had this issue on every Lexus and Toyota I have ever owned. Sometimes it gets annoying. It just rattled like a spray can sometimes.

What about the rubber mounts the rear cans are held in place to? I know I had a rattle and it was the fact the muffler came loose from the rubber mount. I had a similar issue in my 3.0R. same type of sound. Turns out it was the cat heat shield. But for some reason the noise was coming from the rear. Sounds sometimes can be nowhere near where we think they are coming from. Another thought is the tin dust shield behind the wheels. That can get bent real easy. I have had issues with that I. The past having the same noise you are describing as well.

No problem. Added pic just in case for reference. Mine is an 18 but I do not think they would go from Red to White on the 19 considering it was the last year of the Generation. Dealer probably has two part numbers and guessed wrong. But all the sixth gen should have the same bulbs. Maybe he thought it was a seventh Gen? But IDK about the lights on those. Glad I could help.

And the answer is Red! In the picture it makes the P,N, and R look White for some reason. But I can verify it's Red. The Parking Brake button and the hill decent button are also Red. And the M-D does not light up. Probably because you can see it on the center display between the Speedo and Tach.

I believe the white are correct. However I may be wrong since I rarely look at the color of the shift console lights. Let me jump in the Leggy later(have to start it anyway) and put the lights on. I'll let you know.

I would stick with the Fumoto. With me never had an issue with the product as well and the gasket material is being nitpicky if I wanted to gripe. The way I look at it yes it's cleaner. But still gotta replace the oil filter. But on the daily that had the Fumoto I did notice that 3.75 quarts came out with the filter not the four that normally came out. I am the guy who lets the oil drain for a half hour to make sure every drop comes out and it's on ramps on an angle so it's easy to do that. Great product just decided that for me the plug was a better way. Depending on what engine the Fumoto makes things way easier especially if your filter is on top it's clean. With bottom mounted filters for me it's easier with the plug. But once again great product. I am glad we share the same opinion with Kia. At least yours drives without needing a quart of oil every 200 miles lol.

I cannot agree with you more. Traffic in my area consists of 80 MPH freeway speeds and maybe some occasional 18 wheeler that is slow to pass another. Love wide open country! Love the ACC and eyesight. When I do go to the next major city 150 miles away(population rate is 1.5 million)I could never do a manual. My wifes S4 is manual and I hate driving that thing even in light traffic. Awesome car but with a previous back injury it makes things 10 times worse. But Subaru saw a market. I just with they would have put a non CVT in that car.

Not as bad as before? So you never had anyone even look at the suspension professionally after two members advised you to do so one being a professional mechanic? And the Subaru advisor does not know anything! These guys job is to make money off you. They are not professional mechanics. Some are OK and can tell you something at least. But most are just there to take your complaint and pass it along to the mechanics and sell you those cabin air filter replacements that need to be done now for only $80 bucks lol. I have a bad LCA on my Honda. I know its bad because it clunks. and I have the issue once a year. The bushings fail due to the roadways. Its not the endlink because those are brand new. However I am not going to just go to my mechanic and say I already looked and the LCA is fine. I am just going to say the car has a clunk please fix. I wish you the best. But the issue has nothing to do with the EPS TSB. It is a suspension issue. the EPS issue is more of a rattle over low speed surfaces. I know its there. I have have not had the TSB done and I live with it because it does not effect the performance of the EPS system. If the clunking comes back please bring it to a professional and just say your car has a clunking noise. Thats it. No more or no less.

Not to harp on anyone. But why in the hell would someone buy a WRX with a CVT? Yes I have seen them and yes I have seen the owners. So it makes sense based on the type of owner I see driving them. They tend to floor them as you said. However that being said I see alot of replacement CVTs on these cars as well. in my opinion a WRX should be manual only. I agree with the 3.6 statement. If I want to floor my 3.6 sometimes and I am at lights the car just acts weird. Its bogged down. But as soon as I get onto the highway again thing wakes up and has power when I need it and want it. CVTs are just weird sometimes. But at least the Subaru CVT is not as bad as others I have driven. Honda seems to be one of the worst unless you floor it. And I am a huge Honda fan(Daily is a 8th Gen civic with 220,000 on it)