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TickerPyro

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  • Location
    Western Fl
  • Car
    06 LGT VF-52 Torque Tune
  • Interests
    Cars, Poker, Building stuff
  • Occupation
    GC, Mechanic, Poker Player, Father

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  1. It is not rusted out where residual water might sit. Are the coolant lines tightened around the turbo or to the TB above it? It can be the reason you had coolant in that groove on the block/head and traveling down the engine like mine does. I have a tiny drip that burns off before it hits the ground.
  2. You should only ne at 24° of timing under load at around 3k rpms (kinda tune dependant). Stock tune at idle is -11 i think or close to it. If you are advanced that far just at an idle i would seriously take a read and log of timing over a pull 1st-3rd under hard acceleration, and a 5th cruise. If this is the case, (and your tune has you on a flowing advance) you are def pre-detting at 3K rpms, let alone 5k. I feel sorry for that engine.
  3. Have you ever replaced a hub bearing on the car? There is a little magnetic sensor that has an 8mm screw holding it in that is set inside the spindle. It measures magnetic pulse and that thows abs and traction codes. If you unscrew that sensor and clean off all the metal shavings, and make sure the wire is all good, it should fix itself. Same issue popped up on my girls forester and a simple clean fixed it up easy.
  4. Metal sound could be a dust shield rubbing, or a hung up pad that has worn lopsided. But the motor seems to be running strong now, or you are not driving it?
  5. Like Max said.. You would be throwing a sensor code along with the car not starting. A defaulted cam sensor is going to failsafe the car into paralysis. Just like a crank sensor kills all. I noticed in your pics that you go neg11 deg on startup according to your app. I do not see anwhere near a neg 11 timing on my runout. Was this the boost showing -11 or timing? Because my timing is -4 at most and that is cold startup.
  6. Last i knew, the directional arrows are supposed to point into the gaps. At least that is how the 01 lgt rebuild went. Did you have it locked down when you changed the belt, or did it advance on you? And pic 1 of this page is def off 1 tooth.
  7. So suggesting options that could be causing issues, and asking what you have done is trolling? Well i know 1 person that will not be helped. I have taken these motors apart as well as many others. If you are a pro at doing everything, why tell people about a misfite on 4? Are you expecting people to sympathize or try to help. Epic waste of time trying to help people like this so this is def my last. Just an FYI TechWorks makes shimmed buckets for high lobed cams. Maybe you should look into them on your next build.
  8. I am sorry I referred buckets as lifters, same job, different name. I was asking if they had been changed from stock and if there were any clearance and lube issues had been checked, as well as spring tensions (sometimes after a beating they get a limp spot) In the operation of settling airerated oil it does allow a certain amount of oil to build up dependant on agitation of oil. If the AOS does not work fast enough you end up with volume. Did rings get gapped properly for extra heat buildup? Does the code hit right away and is it always Misfire Cyl 4? You said that the motor has popped at least 2x. That is not a normal occurrence for any build. I am here to try and help with a question. If you do not want help it's all good by me, just trying to be a nice neighbor.
  9. I was just thinking and what do you have in this car for lifters? Correction; the lifting device is solid. Like stated in previous post, Since #4 has always had issues (even though you have a higher pressure/volume pickup you can still be starved on all stages of 4. What do you run for oil weight. Are you dry sump? And have you ever checked levels after a hard drive (while the AOS is still working), also how much volume does the AOS hold? Do you hear any ticking when you start the car cold? This sounds like either a lifter is shot and a valve is halfassing it and throwing a code, or a valve is not seating right (possible bend) and you have a pre-det. I would get the high lobe cam out, get the stock (or something close back in) and see what it does. Just my diagnostic 2c.
  10. Suspension/ctrl arms/sway bar+linkage and tranny bushings play a HUGE roll in putting torque to the ground. A spring with no dampener in it (unless you have super expensive adjustable 7x struts) will flex and chatter like crazy on most 500+ horse cars. I have Broken the rear OEM springs on a 650hp turbo M3. If you ever hit a track, just watch how the stockish cars "sit" during launch and the big boys do not.
  11. Can you get a pic of the underside of your turbo, or take the heatshield off and get a top view? It is probably a crush washer on the turbo feed that has either doubled up or is not tight enough. As for the rear contol arm, the rubber spacer is torn and obviously is shot. The top of that should be able to camber in or out. Did you ever slide this into anything or crush a major pothole?? It looks like something that natural wear does not create. plus that shock looks like it is covered in oil, so there is about a 95% chance it is shot. Also, you should make sure the lower part of that contol arm setup is straight and not cranked way in. Hope this helps TP
  12. IMO the cast/unknown crack is a concern if you plan on going to a stage 2 then 3. You are saying eventually you want to run 500whp and that is not a good look to start off with. I would take some type of a grinder and take a touch off the crack spot and see how far it goes. Plus look at both sides and look for any more inaccuracies that may lead to fracture. If you are going to spend all the time and money on "new clearanced" pretty much everything, you might as well pick up a heat treated block from Energyblue98 and start with a monster. Just saying it would be a shame to do the work and have that bang clunk clunk clunk on a monster, just because you wanted to save 750$ =/
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