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covertrussian 12-15-2013 10:49 PM

CovertRussian's 05 LGT 5MT Build Thread
2005 Subaru Legacy GT 5MT
"Comfortable Daily" Build

Lightweight Crank Pulley - GrimmSpeed

Big 16g
Steel Braided Turbo Oil Lines

Intake Mods
Inlet: Perrin STI
Inlet Evap Delete
Custom 3" Cold Air Intake
DIY TGV Deletes

Intake Tech Posts:
K&N Typhoon Intake Testing & Fine Tuning Results
TGV Open vs Failed Closed Test
Drop In Filter Testing
Intake Depression (Vacuum) Testing
Perrin STI Inlet Pressure Drop Testing

Engine Bay Inline Fuel Filter
Tank Fuel Filter Bypass
FPR Vacuum Line Relocation
04-07 STI Fuel Pressure Regulator

Exhaust Mods
Header - GrimmSpeed UEL PNP Header
Crosspipe - GrimmSpeed
Uppipe - GrimmSpeed - Gasket Ported
Downpipe - Grimmspeed 3.0" Catted
Catback - Custom Quiet 3" SS Single Exit w/STI Muffler

Exhaust Tech Posts
OEM UEL Header Design Overview
Tomei 193105 Equal Length Header Design Overview
Backpressure Kit & Testing: Downpipe & Catback Backpressure
Manifold BackPressure: Tomei ELH & 16G Backpressure

Removed Mods:
Tomei 193105 Equal Length Header Install
Uppipe - Invidia HS02SW1UPP
Downpipe - 2.5" Stromung Divorced

Minor Engine Mods
Spark Plugs & Sidegaping
Sparkplugs Overgapped
Spark Plugs Overgapped Again!
AC Idler Pulley

General & Boost Gauge
Wideband - AEM UEGO
Fuel Pressure Gauge

Banjo Filter Removal
MAF Cleaning
PCV Valve
Timing Belt
Cam Seals
Water Pump
Intake Manifold Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket
Throttle Body Gasket
Lower Coolant Crosspipe
OEM Air Filter Replacement
AVCS OCV Replacement
Vacuum Leak Hunting

Closed Loop to Open Loop Delay Disable
Timing Compensation Zeroing
Disabling AF Learning for Open Loop
Max Airflow Learning Restricting

16G Tuning
Bigger Turbo = Less Timing For Better MPG
16G: Testing Optimal WOT Timing with bigger turbo

UEL vs EL Header Tuning

Base Maps
Stage 0 Safety Tunes

MPG Tuning

Front Strut Bar: JDM STI BL/BP
Front Lowercontrol Arm Rearward Bushing: Whiteline KCA334
Front Lowercontrol Arm Forward Bushing: Whiteline W0506

Whiteline 20mm Rear Swaybar
Rear Trailing Arm Bushings: Whiteline W63398

Tires: Falken Azenis Fk450 215/50/17

Tech Posts:
Stock Front Suspension Travel & Camber Curve

Removed Mods:
EMUSA WRX Front Endlinks
08 Spec B Bilsteins + 05 AT Wagon Springs

Centric Rotors & StopTech Pads
Caliper Rebuild
Rusty Rear Line Replacement
Front Caliper Replacement
Front Rotors: 2005 vs 2006+ Comparison

Flywheel: 2007 WRX Single Mass
Clutch: Exedy Stage 1
Clutch Replacement & Single Mass Conversion Post
Rear Diff Inserts - Whiteline KDT927

Kartboy Short Throw Shifter
Shifter Bushing: ES 19.1102G
SS Clutch Line & Clutch Delay Valve Delete

JDM DCC HVAC Conversion
Speakers: Focal 165 A1 & Polk DB651's

Headunit Install Part 1 Part 2

Trunk Lip
Plasti-Dipped Grill
09 Key/Fob Upgrade & Programming
DRL Disable
STI Homelink Mirror
Handbrake Leather Gluing
Headlight Refinish
S204 Lip Installation
Rear Folding Seat Retrofit

General Build Posts
Passenger Front Wheel Bearing, Ball Joint
Right Axle
Transmission Oil, Kartboy STS, Cabin Filter
Brake Bleeding, Diff Fluid Change, Parking Brake Adjustment
Stock Exhaust Size and Aerodynamics
Vac Leak fixing, TMIC, Stock AVCS Testing
Carpet Holder Fixin'
Full Size Spare, Red GrimmSpeed Crank Pulley
PS Hose O-Ring & Cabin Air Filter Replacement
Custom 3" WAI Intake with BPi Flowstack
Turning WAI into CAI

Common Issues
Here is a list of common issues found with these cars.

  • Turbo Failure around 80k miles - There are two things that can cause this:
    1. Subaru used turbo oil feed banjo filters that get clogged and restrict oil flow to the turbo. Failure Example. Here is how to remove all banjo bolt filters.
    2. Subaru used a preturbo catalytic converter that breaks up overtime and gets logged into the turbo. Please note 2007+ LGT no longer have cats in up pipes. Failure Example. Here is how to install a catless uppipe.

  • Throwout Bearing failure at around 60k miles - The push type clutches have badly designed throw out bearings that will get stuck on the pressure plate and destroy the input shaft's snout.  There is a Tranquil TSK3 snout kit, use this if your snout if yours already has damage.  Sadly there is no permanent fix, even TSK3 TOB's will fail at about 60k miles.

  • Fans always stay on - This on is 5MT specific, the secondary radiator fan relay can damage the ECU causing the fans to always stay on.  There is an official recall for this.

  • Dual Mass Flywheel - Dual mass flywheels should be shunned from all cars, they are big & heavy and only lead to problems.  More info on DMF's.  Luckily you can upgrade to 07+ single mass setup (flywheel + clutch).

  • Wheel Bearings! - As with all Subaru's, be ready to replace all of the wheel bearings. Did a two part series on Subaru bearings: Part 1, Part 2

  • Dual Climate Control is physical tied to Radio - This is a major inconvenience (if you want to user aftermarket head unit) and has issues too.  If one fails it takes the other down with him, LCD screens are known to give out on these too. There is a JDM Console Swap but it will cost you around $350 for the whole setup.

  • Front O2 Sensor Failure - Seems like the Front O2 sensors fail rather often, this is probably because of the O2 sensor being in before the turbo, thus is exposed to very nigh temperatures.

  • Water Pools ontop of Fuel Rail due to Hood Scoop - Due to hoodscoop design water tends to pool around fuel rail/coolant reservoir after raining, example pics here.

  • Stock Tune is Lean in Boost - Due to emissions US models have a closed loop to open loop delay, this causes you to be lean while in boost, this causes burnt valves and makes motor more detonation prone. Easily fixable with a tune update.

  • Stock Tune adds too much timing for Cylinder 2 & 4 - For some reason 05-06 LGT's add 2.11* to cylinder 2 & 4 which are already detonation prone, 07+ tunes add 0*, FXT/WRX also isn't as aggressive.  Easily fixable with a tune update.

  • Rear Brake lines rust through - There is a recall, WQK-47, no matter how bad your lines are, if they are not leaking Subaru will just put some wax on them...

  • Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Rearward specifically, they tend to rip very easily, OEM ones cost around $15 but don't expect them to last.  Whiteline or Avo makes great replacements, plus you can get caster ones.  Replacement How To.

  • Crank Pulley Disintegration - The rubber/glue on the crank pulleys tends to stop holding and the two parts of the crank pulley separate.  Usually destroys a few items while it's at it.


Max Capacity 12-16-2013 07:06 AM

Welcome, learn how to check the oil and keep it topped off, never let it get low.

Nice looking cars.

Read on here. all the info you want is here, hint, read the stickys at the top of each and every forum.

Oh here,

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:01 AM


Originally Posted by Max Capacity (Post 4671318)
Welcome, learn how to check the oil and keep it topped off, never let it get low.

Nice looking cars.

Read on here. all the info you want is here, hint, read the stickys at the top of each and every forum.

Oh here,

Thank you very much, didn't think these cars would be so cared of oil, but definitely good to know.

I've been lurking these forums for quite some time now, even before the purchase about month ago. I take a lot of pictures as I do the mods, thus I wanted to post them in one stop location. I may be moving some of the posts into individual How To's.

I definitely already got a sunburn from the awesome vacation, but I see you have some 09 vacation pics too, will pass it on to a friend!

Alright onto business of posting the currently done progress. Please do keep in mind, these posts posted on a Nissan forum, thus I might have details that we all already know as Subaru owners.

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:06 AM

In the General Chat forum here is a thread about show me your pix, it has a most of the years covered.

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:07 AM

Banjo Filter Removal
This is the #1 reason Subaru turbos die often, second reason is Uppipe cat that breaks up over time. For some reason Subaru thought it was a great idea to put a fine mesh filter into the turbo and AVCS oil feed lines.

AVCS Filters
AVCS filters are the easiest to get to and check. Some Subaru's will have the mesh filters right before the AVCS, these have a tendency of getting stuck in the AVCS mechanism.

05 LGT bolt didn't seem to have the filter, but my 04 FXT definitely had them and they poped out of the banjo bolts. Dig around in the AVCS oil hole to make sure the filter is not in there, on my FXT, both filters fell out of the banjo bolt and was inside (hard to spot since they are black like the oil).

Turbo Feed/AVCS Feed
This one is the most important one, if this one is clogged it restricts oil flow to the turbo which causes to starve and fail. Most shops will replace the turbo afterwards without fixing the root cause, clogged turbo feed banjo bolt. Because of this most replacement turbos will fail within the next 10k miles.

Remove the bracket that bolts to the up pipe and to the block.

Then you can see the oil feed banjo, use a 17mm ratcheting wrench to make your life easier.

Filter is still in... pull it out and install the bolt without it. The hard lines have a built in restrictor for the turbo.

This filter is definitely clogged, this caused my car's turbo to go out, sadly the previous owner didn't pull it out, thus the replacement turbo might be in a bad shape too.

Driver Side Head AVCS Feed
This one requires the most work to remove, it's best to do it while you are replacing the timing belt and the cam seals.

Here is a pic of how close the Banjo bolt is to the timing cover, there is simply not enough room to remove it on car without damaging the timing cover. If you grind the hump off, you will have more room to get the banjo out.

This plastic cover is in the way and can only be removed with the cam gears removed. You will need to loosen the dip stick tube to get the plastic cover out.

Finally easy access to the bolt

As expected the filter was in place still

And very dirty, if this was on the turbo feed/avcs line the turbo would be dead due to oil starvation.

I removed the whole hard line, notice that the bolt that goes into the AVCS side itself doesn't have a hump. That hump makes it impossible to remove this banjo bolt with the timing cover on.

I'm going to put the humpless bolt on the head, I also shaved one side of the banjo bolt so that I could squeeze it past the timing cover if I ever have to deal with it again. Do yourself a favor and use new seals on the head it self, you can try to reuse the old seals on the AVCS end, they are easy to replace if they leak.

All done and happy!

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:12 AM

Passenger Front Wheel Bearing, Ball Joint
It all started with me hearing more wobbling noises, naturally I assumed another wheel bearing is on it's way out, this time right front one. Sadly after all of this work, the noise was still there, I rotated the tires and the noise moved :poke:. Oh well at least I needed a new axle/axle seal anyway.

Look at that beefy rotor!

This thing does indeed have massive brakes, I can see why Outback guys want to upgrade to LGT setups.

What's this... runs to FSM... this car has oem camber adjustment, not used to seeing all of this fanciness!

Fanciness ended when I saw that they are crash bolts.

Front Wheel Bearing
As I now know the wheel bearing was okish, oh well, I needed a new stud anyway, current one was so rusty that the previous owner didn't have a lug nut. I tried to install one and cross threaded a brand new nut.

It's bolted up in the back of the hub, do notice the ABS/Speed sensor that needs to be removed before you can pull the bearing assembly out.

All out

All in

Well that was easy right? Sure until you need to replace the axle too. Which lead to me needing a new ball joint too.

Ball Joint
The fun began when I tried to remove the lower ball joint knuckle bolt so that I could pull the knuckle out and get the axle out.
As you can see Subaru went with the reversed ball joint setup, I hate these with a passion for this exact reason!

Luckily I had a spare ball joint sitting waiting (actually it was supposed to go into the Forester)

Took the knuckle out and started hacking away

The carbide burr helped a ton with getting the shell of the ball joint out

Since the ball joint has a dimple for the bolt, rust tends to form inside, so it's a good idea to clean it up on the inside

Next stage of fun, drilling the bolt out, I think Subaru used a grade 8.8 bolt, this thing was a little too soft honestly.

Threads are useless, best route is to use a longer bolt with a nut now.

Luckily again I had a long enough 10.9 bolt (P11 6 speed leftovers)

And done

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:12 AM

That's a dirty filter.

05-06 have them on the passenger side head as pictured and on the front of the drivers side head. You can file the top off the bolt, back it out, remove the filter without pulling the timing belt covers.

HAMMERDOWN did it and posted pictures.

I have mine removed when the new short block was assembled at the machine shop.

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:12 AM

Right Axle
7 Attachment(s)
Right Axle
Finally onto the main reason why I had to do all of this extra work past the wheel bearing, boot was pretty ripped. I was tempted to repair it, but EMPI axles are $67 shipped, hard to beat that.

Another reason to remove the axle was, the car was bleeding smurf blood due to the axle seal being reused by the shop that did the TOB work!

Got a new seal at Subaru, Part # 806735300, they are about $8 a piece. I at first went to Advance auto, not only did I get the wrong seal (wasn't really showing up in their system) it was more expensive then Subaru seal!

I was able to push it in with bare hands, not sure if I'm happy or worried about that part, with Nissan I'm used to dedicated at least an hour just to get the stupid seals in, this guy went in within 5 minutes!

New axle was a breeze to install too, I gotta say this was the fastest axle/seal job I've ever done.

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:16 AM


Originally Posted by Max Capacity (Post 4671519)

That's a dirty filter.

05-06 have them on the passenger side head as pictured and on the front of the drivers side head. You can file the top off the bolt, back it out, remove the filter without pulling the timing belt covers.

HAMMERDOWN did it and posted pictures.

I have mine removed when the new short block was assembled at the machine shop.

I gotta do my timing belt sometime this summer (at 98k miles right now), thus I plan on pulling the passenger side filter at that point. Since it's only affecting the AVCS, I'm not as worried about it. But definitely on my to do list.

I hate timing belts and the replacement dances, I've owned nothing but timing chained cars for the last decade, thus it is an unfriendly change. I'm glad that Subaru finally switched to chains for 2014 models though!

StoplightAssassin 12-16-2013 10:18 AM

Holy shit that's a lot of crap in the bb filter. FWIW I never had more than a fleck or two in mine. I usually check once every 2 years.

Is the car on its original turbo still? I'd pull the DP and check the turbo for shaft play ASAP. A full oil system flush is probably in order too.

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:19 AM

Next tip, use anti sieze compound on every nut and bolt you install.

You seem to have clue how to work on cars. That's great.

Oh I learned that a new spindle is like $114. It's sometimes easier to just replace it when doing ball joints. Thats a common problem on these, that bolt always breaks.

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:20 AM

Invidia Uppipe part 1
2005-06 Legacy GT's have a catalytic converter inside the up pipe before the turbo, replacing gets you ~10whp and might save your turbo. I think Subaru realized this too and in 07 LGT's came with a catless same as STI up pipe, instead they introduced an air pump to help the emissions.

GrimmSpeed did some awesome CFM testing of different up pipes. Catted up pipes flow 165 CFM, you can gut the stock one, very involved process and you run the risk left over material going into your turbo, airflow does improve by 50 CFM (216 total), which is still worse then OEM catless uppipe (at 245 CFM). GrimmSpeed's uppipe did 293 CFM, which is almost double the airflow of stock. Now Grimm's up pipe does have a flex pipe, which IMO are not needed and add turbulence, that plus the price is why I went with the Invidia uppipe.

Up pipe is install is not hard, but is also not easy as the downpipe install. It's just a very involved process where you have to remove the headers and the downpipe.

Gain access to the turbo and downpipe.

Remove the EGT sensor if you can, it will help you more easily pull out the up pipe. Mine was stuck thus I had to remove the uppipe as is, it was still doable, just bent the sensor.

Mine was so stuck I couldn't get it off even with MAP heat while it was off the car.

Downpipe has a bolt that holds it under the car, but there is also a little bracket that catches it. This was a pain to work with, I ended up cutting the lip off so that I can push down the downpipe more.

Remove the downpipe bolts. There is one downpipe bolt (one on the intercooler side) which was nearly impossible to break loose, just not enough room for a breaker bar and a wrench cuts your hands. Use a screw driver to force the downpipe off the turbo. This all is much easier if you just remove the downpipe all together and replace it with a new one. I don't know why Subaru thought it is a great idea to put two bolts right under the downpipe.

Next is removing the header, first you need to drop the diaper and start removing the super rusty heat shields, to gain access to the nuts on the heads.
Unplug and unhook the O2 sensor from the engine! O2 sensors are very sensitive on these cars, I damaged mine by leaving the exhaust manifold hang on the O2 sensor wires!

Don't forget to unbolt the up pipe from the header too.

Up Pipe removed:

Grab it and pull it out

Invidia vs OEM catted up pipe header end:

OEM LGT uppipe entry is about 40mm

STI Uppipe is not much abetter at about 43mm

It should be well over 50mm to not be a flow wall, this is the exact reason why I like the Invidia Uppipe.
2016 Edit: I recently discovered that OEM gaskets are much bigger then the ID of the uppipe, this is why the black ring is there, it's not from stock up pipe being that much smaller then the head exit.

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:20 AM

Invidia Uppipe part 2
Invidia vs OEM catted turbo end:

Invidia has smooth transitions inside the pipe, it does also have not an ideal taper on header end.

Compare that to the OEM uppipe, it's like it was purposefully designed to suck and reduce power.

Turbo end shows the cat and EGT, notice how poor the transitions are.

Invidia uppie has a bung for the OEM EGT, but oem EGT is meant for checking the health of the cat only, it's too far away to give accurate EGT, plus it can break and kill your turbo and finally I'm hearing they burn up faster without the cat. You will need a hard to find M12x1.25 bolt, parts stores do sell drain plugs in that size for around $5. I was able to find a plain bolt at local hardware store and cut it to fit.

Gaskets, now is the time to replace those 10 year old gaskets...

Getting the uppipe was not hard, but trying to hold it and bolt a bolt up did get tricky, not enough hand room.

I personally tightened the the turbo bolts before getting the header attached, if you keep them loose it might make it slightly easier to get the header installed.

Get new gaskets on the header, and bolt everything up.

Now I didn't realize this until I started looking for exhaust leaks do to a whiny O2 sensor code. Apparently I put the second gasket ontop of the stock one, fitment is perfect and I see no leaks, thus I think this up pipe might actually be a little short, if it prevents cracks I'm all up for it too!

All of this took about 4 hours, rusty parts and stuck bolts is the main reason for why it took so long. I'll do some Virtual Dyno runs in the next few days and will see how it did powerwise, also will see if MPG improves.

Finally did a virtual dyno, I rest the ECU for both runs, and drove the car until IAM hit 1.0 that way timing would be identical for both runs. Waited for another warm day in November and did another run, compensating for temperature, pressure and fuel/toolbox weight. 7whp/10wtq peak gains!

Do notice the AFR dip, this is a stock sensor thus it only reads to 11.1 and even then it's not accurate. I'll have my MTX-L hooked up after I get rid of the P11. Also please note that this is not necessarily the best road for peak WHP (slight up hill), but it's very easy for me to do repeat runs on this specific road. On a straighter road the car is making 213whp.

CEL Fixing
Removing the EGT sensor will cause a CEL, thus you have to either reflash the ecu with codes off (best method), or use a resistor patch (will work, but I've had some issues after some time).

Disabling the CEL's through reflash
Disabled these codes in your tune:
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0545 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0546 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P1301 - Misfire Detected (High Temperature Exhaust Gas)
P1312 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P1544 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Too High

I highly suggest using the reflash route, resistor patch for me would throw intermittent CEL's and cause cruise control to fail. Since I have re flashed the ECU with resistor disabling CEL's, I've never had this issue happen to me.

Get a 2.2-kohm 1/2-watt Resistor (Radioshack # 2711121), this resistor makes the ECU think the EGT is always at 1292 *F.

Tape it off so it doesn't fall out

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:21 AM

Oh another hint, save the old OEM axle and rebiuld it for next me on that one.

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:25 AM

Did you use a OEM front O2 sensor. If not, do that next time. Trust me again. the rear O2 can be after far mine is good, but I had to replace the 2 year front with a OEM one last month.

Same with Hubs, front should be OEM, rears can be Moog

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