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evil03mustang 02-12-2013 11:38 PM

2006 LGT - 63k miles..
Owner blew up the engine. Used car dealer bought it from Subaru dealership where it had been towed and traded.. has had the engine rebuilt by Subaru dealership techs. New crank, bearings, et cetera.

63k miles on it. Black on black, manual transmission.. all things considered and assuming the interior and exterior are in excellent condition, what should I expect to pay?

I have a figure in mind... just trying to gather intel and thoughts from others.

...and if I put the AVO 380 on it, what other mods will be necessary? I don't want a bunch of power, but I do want quick spool and ball bearings... journal bearings scare me.

NWSPECB 02-12-2013 11:42 PM

What caused the motor to blow?

With the 380 you would be looking at needing fueling, TMIC/FMIC as well as a DP at a minimum. I would probably do a full TBE, PW TMIC, 850cc injectors as well as a DW65C fuel pump.

Also think about what you're going to use to tune. Cobb AP or OpenSource?

evil03mustang 02-13-2013 12:29 AM

I have no idea what caused the engine to quit.

I've not seen the car in person yet, either... I'm going on word of mouth.

I would assume that the subaru techs working on it know enough to check the health of the turbo and the oiling system, and likely replace the turbo, the oil cooler, the banjo screens and even the lines... They've likely seen this a thousand times by now, too.

Assuming all of the parts aside from the crank were in reusable condition and all necessary bearings have been replaced, as well as all oil passages having been properly cleaned of debris... which should all be done without question if the cases were split for any reason.. The engine itself should really be in as-new condition.

You're saying the 380 is too big to even be functional with everything else remaining stock? For crying out loud, I just want a ball bearing turbo.. I need $3000 in supporting mods to make basically stock power with a larger huffer on it? You're telling me that the subaru's fuel pump and injectors are working at 100% duty cycle just to keep up with the factory turbo and they did not build in any overhead? That just seems stupid.

I mean, I'd have a tune done (that goes without saying) but really? everything else just won't support the 380?

OK, keeping that in mind, are there any bolt-on ball-bearing turbos that don't require me to sell my kidney to fund supporting mods? I just hate that the only options are A: stock sleeve bearing, or B: $6000 for anything else and a sh*tload of supporting mods.

There's no area in between???

evil03mustang 02-13-2013 12:31 AM

So I have 2 choices - A: stock garbage sleeve bearing turbo or B: $6000 worth of whydidiwastemymoneyonasubaru?

Is that correct?

NWSPECB 02-13-2013 12:35 AM

No. The turbo is probably new. I would verify that. If so I would slowly work your way up to swapping a 380. Start with stage 2 (dp plus tune). Buy used DP and do an etune. ~$500.

Then as you find yourself wanting more, step up piece by piece.

evil03mustang 02-13-2013 12:45 AM

The question I have is this-

Can I put the 380 on and get a tune and be safe?

I'm not looking to upgrade for more power, just more reliability. If a BB has quicker spool, great. The tune will compensate for earlier boost.

Will a stock DP and TMIC restrict the effectiveness of the 380 to where stock FP and injectors will be safe?

NWSPECB 02-13-2013 12:53 AM

Well you can detune yes. You should really talk directly to who you plan to use as a tuner.

evil03mustang 02-13-2013 01:47 AM

Will do.. sorry if I come across as rude, it's unintentional.

I just had a buddy of mine split his turbo shaft and replace his vf40 only to have the engine lock up due to sleeve bearing shrapnel... and his brand new vf40 fried, as well....

talk about your horror stories.

NWSPECB 02-13-2013 01:51 AM

No I understand the paranoia. Do you already have a 380 or that's just what you're planning on getting?

If not, there are far more options that have better reliability for much less money. If your just looking for reliability and don't plan to build up the rest of the car look at BNR turbo's.

evil03mustang 02-13-2013 02:04 AM

BNR? Will do. Thanks for the tip!

evil03mustang 02-13-2013 02:40 AM

The BNR website is kind of confusing.

Do I have supply the vf40 to be built? It's obvious that those chra's won't work with a standard vf40 housing..

are they ball bearing conversions? which one will be a direct bolton without any other mods needed?

The evo 16g looks like the factory flow counterpart... but is it ball bearing?

I'm still inclined to go with the AVO 380... they say on their site that it'll work with stock everything. (A tune is obviously necessary, though)

evil03mustang 02-13-2013 12:44 PM what should i expect to pay for this car?

NWSPECB 02-13-2013 12:46 PM

Why do you want a ball bearing so bad? BNR's stuff has proven good in this community.

Look up what fits your car via his website. 16, 18, 20, etc.

After buyin you can keep your vf40 or send it back for a bit of money.

As far as what it's worth, you should fine more information on the replacement of the motor.

evil03mustang 02-13-2013 04:25 PM

Everything I've ever had with sleeve bearings has ended in catastrophic failure... drills, fans, washing machine motors.. you name it. Why should something that spins at 300,000rpm be any different?

I mean, I know crank bearings and cam bearings aren't ball bearing.. and that's all well and good.. I just see it as a failure point.

I'll be viewing the engine build papers as son as I'm able.

Just assume that everything used is Subaru OE and assembled to original tolerances.

What should I pay for the car? KBB and all that is well and good, but KBB isn't Legacy-devoted subaru owners that know realistic values on them.

I really like my Impreza, but I need something a bit more refined and slightly larger. I like the LGT. A LOT. I have a limited budget.

NWSPECB 02-13-2013 04:30 PM


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