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dedma3au 12-05-2012 04:02 PM

Cruise control acting weird.
Hello everyone. Car is 05 LGT wagon.
I had left front hub and bearing replaced recently. Not sure if it has anything to do with this problem. Few days after I noticed that when i set my cruise control it doesn't drive smooth. It feels same as if i would tap gas pedal very fast. When i have my accessport connected, it shows that MAF reading jumps up and down, so it's constantly raving up engine. Speed stays accurate, and drives without any known issues without cruise control. Anyone had an idea what should i check ?

Max Capacity 12-05-2012 04:20 PM

You need to use a OEM front hub, you can use a Moog for the rears, but you MUST use a OEM front hub. I had the same issue, I replaced it with a OEM hub, everything is fine.

It really is that simple.

I even put the old one back in before I bought a OEM hub and returned hte aftermarket one.

It's all on here somewhere.

Here, found it.

dedma3au 12-05-2012 04:27 PM

Nice, I guess i'll have to shop for a new one. I bought Centric one, guess that was a mistake.

Max Capacity 12-05-2012 04:33 PM

Can you return it ? I took the Moog one back to Advance Auto parts the day I got the oem one.

dedma3au 12-05-2012 04:35 PM

Bought mine online, have to double check return policy. I'm in Canada, so parts here cost arm and a leg sometimes.

Max Capacity 12-05-2012 04:46 PM

Yea, I have a hard time buying parts like this on line.

I try and buy from my local auto parts store, if somethings wrong it's fixed in a few minutes. not day's over miles and shipping.

Think about it next time.

Granted there are things I'll buy on line, but they come from trusted vendors or members here.

dedma3au 12-05-2012 04:48 PM

True, I had good and bad experience, but it was either 250+ for hub and bearing or 60 and change. Oh well, i found oem for good price, going to order tonight. Thank you.

BVSmith 12-14-2012 01:15 PM

I just replaced the RF hub on my '06 LGT. Now I have the problem described in this thread.

The hub I used is a Carquest, standard grade. I don't know who makes their standard-line, maybe Cardone. Anyway, the ABS light was never on after the repair, it was on during the initial test when the car was on jackstands. After the repair, the Check Engine light was on for three run cycles, and the and CRUISE light was flashing all that time, and during that time the cruise control would not work.

Now that the Check Engine Light is off and the CRUISE light is off the cruise control works. But, I can feel the cruise control working, revving the engine slightly. I removed the positive battery cable and held the brake pedal down for 30 seconds to deplete remaining charge. Then I replaced the battery cable and turned the key on for 60 seconds to let the CAN system reinitialize. I still have the problem with the cruise control.

I called my Carquest dealer to describe the problem and they basically don't believe the hub could be the problem and won't let me return the hub.

So here's my question: Does anybody have any idea what the root problem is, why only a few premium hubs (Timken, others listed in the DIY thread) will work?

Max Capacity 12-14-2012 03:26 PM

You should print this thread or give them the link.

You need to use OEM for the front.

It's something to do with the ABS sensor not getting a good reading on the hub.

I used a OEM and my car works great after I took the Moog one out.

Moog works fine for the rears. Just not the fronts.

BTW, CC will not work if you have CEL.

BVSmith 12-14-2012 05:34 PM

I'll show them the thread. That might work.

I looked at the back of the old hub to see what kind of technology the wheel sensor uses. The hub has a magnet that has a bunch of North/South magnetic poles around the circle. The wheel sensor rides just above this magnet and as the wheel turns the changes in the poles cause the sensor to send pulses to the ABS. The magnet on my old hub is very weak, would hardly pull a small screwdriver tip to it. So if a non-OEM hub has a weaker magnet, there's one possible cause. I can't get in to see how strong the magnet is on the new hub, but I did unscrew the axle nut and back the half-shaft out enough to get a piece of mechanic's wire in there to see if it attracted the wire. It did, but I couldn't make any judgement on the strength.
This really ticks me off. I did a nice job of putting this new hub in, hate to have to tear it apart again.

dedma3au 12-14-2012 07:31 PM

I'm receiving new OEM hub Monday so will know if that'll solve an issue. Apparently, this issue is not only Subaru thing. When I talked to my mechanic he said that they had same issue on one of the newer Jeep models and some other vehicle.

BVSmith 12-14-2012 08:13 PM

Can't wait to hear.

Max Capacity 12-15-2012 06:16 AM

Did you see where I put the old hub back in and the problem went away ?

Then that evening went to the dealer got a OEM hub came back home and replaced the assembly again.

The last time I think took me like 30 minutes to R&R

BVSmith 12-15-2012 09:11 AM

Ooops, yes I did read where you replaced your new hub with the old one and the problem went away and must have forgotten.

dedma3au 12-20-2012 07:15 AM

Now with OEM hub it drives completely normal. Issue solved.

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