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help to modify 05 Legacy GT


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I'm going to help a friend modify a totally stock 05 Legacy gt. The engine blew a head gasket, and the clutch needs replacing--which means the engine will be out and on a stand. Most mods will thus be relatively easy to do.

 

I've modified WRX's, and a couple of Forester XTs (04/05). The Legacy, however, presents unique problems.

 

The owner is on a tight budget; he's already shelling out a lot for the head gaskets, new timing stuff, including water and oil pumps, cam seals, pulleys, etc., and for a new clutch.

 

here's the plan so far. Please let me know if I'm missing something:

 

Must do:

1. Get rid of banjo bolt filters (I'm under the impression that there are 4).

2. Replace uppipe.

 

As scheduled so far (in addition to the above):

1. replace downpipe with Invidia w/tuning bung.

2. not sure what to do for cat back. It's a sedan with divided twin mufflers and pipes. We can make our own if necessary.

3. new inlet tube

4. I'd like to eliminate the PCV, but this will require an AOS, and I don't know if he has the money for an AOS. Grimmspeed would be my choice. This allows us to connect a silicone tube from the crankcase vent to the AOS, and then simply plug the hole for the PCV.

5. I'd like to replace the stock intake manifold and TMIC with STI manifold and TMIC, but this also depends on cost.

6. lightweight pulley. Not sure how much this affects hp, but it sure affects smoothness.

7. Delete TGV's

8. More heat absorbent TGV gaskets.

9. he'll probably want to keep the stock turbo (because of cost). Not sure how much we can adapt a decent tune to a stock turbo. I've always before gone to at least a 16G. But in a 2.0 WRX have bumped the stock turbo to 17 lbs, and that turbo now has nearly 200K miles on it, and is still working fine.

11. Clutch. This is a stock LGT 5-speed. Not sure how much whp it will handle, or if it will handle a clutch like the Spec 2+. It if was a WRX, I'd stay stock.

12. We'll be looking for 250-300 whp with the tune (depending on whether or not it gets a larger turbo). Tune will be open-road done in concert with NW Tuning in Tacoma.

13. Gauges. I can't believe these cars come with only idiot lights. Gauges will include at least: EGT, Oil Pressure, Boost. I have no idea where to mount them in a Sedan LGT. The Forester is easy. Maybe a window pillar?

 

Recommended:

Kartboy short throw

braided steel brake and turbo lines.

Hawk pads

better radiator

Walbro 255 (even with stock injectors)

 

Comments/help will be greatly appreciated. FYI: with approximately the same mods on the Forester XTs, they came in at 298 and 310 whp respectively--on a Mustang Dyno. Both were 5spds, and both had Blouch 16g's. The gearing on the Forester XT makes them wicked quick from stoplight to stoplight.

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2. If the stock catback is in good shape, you can use those. You may need an adapter. I'm not sure what size the Invidia is.

4. The Crawford AOS is also very nice.

5. Intercooler not necessarily absolutely necessary at stage 2 (downpipe and tune). Can bulletproof the stocker (see BarManBean) or upgrade for stage 3,.

6. Do not do both a lw pulley and a lwfw. One or the other is fine, but both is a little too free spinning and makes clutch engagement ugly.

7. TGV deletes not necessary for stage 2 on a budget.

9. You can absolutely get a great tune for a VF-40, much better than the stock map and necessary for the downpipe anyway. Make sure you check the turbo for shaftplay. These turbos are fragile. If it's good and solid, it can go back on, no problem. If it's got shaft play, it's time to look at a replacement.

11. Upgrade the clutch to handle the hp. The Clutchmaster FX350 is a nice stage 2 clutch with lighter than stock engagement. Great for a stage 2/3 dd. There is some complaint with chatter when cold, but most seem to be happy with theirs. The Exedy clutch is also highly recommended.

12. You can get a little more with supporting upgrades like EBCS and BPV, etc, but on a budget, not absolutely necessary.

13. EGT is really best read at the exhaust manifold. You would need to drill the stock headers for this. EGT in the stock location in the up is a little far away for a proper reading. Oil Pressure and Boost are the necessary gauges. After that, I might go for AFR next. A pillar works. If you are doing only two, do them in the center console where the empty cubby is. Search here for many pics of that.

 

Radiator after EBCS and BPV. Rest is fine. Good luck. Enjoy!

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Must do:

1. Get rid of banjo bolt filters (I'm under the impression that there are 4). Reasonable but there are only 2

2. Replace uppipe. Reasonable

 

As scheduled so far (in addition to the above):

1. replace downpipe with Invidia w/tuning bung.Reasonable

2. not sure what to do for cat back. It's a sedan with divided twin mufflers and pipes. We can make our own if necessary. Up to you, I have a stage 4 wagon with headers, catless up / dp, 18g and it's almost as quiet as stock. Just depends on how loud you want and what you want to spend. I'd recommend retaining a resonator.

3. new inlet tube Not needed, make for difficult tuning

4. I'd like to eliminate the PCV, but this will require an AOS, and I don't know if he has the money for an AOS. Grimmspeed would be my choice. This allows us to connect a silicone tube from the crankcase vent to the AOS, and then simply plug the hole for the PCV. Again, not needed. I'm not sure what people infatuation is with AOS. This isn't a race engine.

5. I'd like to replace the stock intake manifold and TMIC with STI manifold and TMIC, but this also depends on cost. Not needed. There are several turbos now that use OEM fitment. If you switch to STI IM you will have to use STI style turbo and I/C

6. lightweight pulley. Not sure how much this affects hp, but it sure affects smoothness. By affecting smoothness, I assume you mean makes it less smooth?

7. Delete TGV's Been there, done that, not worth the hassle. You will always be chasing vac leaks and have surging while warming up.

8. More heat absorbent TGV gaskets. Que? OEM are fine, just use new ones on the reassembly

9. he'll probably want to keep the stock turbo (because of cost). Not sure how much we can adapt a decent tune to a stock turbo. I've always before gone to at least a 16G. But in a 2.0 WRX have bumped the stock turbo to 17 lbs, and that turbo now has nearly 200K miles on it, and is still working fine. If you are rebuilding the engine, take the money you were going to waste on the STI IM, TGV delete, AOS, and ricer exhaust to buy a BNR 16g and filtered oil line.

11. Clutch. This is a stock LGT 5-speed. Not sure how much whp it will handle, or if it will handle a clutch like the Spec 2+. It if was a WRX, I'd stay stock. Clutch will start slipping around stage 2 power levels. Get a nice organic and DM flywheel

12. We'll be looking for 250-300 whp with the tune (depending on whether or not it gets a larger turbo). Tune will be open-road done in concert with NW Tuning in Tacoma. That is pushing the stock sized turbo out of it's efficiency. You need to get a Wideband O2 for tuning, and i think you forgot about an upgraded Intercooler. Stock is fine for about 17 PSI (debatable) with BarmanBeans bullitproof kit. Used AVO / Perrin are floating around classifieds.

13. Gauges. I can't believe these cars come with only idiot lights. Gauges will include at least: EGT, Oil Pressure, Boost. I have no idea where to mount them in a Sedan LGT. The Forester is easy. Maybe a window pillar?Again, my stage 4 car has a VBG-1 to monitor boost / AFR . Oil Pressure soon. That's all I need to monitor unless I'm tuning then I have my laptop connected.

 

Recommended:

Kartboy short throw

braided steel brake and turbo lines.

Hawk pads

better radiator

Walbro 255 (even with stock injectors)

 

Comments/help will be greatly appreciated. FYI: with approximately the same mods on the Forester XTs, they came in at 298 and 310 whp respectively--on a Mustang Dyno. Both were 5spds, and both had Blouch 16g's. The gearing on the Forester XT makes them wicked quick from stoplight to stoplight.

I'd rethink your strategy. If you were building the car for yourself, I'd be more inclined to say do whatever you want. Unless your friend like constantly fixing things, stop reading here. You say the turbo has nearly 200k miles on it so i'll assume the chassis does too. You need to do the routine stuff like struts / springs, swaybars, brakes in addition to the motor. For an estimate on total cost for the motor rebuild, make up a number you think it will cost, then double it. Plan for that amount and use the leftovers for the rest of the stuff you want.

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only two banjo filters. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html

 

Keep the stock intake, it's good till big HP.

 

I say no to the LWCP

 

And no to the TGV delete

 

I will say to replace the o-rings between the TGV's and intake manifold with the new larger orange ones.

 

How many miles on the engine and turbo ? the vf40 should be replaced around 130,000 miles.

 

I went with a vf52 easy bolt on.

 

I had a Spec2+ now have a Spec2 clutch in there. The 2+ was fine for 85,000+ miles I replaced it when I put the ej257 in. I have their LWFW too with a new friction surface, the Spec 2 has been flawless for the 33,000 miles so far never chattered once.

 

IMO you have a lot of items he doesn't need.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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