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-   -   Wash,cleaner wax,polish and wax (

lgtftw 12-07-2012 11:39 AM

I did my winter prep in 2 days. Wash and clay Friday night, meg 205 and Meg 21 Saturday night. After the kids and wife go to sleep, total about 6 hours. I use the 7424XP. It was the second time that car had been washed ever ( I had just gotten it). For the interior, I don't spend much time, vac, wipe down, Folex on spots, Aerospace 303, Stoners for windows; after all that is done, I may go back with several brushes to get to the other spots that I could not get to before. Usually about 2 hours.

RallyMachine 12-07-2012 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by OCDetails (Post 4191032)
Glaze should not go before the sealant. A sealant will not bond to a glaze. The surface should oil and wax free before laying down a sealant.

It can be done, but you need to wait 12-24 hours for the glaze to cure.

I did my last car in about 2 days too. Wash, Clay, 2.5 compound, 1 compound, polish, glaze, sealant, wax, wash (to clean excess compound dust off).

Polish/compounds take the longest because they need to be broken down and worked into the paint instead of apply and wipe. This was with the PC 7424 as well.

OCDetails 12-07-2012 05:41 PM

Regardless of if the product is cured or not, I'm telling you that polymer, acrylic, and ceramic sealants will not bond to oils and waxes or anything else with paint fillers in it. The only thing sealants bond with are other sealants. The whole thing that makes a glaze a glaze is the oils in it which make the surface look all wet. Dealerships use them all the time to hid swirls and rotary burns on paint. Then in a couple days when the oils evaporate you are left with a crappy paint job that wasn't there when you bought the car. The only thing a glaze is good for is hiding damage that you couldn't correct. It isn't a product that really belongs in a 23 hour detail. After 23 hours of polishing there better not be a mark on that paint. The glaze is simply not something that adds anything to the shine if you are dealing with perfect paint and are planning on using a sealant. You don't have to use every product in the cupboard when you detail. Sometimes it is just an either/or situation.

xero287 12-15-2012 05:57 AM

Lol, you're fast. I don't charge by the hour, but I will increase the price based upon how screwed up the paint/interior is. It's great when people leave a good amount of trash in the car thinking that I'll clean it and not increase the price because, "That's what I'm there to do anyway".

My starting rate for a 2-step is $375. Most times I take the wheels off and clean the calipers too. Same thing if the customer has a stainless steel or titanium exhaust.

Roadog1aj 12-15-2012 05:24 PM

I was turned on to Zano Bros line of car cleaners and washes (Z7 is what I use) when I needed to move away from what I was using. Awesome stuff! It even removes the stubborn bugs I collected each and every day, without tons of elbow grease. Once I washed and dried the car, then I use Turtle Wax Ice Premium Care for a good coat of wax. I have a black 2011 Cadillac Escalade EXT. The truck looks incredible when it's clean, but Holy Crap is it hard to wash and keep clean, so I needed to find the best thing I could, just to save myself from all the pain and agony of scrubbing and waxing constantly. The Ice wax lasts for a super long time too.

Diggerdan11 12-17-2012 10:38 AM

I use nothing but Adams products and it takes anywhere from 8-24 hours to detail my vehicles depending on the amount of correction needed, and that does not include any cure time.

If the paint is in good shape but I just want to make it look shiny I do everything by hand and it can take as little as 8 hours. If the paint needs a lot of correction I use my Porter Cable and it could take up to 24 hours to get to perfection.

OCDetails 12-17-2012 10:54 AM

Nothing against the Porter Cable, but when time is money you definitely want to look at something a little more efficient. If perfection is on the menu, then you want more power. Even if just saving some time is important, then you want a faster machine. The Flex 3401 reduces my time by about 30%. Considering I can fit another $300 job into the day because of the time savings, I'd say it is a worthwhile investment. It paid for itself the first weekend I used it. It is still a DA polisher, so it won't burn the paint like a rotary. But if you are spending 24 hours on paint, then you really should step up to a rotary anyway. You could probably cut the time in half if you did.

Diggerdan11 12-17-2012 01:05 PM

^ A Flex is on my to-buy list

Im not a pro-detailer and the PC has worked very well for me so far, but I do want a flex to move up to that next level, maybe this next summer I will think about upgrading.

usually when i spend up to 24 hours detailing it is a big 100% full detail including the engine bay, undercarriage, wheels, interior etc...

FJuan 12-17-2012 01:16 PM

Average time for me is between 4 - 5 hours. Interior and exterior - wash, clay, machine polish, poly/sealant wax.

An extra 30 - 45 mins if I'm detailing the engine bay.

An extra 1 hour if i'm drinking. :lol:

OCDetails 12-17-2012 04:00 PM

^^ LOL Yeah, an extra hour if there is drinking and then an extra 3 hours to fix everything you screwed up when you notice it all the next day. lol ;)

ktm200 12-30-2012 02:50 PM

When I did a full 2 step correction to my car I spent probably around 16ish hours. That was a wash, clay, 2 step polish, paint cleaner (remove polish oils), and 2 coats of sealant. I'm real slow taping a car off and was also using a porter cable. Gets the job done but is very slow. Probably could have been done faster if I rushed but I didn't want to do any panel twice and wanted the hard work to last.

I'm probably 9months after doing the correction and the car looks just as good. Generally I just do a good wash and occasionally a spray sealant to boost the shine between waxing. This usually takes about 1 to 1.5 hrs.

I clay and re seal with two coats of sealant every 3-4 months now. That takes me maybe 4hrs. Looks good enough to keep me happy.

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