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Omfg, it finally happened.....


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Well, while cruising on I45 in Houston on the Northside by greenspoint in noon time traffic, I got hit out if the blue with a fuel cut, and the magic CEL. I put the car in neutral, revved to listen for issues(yeah I'm simple like that), put the car back in drive, and had NOOOOO power. I immediately put it in neutral, coasted off the freeway, found a motel that didn't have an obstructed view of the freeway, and shut it off. I popped the hood, smelled nothing, saw nothing. Got out the code reader--- misfire in #4, AVCS bank 1.... Cleared the codes, turned on the ignition allowed 45 seconds for the checksum and then cranked the engine. It took approx 4 seconds for the engine to find the idle, and when it did finally get there, I had smoke pulsing from the intake and the exhaust.... I shut it off and read the codes again, nothing pending. I made arrangements to get the car to the dealership(gillman South) and towed the damn thing there. I had a compression test done, and #4 held nothing...... I had the dealer pull the motor and pull the head I determine WTF happened. #4 has a hole burned through the crown of the piston to the first ring... After a thorough investigation, we figured out that the injector took a dump, an caused a super lean situation and major hot spot on the piston, thus killing the motor. The tune I have on the car has been the same for 6 years with NO malfunctions at all. The dealer was shocked at the "perfect" condition of the turbo, and how good the car looks for being nine years old, original build date- October 2004. SWP Legacy GT wagon 5EAT. Mileage at time of failure 106800 miles.

 

 

Okay, now with the reason for this thread.... Wth do I do. The car is paid for, I have 6500 for either a complete rebuil of the longblock, or a downpayment. I have oodles tied up in this car-

Coilovers

Sways

Bushings

IPT full performance rebuild(33 k on this trans) 5g for this alone

Intake

Exhaust

Goodrich brake lines

Wheels, etc.....

 

Do I rebuild or do I just sell the parts on the car and use the additional money gathered to buy another car? I am so torn, as I have done all the labor on installs for every part on this car down to the trans and diff fluids, brakes, and virtually everything else for exception of the wheels. I know virtually every nuance with this car, and feel as though I have lost a friend, but know that rebuilding will cost a lot of money and I will never see a return for a complete rebuild of the engine.... Any input folks? I'm welcome to anything...

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This has been an ongoing question that people have been asking the forum for as long as I've been a part of it. It's a difficult call for anyone else but you state a couple of things:

 

1. It's paid for.

2. You feel like you've lost a friend

3. The car is in "perfect" condition other than the engine

4. You've done all the work on everything else yourself

5. The mods are exactly like you want them

6. The tune has been in for 6 years and it's never been a problem

7. You have "oodles" tied up in this car

8. It's paid for

9. It's paid for

10.It's paid for

 

I think that about sums it up. Get the engine fixed, enjoy the car for another 6 years because you KNOW everything about the car already and how to fix it and maintain it, and because you value the car as an old friend. Keep it in the perfect condition as it is now, enjoy the boost and fun it brings, and when it comes time, sell it if you want to and don't worry about the money spent because by the end of another 6 years, it won't matter anyway.

 

Sometimes, it's just not about the money, but about what you like and need and want. :)

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Rebuild.

 

They don't make a car like that anymore.

 

Oh did I say, bang for the buck ?

 

You may want to check the turbo for play, think about replacing it next year. Do you have a catless up pipe ?

 

How much will they sell you a ej257 short block for ? check the price from Fredbeans. A vendor here. I think its around $1600.

 

If they won't give you a good discount, tow the car home or some place else.

 

See the click here button in my sig.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Oh, and by the way, I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan AWD that I've owned since 2005 and it now has over 305K on it. At 244K I spent $1400 on the transmission because I really love the vehicle. It's taken me rock climbing hundreds of times, mountainbiking hundreds of times, through the shitty winter weather thousands of times without ever getting stuck or even sliding around, and I plan on driving it for another 100K at least because I really like it.

 

It's paid for (I paid cash for it in 2005 with 88K on it), it's like an old friend because I've slept in it hundreds of nights on the bunk I have in the back for climbing, it gets me where I need to go in crappy weather, the heater is amazing, the A/C works great, the stereo is excellent, and it's even starting to show some rust, and I would pay for an engine or transmission for it tomorrow if it needed it because I like it, irregardless of the cost. :)

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If $6500 into a car worth not much more then $11k makes sense to you, do it. If a car payment doesn't make sense where you're at in your life, fix it.

 

If you have options, go buy something more reliable.

 

I lost a motor last March and got it fix May-July. I dropped $4500 on a forged rebuild because I'm getting married next year and shortly after I realized the motor took a dump I was buying a ring and the like. Priorities are different. Had this happened now I would have bought a different car and walked away from this troublesome mess.

 

PS - remember there is down time. A local shop quoted me 30 days and forged internals. It took over 90 by the time it was all resolved. Other things were found during the rebuild and added to the bill slightly.

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Oh, and by the way, I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan AWD that I've owned since 2005 and it now has over 305K on it. At 244K I spent $1400 on the transmission because I really love the vehicle. It's taken me rock climbing hundreds of times, mountainbiking hundreds of times, through the shitty winter weather thousands of times without ever getting stuck or even sliding around, and I plan on driving it for another 100K at least because I really like it.

 

It's paid for (I paid cash for it in 2005 with 88K on it), it's like an old friend because I've slept in it hundreds of nights on the bunk I have in the back for climbing, it gets me where I need to go in crappy weather, the heater is amazing, the A/C works great, the stereo is excellent, and it's even starting to show some rust, and I would pay for an engine or transmission for it tomorrow if it needed it because I like it, irregardless of the cost. :)

 

 

Oh man, you just moved down a few rungs on my ladder of respect, dodge caravan... :lol:

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Same boat as you a year ago. Feel your pain and frustration. Knocking but no turbo damage. Dealer estimate was insane.

 

My problem was although it was paid off, I was not in a position for a new car. Problem # 2 I love the thing and anything I want is out of the price range. My Subaru tech does work on the side and saved me a ton which made it easier.

 

So a new short block in @ 101K. Timing belt kit and clutch while we were at it. New wheel bearing as well. Needed new exhaust valve in cylinder 2 (replaced all four that side while it was open) @116K. Running lean. Need new tune. Hopefully get another three years out of it and hope Subaru brings back a hot wagon to the US. A used V70 R would be awesome, but maintenance would be hell.

 

Keep that wagon and good luck!

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Ok

Turbo- zero shaft play, why the dealer said it was amazing.

Dealer rebuild w oem short block-- just shy of 9 grand

My ideal block- all forged, acl bearings, all arp fasteners, oem gaskets per builder, oem Sti induction hardened crank, supertech valves w nitride coating- all 16, new valve guides and seals, refresh the heads and assemble longblock. Approximate cost of rebuild incl labor around 7500..... I have a daily driver that is mine for 2 yrs then I have to return it, more than ample time for rebuild. I really want to rebuild it, but am concerned by what I was told by the local subaru tuner shop- subaru cases are time bombs waiting to blow, as the luv system is poorly designed. I would love to hear from someone that has rebuilt their motor and how long it has lasted with some truly spirited driving.

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Rebuild.

It's already been said they don't make a car like that any more and there is a slim chance you will find a car you enjoy and know for what it costs to rebuild. Ok so you decide to buy a new car that you like as much as this one...now your making payments for the next three years all while dumping more money in mods to make it yours.

 

These cars are simple, do the work your self and save some money.

 

Again...rebuild.

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The crappy thing is that the dealer was stunned at the condition of the motor, as the 1-2-3 cylinder and pistons were in pristine condition. They even asked me if the short block was new. Uhhhhhhh, nope. It's because when I bought it with 11k miles on it I immediately did some fluid servicing with synthetic oil, diff fluids, and trans fluid. Then I serviced the coolant and from that day I serviced the oil every 3750 regardless. They determined the failure was due to a failed injector that was 9 years old... Not lack of maintenance or abuse. I still can't get over the shop foreman's reaction to how tight the turbo was, he thought I had replaced it before. Once again-- uhhhhhhhhh, nope. It just goes to show what maintenance can do on these cars. This is my third Scoob, and between all of them I have logged almost 500,000 miles total. This being my first forced induction model, I had to relearn all of the car, plus being that godforsaken Jatco 5EAT I had to find out the hard way about the demons it possessed. Other than the engine letting go, and the aforementioned trans issue, it has been yet another wonderful car.... I know you had to pay to play, but this is ridiculous...
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Not quite what I had in mind, but thanks.

 

Just PM him. Seems like he will build you whatever you'd like, and he seems cheaper than any dealership even after you factor in shipping.

 

This kind of makes me want to service my injectors...maybe a good idea on my '05...hmmm....

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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What are your hp goals ?

 

Have the car tuned by a good Tuner after the 500 break in. How far are you from Cobb ?

 

Have the car towed home or somewhere cheaper.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The question is rather in your case - how badly damaged was the block in the process? Is it good enough to be the base for a rebuild or did cylinder 4 take a total dump corrupting the block too?

 

Then it's up to you to decide, but if the car is in good condition and all the parts surrounding the block are fine then the cost for fixing it would be decent and worth it. You know what you have but you don't know what you will get.

 

And with the engine out of the bay you don't have any excuse for some additional cleaning and housekeeping in the engine bay on those hard to reach spots.

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I have 2..........both AWD.......SO THERE ! ! ! :p

 

Best van ever, tired of people saying domestics do not last. I see Jeeps and Dodges well over 200K all day long and when something breaks you don't need to mortgage the house fo fix it!

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What are your hp goals ?

 

Have the car tuned by a good Tuner after the 500 break in. How far are you from Cobb ?

 

Have the car towed home or somewhere cheaper.

 

HP Goals 400-425 AWHP possibly more w meth injection- if I go that route... Or more if I get a bigger turbo than a 20 g-- looking at tomioka's, or Garret's turbos. Haven't settled on anything smaller than a 20 g for sure though.

 

Distance from Cobb- 3 hrs drive time- straight up I45.

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