Stang70Fastback Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 So, does anyone have an answer for me? I put my RalliTek swaybars on my car about a month ago, and ever since I was getting a bit of a light clunk from the right rear when going over an undulating road surface. Today, since it's gotten louder, I finally tracked it down to being where the pin goes through the end of the swaybar. The whole in the swaybar simply leaves play, and so the pin thunks back and forth on the hole and makes a solid thunking noise inside the car. Am I missing something? I would think the hole was simply supposed to be the same size as the pin, but it isn't, it's larger (I used all the hardware and the new endlinks that came with the swaybar.) Should there be some sort of additional sleeve on the pin? Or could it be a manufacturing defect? I'm not sure how it's "supposed" to be set up other than compared with what came off my car. In fact, when I first installed it, I just tightened everything really tight, and only learned after it started squeaking that they are supposed to be a bit more than hand tight - so this is all a learning process for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lulzcow Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I had this same problem. It took a bit of research to figure it out. I still have the same problem on my front endlinks and swaybar. When you tightened the swaybar-endlink connection, the bolt was most likely not perfectly aligned within both the swaybar and the endlink. When you tightened the bolt down, what feels like the tightest you can get it...actually is not so. When your swaybar works, it moves in that little bit of space left over on the bolt. To fix this, get back under the car and make sure that the bolt is aligned completely horizontal so that there is no space when you have the nut tightened completely. With no free space, the swaybar cannot move, and will not "clunk" anymore. It will also stiffen up your swaying a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Ahh but you are thinking axially along the length of the bolt. That's not the problem I am having. The swaybar is most definitely tight against the endlink. My issue is that the hole in the swaybar, through which the bolt goes, is actually of a larger diameter than the bolt itself, so the swaybar bangs up and down on the bolt, not on the endlink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lulzcow Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Ah. Should have thoroughly read your problem lulz. I believe the swaybar bolt hole isn't exactly flush with the bolt on the Whiteline bar neither. But the rear doesn't bang around. Make sure you have your washers and bolt aligned properly. Whiteline's install had the bolt head oriented on the inside of the system, followed by a small washer, the swaybar, endlink, a large washer, and then finally the nut on the outside of system. I would also double check your mounts and mount bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogg Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 what endlinks u using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 The endlinks that came with the RalliTek swaybar. They are RalliTek endlinks, bushings, etc... I'm going to run outside now in the 20 degree weather and see if I can prop my phone up and get a quick video of what I am talking about. I just don't know what I could do to remedy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I had this problem twice and I've confirmed, through extensive investigation, that the rear sway bar contacts the lower control arm when the suspension is unloaded. look at the part of the bar right above the control arm and I'm sure you'll see contact marks. Solution to this is get longer endlinks, or adjustable ones. I have adjustable avo endlinks and had to extend them quite a bit to stop the contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 I don't think so. I saw the bolt moving around. Not sure why I'm posting this video, because I couldn't get the phone close enough for you to see, but the upper bolt moves around inside the swaybar. I don't know, bmx045, what car you are referring to, but there is no control arm anywhere near the swaybar on my setup... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ftu6zcvpY2E]RalliTek Swaybar/Endlink Clunk - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 oh, you have a f*cking 98. why am i even in this forum. whoops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 That's what I figured, lol. But yeah, not sure what to do at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lulzcow Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 You should get a washer between that bolt head and the swaybar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 try going to the harware store. go to the piping section and finding a pipe or pipes that will fit around that bolt and if you have to drive the sway out a little tiny to make it snug in there. or get a bolt with a slight tapper BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colby Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 did you solve this. I am thinking about buying the rear rallitek kit curious what happened Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Ahh I'm sorry I never answered this thread. I did resolve the issue. I simply spent $2.00 at a hardware store for a new set of carriage bolts, and some additional washers. Also discovered that in my stupidity, I had installed the washers that came with the kit backwards. ALSO for some reason the torque wrench that I had used from AutoZone must have been horribly calibrated, because when I used my friend's torque wrench, they got a lot tighter before it clicked. So it seems more like it was just some stupidity on my part. Everything is fine now other that a bit of squeaking which I mean to fix with some added grease when I get a chance. Couldn't be happier! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted May 16, 2012 I Donated Share Posted May 16, 2012 ALSO for some reason the torque wrench that I had used from AutoZone must have been horribly calibrated Any torque wrench I've got on loaner from a parts store...or even any one I have ever borrowed from anyone else never gave accurate readings. I got tired of it and eventually just bought an electronic one from Snap On. It was almost $600 -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colby Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Brown-Line-BLD0212-Digital-Torque/dp/B0032A60W2]Amazon.com: Brown Line Metal Works BLD0212 Digital Torque Wrench: Automotive[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gergeek Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 just tightened mine up, so nice to not hear that clunk anymore haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 So you are satisfied with this product? I am looking at it since it is cheaper than whiteline, but havent heard or seen much on the comparison. If the whiteline is better, ill save for an extra few days and get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 I am satisfied. I feel as though the issues are all a result of my n00bness at all this stuff. The bars themselves (front and rear) seemed well-made and well-coated. I actually made another idiot mistake when I bought the new bolts, as mentioned in this thread. I did not buy stainless steel bolts. So a few weeks later, I started getting some squeaking, and when I tried to remove the bolts, I realized everything had rusted together. Spent over an hour banging the bolts out and replaced them with stainless steel bolts. I'm not sure why I had the initial problem with the bolts seeming to leave just a bit of play. Even my replacement bolts have a bit of play in them between them and the steel ring that goes through the bushings. Keeping them from knocking seems to be dependent on how hard you tighten them down. I've also had trouble keeping the bar from squeaking with the new rear end-links and bushings that it came with - ended up buying thick, tractor grease and so far it's been quiet. The front sway-bar has given me no trouble since I installed it, other than when going over severely uneven ground (like exiting a steep driveway at an angle) I get some sort of pop from the front. Not sure what causes it - it's clearly related to the sway-bar, but it's also clearly not the sway-bar itself. The rear sway-bar came with new end-links, but the front one did not so it may just be the old end-links binding on something and then popping free under severe twisting. I WOULD recommend getting upgraded sway-bar mounts if you can. I've read that the stock mounts can easily break with upgraded sway-bars, and so every time I drive over severely uneven ground, I always fear one of the mounts is going to snap - especially because I have an Outback, so there is already more articulation to begin with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Stang, appreciate the answer. It seems like it is something a lot of guys will mess up being you dont wanna break something. I had been looking into a WHITELINE Rear swaybar, and all around links. How ever is it necessary to do the sway bar mounts right away or can i do them later? Have you broken them yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 I haven't broken mine and I've had them over a year... ...AND I've auto-crossed the car and driven all over the place. So maybe you don't REALLY need to upgrade them... or maybe I'm extremely lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Heres my deal...im getting coilovers, rear links kit (6 pc), and rear sway bar and links (4 pc). I have new ball joints and doing tie rods soon...so really ist a master bushing kit worth it? I am going with really lucky haha. I might do the whiteline mounts with the bar and links at one time. I hope I dont need them but either way you are lucky haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I beat the piss out of my stock endlinks all the time and have a Whiteline rear sway. Maybe I'll get lucky someday and break one so I can upgrade, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I beat the piss out of my stock endlinks all the time and have a Whiteline rear sway. Maybe I'll get lucky someday and break one so I can upgrade, lol. A sweet trick it to take a sawzall and notch them. They will break in 2 minutes of snow drifting. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 It will be a fun two minutes though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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