AlexShu

Installed in the car, can't wait to fill and paint it to make it proper legit Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'm not sure I'm willing to produce those as they do require some finishing, but there are a ton of maker spaces and services that 3d print and it will be much cheaper to do this on your own, also I'm not even on the continent Thanks Infosecdad, feedback for improvement will be much appreciated. Thanks rhino6303, feedback for improvement will be much appreciated as well.

Today, I finished designing this: (A 3d printed clock relocation bracket) full thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clock-relocation-bracket-development-gen-4-3d-print-287513.html

Thank you guys Well chasing perfection stopped After a whole spool + of filament, roughly some 50+ hours of printing and at least 7 hours of modeling, I present you this : the test prints the final model assembly (just gluing the parts with 5 minute epoxy: fitment: I messed up the gluing (the parts moved and not perfectly align) so I printed another go, this time I ran out of black so printed in silver. What's next: Tomorrow Ill install it in the car and ill post pictures of it in the car. A friend will print it for me in PETG on his Prusa Mini this one ill finish till the end Might make a video of the whole process Now will any body be willing to print this and confirm fitment on his car Thingiverse page: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5243675 Enjoy

It should be pretty easy to design a pod that bolts to the original vent in some manner, unfortunately I dont have any gauges nor any dimensions Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Almost there Achieved perfect fit of the clock module Added a "funnel" from the face to the clock to widen the FOV and it looks much nicer. Printed the parts and glued them (this time in white). Test fitted in the car - I'm not very happy with the fitment of the face plate, ill try to improve it, also might add 2 more degrees to make the clock more horizontal.

Well what can I say, its a work in progress I have refined the clock model a bit, but it still not perfect. Print and part strength optimization - decided to cut the part in half and print a face and the rest independently and glue them. In the image green is face, red is the rest, black is the clock. currently printing the face

You also have a few alternatives, Im currently looking into the Teyes system that goes instead of the cubby so the original system stays and even operational (unless you have the original nav), Ill try to make a review soon. Oh and nothing you choose is cheap ... maybe only aux mods.

Is Done ! STLs here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5243675 Hi All, I thought ill share my journey if anyone is interested. So after installing an aftermarket head unit in the cubby the clock is looking for a new home and AFAIK my options are: JDM Clock relocation kit (unavailable and expensive) Don't use it (nah, I want it) Buy a 3d Printed unit for 60$ here (shipping not included, its unfinished and expensive). 3D print an existing model on thingiverse or this (I tried, the fitment is poor, mounting wont fit the holes -probably different trim, very hard to print and I don't like the angle) Waste a ton of time and filament to develop one that fits perfectly this, this I like. My current progress: Replicate the trim model with precise angles - Perfect- - Done! Fit trim mounting holes - Done! Replicate clock model - Perfect - Done! Combine the two into a good angle and fitment - Done! Optimize for FDM printing (as little supports as possible and quick print) - Done! Release final STL (model) files to the public - Done. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5243675 Print with PETG (most fitting printable polymer type for automotive use) glaze, paint and finish a suberb looking bracket - Not Started. The extension cable issue - ??? The Cable: So I dug around and found the connectors that are used to connect the clock. Its the i59 harness, the connector type is "040 Connector", a 10 pin type. I thought of ordering the connectors and the pins and make the cable myself. Sources: https://sl-i.net/FORUM/archive/index.php/t-17153.html https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/040_Connectors/040_connectors.html https://www.hi-1000ec.com/product/196 BUT! I have managed to release the clip behind the cubby and free the cable, it almost reaches the bottom part of the console, I think some tape around the harness is keeping it from reaching even further, so currently ill try with out an extension and we will see. The Plate: Process (a random transparent filament is used for testing) first fitment : Result is OK but I don't like the angle, its too upwards, makes it to hard to clear the stuff behind the trim and a nightmare to remove. More to come...

Did you check both boxes (under the hood and inside)? and how did you test them? best method is with a voltmeter on DC mode ground the black and go over both sides of the fuses with the red (without pulling them out on their back side there are 2 metal contacts). on my 09 when I pulled the Audio/Navi fuse random stuff stopped working in the car, and of course the HU.

Yes, these are left hand drive. what is this filter you mentioned? Ok there is some interest. good to know. guys please specify what portion of the HU you need: HVAC module only (disassembledfrom face plate) HVAC with face plate (AMP part disassembled) Whole HU

Hi guys, You might remember me from this post around 10 years ago: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/legacy-2009-caska-multimedia-system-installation-164798.html It was my dads car and now its mine and since then there have been some changes made, the original Kenwood faceplate was modified to fit a double din in there and fitted with an Alpine HU and then with an ATOTO A6, now I'm looking into buying an OEM Android unit that will go between the vents, therefore wanted to rollback to the original HU that came with the car, and I found 3-4 units wandering around the local market just like my original one GX-204LE where the HVAC control is a separate unit. http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc43/Blinkergrip/legacy/IMAG0012.jpg Is anyone here interested in the HVAC control unit/HU/just the faceplates or any combination of those ? I've seen 3-4 units ranging in wear and price, up to 130$. Keep in mind I'm from Israel and International shipping for heavy HUs is expensive. Also willing to sell the Caska unit from the thread above for a very reasonable price, if anyone is interested in this dinosaur. By no means I'm looking to get profit, just want to help fellow gen4 legacy owners. If you are interested please specify what portion of the HU you need: HVAC module only (disassembledfrom face plate) HVAC with face plate (AMP part disassembled) Whole HU