ji126652

I looked and it says there's a self diagnostic HVAC mode, but I don't even have all the buttons to do it, so I guess it's not for my 2012 Legacy model? Every other diagnostic seems to require the Subaru Select Monitor... Would something like BTSSM be able to replace that for getting all the diagnostic codes (DTC)? Actually it does explicitly say to check the refrigerant pressure if cold air stops blowing (which is what happens in my car), and the instructions for that seem easy enough. I've also read that the O-rings suck and they commonly go bad, causing a leak. Anyone know of a decent, relatively inexpensive set of manifold gauges to check this? I'm NOT looking to possibly fix this as a DIY job (i'll go to a mechanic for that), but it'd give me a piece of mind to know whether the pressure is so low that the compressor isn't kicking in...

I think just the clutch, so yea that's all I'd want to check by doing this. Dumb question here, but if I do a manifold gauge pressure check (following the service manuals instructions), then I don't need the system purged right? In other words, no air/contaminants are introduced?

My AC isn't working on my 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i, so I want to run test (delivery) mode to see that the electronics in the compressor is working. I know how to do this, but when turning test mode off, is it as simple as turn the key off and then disconnect the green cables? Is there any reprogramming needed? Also, I'm confused as to where the AC relay is, or if there even is one. In the fuse box, it says there should be an AC relay, but looking, there's nothing there, nor is there even metal connectors for a relay... (I tried uploading pictures but it won't let me). Looking at the repair manual, it looks like there is only an AC compressor fuse? Is this correct?

This makes sense, particularly since on the 3.6R the shroud is one unit as displayed in the picture, which looks annoying (= as you say, might damage the radiator) to take out without removing the upper hoses.

Yea that makes more sense. No reason not to just unplug the damn thing and look and clean it a bit...

Thanks! I'll try that! I live in Albany NY, so the corrosion thing is definite possible!

Seems like both fans crapped out and aren't running (Subaru Legacy 2012 2.5i, 104k miles). I will do diagnostics soon to see what's up, but in the meantime had a question about removing the fans. Just looking in, it looks like I can take out the air intake snorkle, take out the coolant reservoir, and basically have enough room to take the condenser fan shroud, then pull out slightly/move over the radiator fan shroud (since the upper radiator hose is in the way.) Why then do most videos/the service manual drain the coolant, remove hoses, and pull the two fan units from the bottom (or from the top, removing the upper hose, as per the service manual, see attached)? Is there something I'm missing here? This looks nothing as bad as say, a spark plug change (which didn't require me to do anything difficult really...)

Thanks, will do!

Just an update, I heard the noise again for a very brief moment after the car was driven for a while, but ONLY when I went in reverse, which now makes me wonder if the issue is the CVT (considering for my 2012 Subaru and I'm guessing other Subarus there was an extended 100k/10 year warranty issued.)

Also, if I just slip the serpentine belt off to check the alternator pulley, what should I look for? Noise free and freely moving with minimal to no friction?

I forgot to mention that there is a constant "whizzing" sound coming from the alternator, kind of like a loud bug, rather than a "grinding" noise. I've read somewhere that this is normal? It just has me worried a bit.

Yup, EJ253 for my 2.5i

2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i here with 97,500 miles. I've read that it's never a bad idea to replace an alternator at around 100k miles, but I've also read here that Subaru alternators can last "a very, very long time." Thoughts? Also I've read on this forum that Duralast are really good alternators, but they don't make new ones for my Subaru. Any thoughts on the next best kind? Or get remanufactured? Lastly any thoughts on when the Crank Pulley should be replaced? Should I just wait for the tell-tale signs of the pulley (or related engine parts) to go bad, like misfiring or rattling noises or vibrations? Thanks!

Hi Everyone, 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i with 97,500 miles. For only two days, when I started my car up, I heard a low rattling noise for just a minute or two when I hit the accelerator, kind of like in the first 5 seconds of but maybe a little lower. After this it went completely away After the second day I checked my oil dipstick and it was low so I topped it off with a quart, and now when I check it cold it's on the "high" end of the dipstick. Ever since doing this, I haven't noticed the noise even at a cold start before the car warms up, nor have I noticed any other noises. Any thought on what's up? It seems probably like an engine issue, and I'm guessing a timing tensioner issue, since they are (I think) oil pressurized (the logic being, adding more oil seemed to immediately fix the problem.) I definitely plan to get this checked out soon, but I won't be able to do this for another few days. I guess at 97,500 miles, I should just do an entire timing belt kit replacement!? Maybe I should check the timing belt ASAP before driving it to make sure it's OK and that the belt isn't stretched or frayed (looking through the viewing hole on the left side/taking off the timing cover on the right.) Thanks!

2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i owner here. The maintenance manual says to "inspect" the differential oil every 30k miles. How often should this actually be changed!? I know it's an easy job but I don't really have a good place to do it at the moment so waiting could save me some money (77K miles on it, about 8 years old.)