SpecDubC

Thanks I'll check the next time the thing is opened up. I think that they probably didn't connect that but I did leave that disclaimer note to them when they installed my head unit after I plugged all the harnesses in. So hopefully it's not connected in a way that's damaged maybe just needs grounded. And if anyone's wondering this is the DMX957XR model head unit. It's nice because it has the gauge cluster screen when they install this with the correct maestro unit.

Rt assassinationFigured I would update with my excellent results aside from just missing led illumination on the button backlighting for the climate controls. I thought I read a solution in here for that and I'm wondering if it had something to do with the ribbon cable disconnected between the two circuit boards from the EU head unit? Also my temp does show up in Fahrenheit not Celsius. So that was a pleasant surprise. Probably the best option for double din I've seen aside from not painting the black faceplate trim thus far. To be specific, parts used: Ebay Russian double din trim faceplate, tight fit fab's i88, i85, aux and radio adapters, and a EU left hand head unit with tI jhe separate climate controls along. Swapped all the buttons and the lcd and plastic cover entirely from my old head unit transferred to this double din faceplate. Lots of screws to be swapped in this process, but managed to do it all cleanly. Notice the non reversed buttons.

So I have the 2015 sti steering rack on my car, but I recently may have bent something after hitting a curb and figured hey I was going to make this upgrade eventually its just forcing my hand now. Wondered if anyone had installed these, I feel like the fitment would be the same for the legacy vs the impreza wheel hub wise and would just need the 2007+ wrx abs sensor. https://usa.wisefab.com/subaru-impreza-1992-2014-front-drop-knuckle-kit Here is the rack extenders for the 2015 m20 threads: https://usa.wisefab.com/wfgd3-610a-subaru-impreza-1992-2014-front-m20x1-5-rack-extender-kit-for-2015-my-steering-rack Any help appreciated, ... max, underdog? Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Yeah I have the clone double din faceplate that guy in Russia sold on ebay. Can't get stuff from RU now lol. And by electronics I am guessing you mean already have the same type of climate control just usdm. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

So I'll probably be getting the i88 with antenna and stereo i85. Question regarding this, I have the P-204UH and swapping the LHD EDM model in so I don't have the issues with the RHD JDM fitment bias along w the Russian double din trim for aftermarket stereo. Just making sure this is going to work the same. Going into a 2008 USDM gt limited without nav. Thanks in advance.

So, sorry for being repetitive, I just need a straight up answer, what else is needed to convert Rev D USDM BL front end (2008) to JDM Rev D? My current understanding is: JDM Bumper Cover JDM Bumper Reinforcement (Crash Beam) JDM Fenders (fit the slightly diff headlight profile for JDM) JDM Headlights (with under supports pieces) JDM Grille (fit the bumper profile) I may be leaving out fog lights if there are some mounting differences there? Might be looking at aftermarket there anyway. Aside from different headlight/fog light wiring I assume none of the underworking (brackets) around the radiator etc. which are typically sold with a front clip are actually different or necessary to convert? Thanks

Hello I have a drone mobile x1 system and compustar remote starter installed on my 08 LGT... My car audio shop which installed this did it correctly for my manual but they insisted on the sequence of locking the car etcetera and shut down to where you have to get out of the car first then lock and this puts the remote start in a ready state. The second I get back in to grab any items or unlock the car and open the door at all it disables this ready state. I saw somewhere on the forums here that someone had wired a relay with the neutral safety switch which had a fail off mode in case the neutral safety switch went out. I suspect it's only liability that is keeping my audio installer from setting it up this way without the sequence or they are just unaware that there is a fail safe relay setup which would work with my car instead of having to the shutdown sequence. Don't like having to start my car back up in the winter just because I realized I left something in it so it can be ready for remote starting the next day. I believe it's setup currently where once the car is 1, put into neutral, 2, parking brake on, and then 3, my foot taken completely off the brake pedal, then the relay clicks and triggers, my key is removable with the car running, then the security takes it from there and it waits until I exit the car, lock it, and then it will arm the alarm and turn off the engine. It seems it's tied to the door being opened because I can hit unlock at this point but not open any doors, then upon hitting lock it goes back to ready state. If however I open a door (after unlocking of course) the ready state is lost and the car must be started again, parking brake taken off, shifted out of neutral (any gear) and back into neutral with the brake pedal (and clutch of course) pressed (just needs to enter neutral again), the parking brake reapplied then foot taken off brake pedal (relay clicks), key removed, exit vehicle, lock with fob, arms alarm and turns off the engine. Does anyone know of that post or how to do this where if the neutral safety switch goes out for some reason it will fail closed for the remote start relay? I'd like to remove the door opening from the equation. The way I see the current failsafe bypassed would be if I dukes of hazard got in through the window after doing the current steps to ready the remote start and shifted into a gear without touching any brakes, OR if someone stayed in the car, they could technically do the same, not set off the alarm and it would cause the dangerous remote start condition to my knowledge if it's not constantly checking the neutral safety switch. It seems the brake pedal or door opening sensor are both conditions which trip the relay to a closed (off) condition. I think it just needs to have the neutral safety switch work as a closed (off) condition for the relay when it is at any point taken out of neutral, also the parking brake unapplied would help too. I would think either of these could be setup without parasitic battery drain. (the drone mobile system already does this to some degree).

Is this the part you are referring to for both sides? I realize I would need that too, bolts included (circled in blue)? Also could buy some of the crash beam parts shown in this pic if I don't want to trim I suppose. Here's the link to megazip, they are pretty thorough when it comes to diagrams by chassis code too. The link is to the JDM 6 speed facelift models I believe: https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/subaru/legacy-2159/bl5f-6441/bl5-4ch-552535/front-bumper-7080514# Still trying to avoid buying a whole nose cut just because I don't have the means to keep many large extra parts around to sell right now.

Yes, if I remember correctly it was the same style with a metal seal on one side. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Does the yellow chromate on top drop the anodic index closer to alluminum and steel? They say especially in outdoor environments (water exposed) that having dissimilar metals is even worse. You can tell when certain bolts are galvanized, stainless, or heat treated usually by visual finish. Would be good to have a pic here for examples for people's reference. I wish I had this when I overhauled my rear subframe. Ended up putting layers and layers of rattle can first with primer/galvanized zinc spray/Ace Rust Stop black/Clear coat. Probably too many layers if I'm honest and not as durable as I hoped but hopefully I'll be replacing with a chromoly one after it wears out.

Wondering if any of the German market left hand drives had this one. I've heard fitment is slightly biased from RHD on this or is that easily avoided by swapping your existing duct pieces? It appears those are held on by a screw on each side and snap fit on the top on the USDM spec b nav trim I have. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Update, Wisefab makes a front drop knuckle that supports 5x100 and 5x114.3 hubs with adapter pieces as well as adapter piece for the strut. I need to pull some measurements but I'm assuming these knuckles chould be used in place of the 2008 sti knuckles. https://www.flatironstuning.com/wisefab-front-knuckles-02-14-wrx-04-14-sti https://www.wisefab.com/subaru-impreza-1992-2014-front-drop-knuckle-kit Per their website: "Mounting points for 5x100 or 5x114,3 wheel bearings Either 2005 - STI 5x114,3 bolted wheel bearing (28373VA000) or 2007 - 2013 WRX 5x100 bolted wheel bearing (28373FG000) can be used" Not sure the 07-13 wrx 5x100 wheel hubs have same fitment as 05-09 LGT? Also mentions wheel speed sensors being compatible. They come with tie rod ends as part of the knuckle for anti roll correction and after emailing their engineering which is overseas Allar (his name) has informed me they have different length tie rod ends so this could probably facilitate my longer 2015 sti steering rack tie rods, or the OEM Legacy length tie rods. This would also make the wheel swap easier as I would not have to source 5x114.3 wheels and hubs right away. Further investigation will have to come from me on fitment when I get under the car again, but I assume I'll have the adjustability especially if I am converting to coilovers soon to compensate for drop knuckle height as needed. Their engineer also informed me that they plan on making a multilink rear suspension conversion in the near future this year, for 'newer' Subarus, not sure that will be bolt-on solution for our trailing arms though. Although I've already re-bushed my front aluminum lower control arms with whiteline bushings, someone had informed me of the inferior design on the joint vs the Impreza LCA. Though my current ones would definitely have more mileage at this point I'm also considering upgrading to the RacerX adjustable LCA additionally keeping more things equal regarding the knuckle swap fitment although it's rumored to be very similar if not identical dimensions to our LCA. Note there's multiple generations of these on their website, specifically looking at 2008 sti fitment... https://racerxfabrication.com/wrx-sti/suspension/front-lower-control-arms Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Good question. The one I bought has orange seal on both sides but then when I took the original oem one out it looks to have a different color seal or more metal finish in nature to my memory. Seems like it's been running fine with the double side sealed one I put in though. I'll try to remember to snap a pic of the one I pulled vs the other new one I have sitting. Also, probably already pasted but here's the NASOIC similar thread on their forums here: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Fforums%2Enasioc%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D2127419&share_tid=2127419&share_fid=468&share_type=t&link_source=app Someone had updated the thread with pictures with o-ring sizes written out.

Bumping this for attention. So far 3 people I count myself as one. Two more people and we can get one made. I'm not dead set on 13.5 either I could do 10" Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk