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  1. Went ahead and soldered it because I didn’t want to wait for another part. I am seeing much more stable afr, corrections and learnings after doing this. It’s weird because I replaced it with a Denso that did match up perfectly. The car ran the same after it so I never thought it was the o2. The only difference was I got that one from O’Reilly. Not the first time I have bought shoddy things from there. I replaced my moms clutch master cylinder twice and both times it started leaking shortly after eventually leaving my mom stranded. Went Oem and problem solved. Also an alternator once. I have sworn to never buy parts from them again but figured it’s a Denso it’s gotta be good right? Anyway I also put a can of 44k in. If I don’t revive this thread that means problem solved. One thing I have noticed is there isn’t a slight dip in rpm when I snap the throttle at idle.
  2. I believe I did get the oem sensor. At least it’s the one Max Capacity recommended and from my research it is oem.
  3. Hey guys just got the new o2 sensor and I think I’m going to have to splice in the female connector. Is soldering the connections ok to do here? I feel like if I do it closer to the connection side it won’t get nearly hot enough to melt solder.
  4. Thanks Scotty the difference is that I’m getting just the one code. I think I might just bite the bullet and get a OE Denso then continue down the flow chart. I’m really curious to see how fuel pressure and other systems are behaving. I just got stuck on this resistance issue, started breaking into a beautiful wiring harness and getting overwhelmed. Wanting to fix the resistance issue I just have no idea how. The wires quickly become lost in a massive bundle that’s really well packaged.
  5. Funny you guys say that, I just replaced it about a month ago with oreilly Denso. Can their product vary that much?
  6. Mods list below.. so I was cruising at about 40 in fifth gear when the check engine light came on. Pulled over immediately and checked it to find a PO2096 thrown. I have done an extensive amount of research and found a bunch of people going down the route of replacing sensors and such with no Avail. I figured before I go the same path I should go into the manual and start down the flow chart Subaru has provided. At step 5 (I believe), they had me check pin 8 and 9 on one of the connectors at the ecm to ground...pin 9 was below the specs at 1milliohm. The suggestion was the fix the ground fault short in the harness between the ecm and front O2 sensor. I am looking at the harness between the two and it looks flawless. I started with some simple connection areas that may have been suspect but they are so clean and nothing has been disturbed. I really don’t want to start breaking into this wiring harness if nothing is wrong with it. My questions are, is there something else that could be causing this? A poor connection inside the front O2, something in the ecm. Where might I even start looking for this ground fault? Should I assume it’s good and move to the next step? My resistance is in the killiohms on either pin 8 or 9. Cant quite remember but one is within spec. If someone with time could measure theirs? I don’t expect it but worth a shot. I have also been experiencing fluctuations in a/f ratio at idle so maybe I’m on to something. Maybe some suggestions on where to start looking. I’m just rambling at this point. Thanks in advance. - 7500 on engine build -year 2008 -6 Speed manual -COBB Top Feed 1050x Fuel Injectors -Stock Rebuilt EJ255 Spec B w/ race bearings -11mm oil pump with Stock heads by Outfront Motorsports -Custom turbo upgrade VF52 20g PNP and Powder coated with upgraded 1bar/14psi wastegate by SoCal porting -Modified stock TGV Deletes PNP by SoCal Porting -Process West Vert Mount TMIC -Mach 2 Recirculating valve - Invidia Big Tube Header - INV -HS05SW1HDP - Invidia Downpipe Catted Divorced Wastegate - INV HS08SW1DOC -Invidia Q300 Catback Exhaust INV HS05SL1GT3 -Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator - MIS MMRAD-STI-08 -Mishimoto Radiator Hose Kit Black Subaru MIS MMHOSE-STI-08BK COBB -Top Feed 1050x Fuel Injectors (312150) -COBB Silicone Turbo Inlet (724400-BK) -COBB SF intake system (724100) -COBB SF Airbox (724150) -COBB 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) (715750) -AEM High Flow Fuel Pump (315450) -Grimspeed Phenolic spacers 8mm NGK spark plugs GK-2309 -Stock Sti Cluch and Flywheel, -Air Pump Delete
  7. Alright final update just to close a thread. Took it to Dave at Cryotune and we sorted things out. It actually turned out to be in the tune. And he really opened this thing up a bit as well. Turns out the previous tuner was on speed density which I guess was a bit weird. Some other odd things Dave mentioned but didn’t make sense to me. Thanks for the recommendation I didn’t realize he was so popular on this site. Now I know why.
  8. It’s one solid piece which actually really sucks but whatever. At this point I think I’m going to pay someone to smoke test the vac, boost and exhaust. I’ll let you all know the outcome.
  9. Good point there I’ll log that. I didn’t want to stray too far away from an AP tuner but may if it’s worth it. What’s their price by chance? Stupid question but what is the collector? Basically where it connects to the turbo? It’s a single piece of piping from the manifold to the turbo.
  10. Update. Been out of town. So I replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets and on one of them had black staining all the way through it. The other one failed the soap and water test I think. Hard to tell if it was boiling or building bubbles. Haven’t had time to get a normalized mpg but it is up to 20mpg without changing driving habits or routes. Matches super close to what the digital mpg states. So I’m not concerned about that anymore. I think the car is running much better now. I’m still getting wierd fluctuations in rpm only when I hold the accelerator between 1000 to 1700 rpm and on warm up. Never at warm idle though. Also, it’s been warming up and at the hottest part of the day I parked the car for about 20mins after being fully warmed up. When I went to start it again, it acted like it didn’t want to run for about 5 seconds before smoothing out. From my research I found that the evap purge solenoid May be suspect but I just replaced it with an oem one because it was the cause of a major vac leak. Im thinking maybe I crossed the vac lines. It should be arrow pointing in the direction of vacuum right? Other people said it’s super common and to get used to it. Not gonna happen. Another suggestion was the tune may be a little wonky. Other people said injectors as big as mine can cause low rpm stuff and gave an analogy of using a sledgehammer to nail a tac. I’m kind of leaning in the direction that I need a retune because everything I just fixed could have been present at the initial tune. Any input on this? Could a bad tune cause those rpm fluctuations and rough hot start? Pretty sure I have found everything it could be maybe not though. On my next couple days off I’m thinking about just rebuilding the entire vacuum system to be 100%. Recap of things done: Cleaned MAF Replaced front and rear O2 sensors Pressurized system to 10psi and found all vac leaks Replaced exhaust manifold gaskets Replaced evap purge solenoid Reflased tune Datalogs in first couple of posts for reference Thanks for all the help so far everyone!
  11. Alright so today I pressurized the entire system to about 10psi. I found another vacuum leak. Before I fixed it the vacuum was -7.55 now it’s at -8psi (-16.2 inHg). Is this about what it should be in Denver? No fix yet though.
  12. Ok that is a task in Colorado where I live but I agree, the norm needs to be done. By donut gasket do you mean intake manifold gaskets? If so, I have soaked them in flammable liquid.. only found one vac leak this way. I know the donut gaskets are a common one but this engine has 7500 miles on it. Not only is it obvious but I have paperwork to back it up. Still not a guarantee but I’m convicted. I’m not ruling it out just putting it on a back burner. The A/F passes but did you look at the corrections? Them puppies out this world. At least from the research I’ve done it throws a red flag that something is in need of attention.
  13. I believe I reset the ecm. Maybe not. should I disconnect the battery for 10+ mins for that? also, I did a data log in the rpm range that I have been experiencing issues (not the way the COBB video recommends) and did some deeper research. I found my AF corrections are way out of wack in this range. Cobb says... "Negative corrections beyond 8% mean the ECU is pulling lots of fuel. This would most likely be due to a leak in the intake tract. Other potential issues could be a bad MAF sensor, failing o2 sensor, or you may have a map flashed that is not designed for your intake or injectors." So deeper down the rabbit hole I go. Things I did today in addition to the O2 sensor were clean the PCV and inspect the throttle body (clean as a whistle). check out the latest and greatest datalog.. datalog20.csv
  14. Alright I replaced the front O2 sensor and it did not really fix the issue. I have uploaded another datalog with the AFR this time.datalog19.csv
  15. Alright so I’ve started to see some of the issues with this car after driving it more and it could all be pointing to the same issue. So when I hold the throttle steady, it fluctuates from like 1700-2000 rpm. Then when I let off, sometimes it almost stalls then recovers. From the research I’ve done, it points to vacuum leaks. I did find one and it didn’t really fixing the issue. I’ve also reflashed my tune and tried bumping the idle up a bit. I’ve also cleaned the maf. None of that seemed to do anything. I’ve kind of rulled out vacuum leaks but who really knows. I picked up a denso O2 sensor. That’s OEM brand right? I’ll let you guys know if it helps. Any suggestions before I dive into it tomorrow.
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