willisdaye

Yeah my bad for not closing this out. Appreciate the offers but I'm all good now. Loving the konis so far. I've heard they last the longest if you don't set the damping to the upper or lower limit. I have them around the middle and am satisfied thus far.

Update for OB XT/3.0R owners looking to have the STi rack and keep VDS: I still have not installed the new rack since I have higher priority projects on this car (and bikes ). That list is finally dwindling however, so I did more digging on this and found this really good writeup on steering angle scaling in the Forester forum. It's a comprehensive guide and a pretty straightforward project, assuming you've messed with arduino before. The github code is linked in the guide, and the only change it needs for use on an OB/LGT is to update the steering ratio. In my case since I already have an arduino on board, I'll just have to rehash my existing boost monitoring code to add SAS scaling, and add the CAN-BUS shields. Other than that, it'll probably be sometime next year that I do this upgrade, so if someone beats me to it, let us know how it goes! If that link is broken DM me and I can send the .pdf and .ino files

I'm planning on installing Koni dampers and Rallitek springs on my 08 OBXT, and need OEM or KYB strut bodies off a LGT to do cut-a-strut with. Any condition is fine except rusty, since I will just be using the bodies / hardware. Didn't want to have to buy new ones, if someones got a set lying around within around 60mi of Portland metro area hit me up

Yeah I couldn't get anything from poking at it. Unless someone has a horror story about a defect like this I'm gonna install them. On another note, what is this bracket for? Doesn't exist on my NA LCAs and I couldn't find info on it. There's a little plastic bit on it that looks sorta like a sway bar link. It's broken in half. This is only on the driver side LCA.

Since my ball joints and inner LCA bushings are going, I thought I would put in some aluminum LCAs while I'm at it. I found a set of used JDM LCAs for a good price and was cleaning them up today before I press in new bushings and slap em on. I noticed a defect of sorts near the rear bushing. What do people think of this crack? Should I try to get a new one or does this just look like a surface level defect like scaling/porosity from the casting process? I will say that it looks a bit worse in the pictures than it does in person. I suppose I could weld over it if it comes to that. It'd be a shame if I need to dump it, it took a while to get them that shiny

I'm thinking about lumping a rack swap in with other suspension upgrades I'm doing soon on my OBXT, and am also interested in not having to gut VDC. I already have an Arduino mounted near the steering column that controls my diy boost gauge, so it seems like this could be a two birds one stone situation. I think it would be as simple as using the map() function to scale the sensor signal to the original range, and using a DAC shield to output the signal to the VDS module. If I end up pulling the trigger on the STi rack, I will definitely take a stab at this and post my updates here.

The turbo has VF-46 engraved on the compressor housing. I can put a picture up this afternoon so you can see but I believe it is stock. I was hoping I wouldn't have to drop the DP again The threads I read about the Invidia DP divider noted that they only had to take off a small amount of material to alleviate the issue. I really knocked the thing down. Plus, I was seeing this overboosting with the previous downpipe too, which was a bellmouth and shouldn't have caused interferance. Before I drop the DP again, can anyone confirm that the max opening angle in the picture I sent looks reasonable? In the meantime I think I need to get a new actuator. Consensus seems that Kinugawa is a good choice?

I poked around the wastegate today and I think I'm narrowing it down. The shorter hoses in the 'T' section are actually in pretty good shape, and there's a pill in there. With the actuator arm unhooked, the wastegate moves freely, with a 70 or so degree range. (pic below) You said it was supposed to be 90? The bigger piece of evidence I found is the actuation pressure. It seems to start moving between 5 and 10psi, but it maxes out at about 20, and when the arm is attached and it hist 20 it doesn't open as much as when it's detached and I open it by hand. My pressure gauge was pretty cheap though so I'll benchmark it when I get the chance. Overall though, It's also kind of looking like the actuator arm is just too short; It has no slack when the arm is attached, as I had to pull it and compress the spring a good bit just to get it back on. Could this actuator be aftermarket / incorrect / busted? It's my understanding that they don't go bad very often. I've already found and fixed other questionable modifications by the PO so I'd almost be inclined to say they installed this shorter actuator in a dangerous attempt at increasing boost. I'm not well versed with what the stock hardware looks like on this car so someone should chime in.

So far I've checked the BCS and hoses. I bench tested the BCS itself and it seems to work well. some of the hoses seem worn, and might not seal well, so I'll replace / ziptie them. I'll check the wastegate soon. The actuator arm unfortunately does not look adjustable, pic below.

2008 OBXT Limited, 174k miles, 3k on the engine. All stock (VF46 turbo) except for: * Invidia catted divorced WG DP * Invidia up-pipe * Invidia Q300 catback * DW65C fuel pump * Open source protune I just had the tune done after installing these parts, and I think I'm having an overboosting condition. The tuner said it would hit 19-20psi (5 over target) and that WGDC was off. He couldn't get that to change with the tune, and said that it's probably mechanical. He said since I have a divorced wastegate downpipe, I should make sure the divider isn't obstructing the flapper. I saw a small clean spot on the divider when I dropped the DP, so I knocked it down by about 1/8" overall, and about 1/4" around where the contact occurred. I took a log afterwards and saw that it's still hitting 5psi over target. People on the forum seem to stay below 18 on this hardware, so I don't want to hit 19-21 every time I floor it. Interestingly, i noticed a similar overboost condition on an older log I took before modding and tuning. This leads me to believe I should just check/clean BCS, wastegate actuator, and associated hoses. I'll put both romraider logs below if anyone wants to take a look. Log_before: 3rd gear WOT, crappy ebay exhaust and crappy open source tune by previous owner. Log_after: 3rd gear WOT, mods listed above, ground down wastegate divider, open source protune. Log_Before.csv Log_After.csv

Stock VF46, actuator arm doesn't look adjustable

Alright so the boost oscillation issue was finally solved after tuning. My tuner open source tuned it, it made 250whp up on the dyno, and it feels really smooth now, at all throttle levels. However, he said that it's overboosting a bit, and it sounds like it's mechanical since he wasn't able to fix it in the tune. I think I'm going to start a new thread for this since the original issue has been solved. I'll link it once it's up.

Yeah the DW came with a new fuel sock. The filter is the large white plastic part that the pump attaches to. Parts store had just closed when I did the replacement so I got impatient and kept the old one since I needed to drive today. All in all I didn't think it was that much of a hassle to do so I'll do it later if needed. I'll also check / have the tuner check the fuel pressure to make sure it's within expected.

Halfway through the pump install, and am now debating whether or not to replace the fuel filter while I have everything taken apart. Did any of you guys take care of that when you did the pump? It's at 170k and I'm not sure if it's ever been done. For what it's worth, the current one looks pretty clean.

A quick search and it looks DW and AEM are pretty similar in price, DW a tad more. My guy said the AEM one is stronger and might be too much for the stock regulator in some cases. Given I don't plan on upgrading anything else I think I'll stick with the DW. I also already ordered it, which is more justification to just roll with it I guess if it craps out on me I'll have an excuse to get the AEM and go all out with a bigger turbo