KennyMcRae

The pin won’t go back into the hole more than a mm? What’s the hole look like? Did you remove the boot? If the pin isn’t going in, the problem is likely the hole is full gunk or rust. Can you take a pic of the hole you’re trying to put the pin in?

Ya, I think you’re right. It’s just odd because normally a bad TOB would make noise when the clutch pedal is released as well as being more a loud rolling noise with maybe some grinding. This is one of two cars, so I’m going to pull it apart and see what’s actually busted before ordering a ton of parts. I’m worried that sleeve is spinning and has gaulled up the Alum case snout. Im expecting to have to do a clutch kit and sleeve/tob kit. But I also have a driveline vibration under acceleration, which I suspect is a bad U joint. Good time to inspect and replace that.

Here’s a video IMG_2921.mov

About 2 weeks ago I started hearing some noise when I would press the clutch while at a stand still. When I started rolling, it would go away. It goes away when the clutch is released. Theres a sticker on the strut tower saying the car has had the PDM TSK1 sleeve and TOB retrofit. But I have no idea when it was done. Im worried the sleeve may have come loose and is now spinning with the TOB or the TOB has just simply began to fail. Ive owner this generation of chassis several times over the last decade and I’ve never heard a noise like this. It has a metallic squeak to it, too. I think I have to buy a clutch kit as well as another sleeve/TOB kit incase everything is mangled in there. Has anyone had a similar noise or issue with the sleeved snout? I’ll try to post a video later today of the sound. It’s a 1998 legacy L with a 2.2. Thank you

Well, the heater control lights are all dead and the previous own said he had to replace the cluster. The rear defrost switch bulb works on my other 98 legacy. I picked up a few relays for the fans and that fixed the original main fan issue. I also got rear defrost and cruise switches. Also snatched up a set of pleated leather door card inserts. Pick n pull is great.

That’s the next step, I ordered the Xtool Bluetooth scanner so I can see live data. However, I did pull the relay for that fan from the fuse panel under the dash and the relay has a closed circuit all the time. Popped the cover off and it looks melted together on that contact. I put the sub fan relay in place of the fried one and the fan did not turn on. So I ordered a new relay. The rear defrost works, the bulb is just blown. I’m guessing from when the jumper cables got reversed. Im pretty sure the cruise control module is dead. I located enough PDF files of the FSM to print out all the wiring diagrams and most of the test procedures. Thank you for replying.

Hey guys, picked up a ‘98 legacy L wagon the other day. 2.2 5mt. Upon noticing the rear defrost and cruise buttons weren’t lighting up, I checked fuses. Cruise fuse was popped. But the rear defrost wasn’t. I open up the fuse panel under the hood and notice at some point, the fuseable link had gotten REALLY hot. It looked new, so I assume it was replaced. But there’s burn marks on the inside of the cover. The harness coming off it looks fine and nothing else looks fried. However, I did notice when I was checking fuses under the dash that the Main Fan fuse was just missing. So I put a 20a in and the passenger side cooling fan kicked on and won’t shut off. Car isn’t hot. Everything is pointing towards the two wire coolant temp sensor. My thought is that when that short happened (guessing some idiot put jumper cables on backwards) that it may have melted the contact inside the sensor and is telling the ecu the engine hot. Going to check the sensor tomorrow morning. Anyone have any ideas about the rear defrost and cruise not working? The AC won’t kick on either (probably related to CTS) Anyone have a link to a FSM? I’d be willing to buy an actual FSM as I tend to buy a lot of these 2nd gen cars. I also have a 1998 Brighton 5mt. I also noticed a couple wires going nowhere near the back of the engine on top. thank you

Hello! It’s been a minute since I’ve been on here because my ‘98 Brighton wagon is so reliable. I work in an industry that requires my transporting vehicle be able to lock all the doors remotely and from within the vehicle. Obviously an alarm system would accompany this. My question to you all, is it a better idea to install the “Code alarm” system that came factory in other trims or to go totally aftermarket and install my own lock actuators and computer? I dont really need much more than that to be compliant. I have to drive through multiple mountain passes and many national forest roads with no cell coverage. I’m putting a JDM NA ej20 (235k mile slight rod knock currently) in it and upgrading the brakes. Honestly, I trust these cars more than most and know them like the back of my hand. Please help me keep another old lego in good service to an industry many of you likely partake in.

Figured out I have an intermittent CEL for the knock sensor. Also that I probably need new plugs and wires. ( rainy day)