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armypilot

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  • Location
    Brenham, Texas
  • Car
    06 GT Ltd Sedan, 05 FXT, 04 FXT

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  1. Came with full sway bar kit, but I had replaced front links a few months ago, so I'm selling. Bag is opened but it was never more than handled. $70 shipped. Payments via paypal or Zelle - contact me for instructions
  2. I just bought a Odyssey AGM battery PC680 and Mele Design battery box (not installed yet). You can mount that battery box in your trunk or wherever you can squeeze it - its small and quality is top notch!. You can also mount TWO of the Odyssey batteries in the same place you can mount the stock "wet" battery because they are so small. I got my setup from Mele Designs
  3. FS: Texas - Whiteline Front Sway Bushings These Whiteline bushings are for the FRONT STOCK 20mm sway bars. Sorry, not cleaned for photo shoot. These have exactly 6,746 miles on them. I got a Whiteline F&R Sway Bar kit for Christmas so these no longer work in my car. Selling for $15 shipped via USPS first class: Paypal, Zelle ******SOLD TO FABREZE MEE********
  4. I'll answer my own question I have an 06 Sedan Sedan with 5EAT, so I will need to order: Bilstein HD struts aka B6 (PN: VE3-B830 H0, VE3-B831 H0, BE5-B832) STi Pinks for BP AT (Front PN: ST 2033021010, Rear PN: ST2038021010 --or-- Rear PN: 2038021010 for saggy butt-lift)
  5. On an 06 GT Ltd Sedan 5EAT: Yes, I've read about the various setups until my eyes are crossed. Seems to be mostly about the JDM or US Spec B Bilsteins (non-HD's). I am wanting Bilstein HD's and Pinks that won't lower my car too much (lip is about to be installed), dropping as evenly as possible, but not leaving the saggy butt My understanding thus far and correct of I am wrong: -The Bilstein B6 HD's are similar to the JDM GT-B so they better handle the stiffer spec B pinks very well. -I have 5EAT, so I'm heavier up front like the 6MT, so...... I am thinking the best Pinks combo with HD struts would be: Front -P/N: ST2033021010 (GT-B sedan Auto) Rear - P/N: ST2038021020 (GT-B wagon springs for saggy butt) Anyone have input on this combo for this car or a setup like this? Not looking to cross into coilovers. Opinions?
  6. My overboost issue was caused by a slightly misaligned wastegate arm - wouldn't open. I have 104k on my car, so I just replaced the stock boost solenoid and cleaned out all of the plumbing. I cut my WG arm, threaded it and connected with a coupling nut. Adjusted and no more overboost. Here are the steps I used until I realized it was the WG arm (GoPros are the BEST!) ---taken from subaruidiots.com--- 1.) Decat + High flow induction – Cure: Reduction of the solenoid duty cycle or alteration of restrictor size will help return boost output to its normal level. 2.) Split, poor fitting, or disconnected pipes – Cure: Replace or refit pipes, the pipes that will cause this issue are between the wastegate actuator, solenoid, and the turbo. Including up to the restrictor on the return pipe of the 3 port solenoid. 3.) Manual Boost Controller – Electronic Boost Controller set too high – Cure: Don’t be so greedy and back the boost duty/adjuster off to a safe level. 4.) Restrictor Pill not fitted / size incorrect – Cure: Ensure restrictor pill is fitted (3 port) if so on a 3 port reduce the restrictor size and on the 2 port increase the restrictor size to reduce the boost to a safe level. 5.) Clogged 3-port solenoid: It is possible that the flow of air through the 3-port solenoid could be restricted between the turbo outlet port and the wastegate actuator port if the solenoid is very dirty (usually oil vapor from the intake system), this allows the wastegate to remain clamped shut longer than it should be causing a potential overboost situation. Cure: Clean with carb or clutch/brake cleaner. 6.)Loss of solenoid funcation: Although this is not bverboost it shows itself with very simmilar symptoms, its an interesting scenario. It is possible for the solenoid to fail or even stick shut while under boost. This will result in a rapid reduction of boost pressure to wastegate pressure approx 0.5 BAR. So if you were running at full boost 1.0 BAR for example and the solenoid was to fail shut it would feel just like overboost as the wastegate rapidly opens due to the solenoid blocking off the spill from the wastegate. Cure: Either clean the solenoid with carb or clutch+brake cleaner or replace the solenoid.
  7. He *might see* the 90's a few time a year up in the northern hills. I grew up in Wallingford CT and mid-high 80's with stifling humidity is CT summer norms. I moved to Texas in '11 (with my purchased-new 06 GT) and upper 90's to low 100's are the new norm here ...car reaches 130's if unshaded in direct sun!!!! Next Subie will NOT be black! My red FXT only gets into the 120's at its worst...even with the greenhouse-sized windows and moonroof.
  8. I had a sound like a taser gun ticking loud and sharply at above 4k rpm and no boost. Chased it down to find bad cracks in my wastegate segment of the hot side . Total cost was $80 for a new genuine IHI turbine half plus time
  9. This was exactly what happened to me, except they apparently did not use the "special tool" and busted up more parts...which were replaced free. They said it cracked apart when they tried to remove it...along with them breaking the central vent assembly around my navi as well.
  10. I just had my 06 LGT in for the airbag recall. It had the sticky dash problem. The dealer honored it and replaced it for free. They even broke my center heating vent trim...so I got a new one of those too. ...too bad it took them 2 months to find my underboost problem in the LGT. I was doing a CHRA replacement on my 05 FXT and my LGT turbo crapped the bed. So I sent the LGT into the dealer to get it fixed ASAP since the FXT was down (figured it would only take a day or two for the stealership to fix it). Nope, the FXT was finished a week later (due to waiting for parts to arrive) and my LGT had to wait for NINE WEEKS at the stealership to get an official diagnosis. I think this is why the replaced the dash parts so quickly and w/o protest. Got a $500 service credit from SOA too! Anyway...if you got a sticky dash, go talk to the dealer. I don't know if it made a difference, but my 06 only has 101,835 miles
  11. Here's a thought for those with 5EAT like me. I was noticing that on the steering wheel, on the side opposite of the shifting controls, there is an indentation that feels silimar in shape to the front shifting button piece. I literally just thought of this while reading this topic, but what about moving the shifting buttons to the backside of the wheel and installing the radio controls on the front? Ovbiously, this will require a bit of fab work to do so, but it might just allow us 5EAT guys to have the best of both worlds. When it stops raining, I'm going to chech this out a bit more...
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