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tema

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    Finland
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    OB XT -05

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  1. Sorry for "glass"-definition. Split case is definitely more appropriate, but I do think that it must be made clear 6MT split vs. STI as those two are _totally_ different transmissions. I had 5MT before and some people called it "glass-box/transmission". I thought that it was exaggeration as there were lot of 5MTs with decent amount of power. Honestly 5MT is not a bad box, but it's much more likely to break comparing to STI-6MT. My 5MT lost bolt in front diff which created a hole in casing. I don't know for sure the history of the car, but it was never "tuned" so we're talking standard power, but possibly abusing driving. Why I'm so adamant to highlight the difference to STI-box is that the 6MT from STI actually IS really one of the really strong transmissions out there regardless of the brand of the vehicle. By FAR the biggest improvement in my car has been STI-6MT with diff locks (Suretrac+visco+Suretrac). On asphalt this is not that much of a difference at all, but now winter time it's difficult to overemphasize the difference. Sugar coating for all this is the feel of the shifter in STI 6MT - you just WANT to change the gears as it's so addictive and transmission also feels like it will hold. Coming into corner on snow or ice (or gravel) - flick the clutch and power slide through. Just simply beautiful and an absolute joy to drive 5MT with centre+rear visco was nothing like this at all.
  2. I suggest to open a new thread for MT5/MT6 NON-STI gearboxes. This thread is really informative, but really lengthy as well. Would serve people better if not to confuse glass-6MTs with STI-related ones.
  3. I have now about three years and 40 000km since swap Trans should have ca. 160000km = 100k miles on it on total Works very well albeit some "whine" from trans. According to some Youtube videos STI-6-speed do make some noise normally but not totally sure of this. Noise is more present on certain (low) rpms and seem to be less on higher gears. How are your transmissions noise wise comparing to 5MT?
  4. Correct! I have FSTI 2007 as above
  5. Front and Rear LSD are "must have". Not just fancy stuff but actually transform car totally! Hence Spec B transmission doesn't make sense (to me and many others) Reading how many ran DCCD in open position pushed me to to FSTI instead of considering (costly) build of DCCD trans in to tall gear option.
  6. Forester STI remains a good option for tall gears. No DCCD but centre visco could be swapped out for torsen if that's an issue
  7. I had no issues to fit FSTi 6-speed with parts mentioned above. I didn't check numbers but I got my PNs from this thread which I mostly double checked. I Recommend to renew axle seals in gearbox too. Clutch hose I didn't change but I got complete assembly of slave cylinder together with transmission. Seriously should consider STi-clutch too if you're above standard power. Bigger standard clutch was one strong argument for 6-speed and I'm extremely happy with it. 5-speed clutch is a bit so-so while STi-clutch can take some serious torque and is supposed to have good longevity. Only real problems I had with was aligning new clutch without tool. I ended up cutting piece of clutch shaft from old damaged gearbox to use as alignment tool.
  8. If I recall correctly: - Torx head on DMFW because no space around bolt head for hex-bolt - HEX-head bolt on SMFW because Torx-head is too high and would interfere with pressure plate?
  9. I read comments on this and that was the reason I bought driveshaft which was most convenient to get (Legacy). Only once I was installing it I realized how badly it misaligns. Bearing carrier mounting height is totally different. I'm a marine engineer by profession and I have come across through the years number of incorrect installations that either; "work" or "worked before". I didn't want to take a risk and issue was sorted out by longer bolts and spacers. Now aligned like factory design it. Having an extreme misalignment is definitely not good. I know some LGT/OBXT which had to have original driveshaft replaced due to bearing failure. If you were lucky with this it doesn't matter but for anyone planning installation I don't recommend increasing chances of things breaking.
  10. I have 2007 JDM STI Forester gearbox. 2004 STI drive shafts (5x100) at rear coupled to Hyundai Elantra CV-joints. Highly recommended. Read my posts and ask if anything unclear. 4EAT prop shaft is ok, but must be OB to OB, or LGT to LGT I have LGT shaft in OB and it's doable but needs spacers and longer bolts. No point to do it.
  11. Regarding question if 6MT swap was worth it? Absolutely yes! I originally didn't want to do it as it's a lot of money and 5MT should have been fine for (spirited) daily driver. Due to problems with 5MT and stronger clutches on them I finally decided to put stop for that. To get strong stock clutch and transmission that should have no reliability issues. Diff locks and taller gearing were very tempting too. What I didn't know was how ridiculously better and more engaging the gear shift is! It's such a joy that it's nice to even sit in car and shift while engine is stopped Other aspect I seriously underestimated is effect from proper diff locks. I've driven a lot of different, even somewhat sporty 4wd cars but never with proper locks in all diffs. I have suretrac front and rear. Centre diff is only visco (JDM Forester STI set up) but still great. Tarmac capability is enhanced but on snow and ice it's just totally different car! Suddenly driver feels so much more skilled Absolutely a blast on loose surface. Rear diff makes behavior predictable and front diff ensures that car pulls to direction streering is pointed. I'd like to have DCCD but I think it's more marginal and I desired tall gearing on 6th more for highway use. I drive primarily on highway and I've been really happy about it.
  12. Other guys beat me but I echo them: Stay stock STI clutch! What I read and understood was that tuned stock (VF52) STI turbo on E85 is totally fine. This is already a lot of torque so with sensible driving limit should be high up. Anyway I strongly suggest first go stock and take a small risk that it won't work Doing opposite and going "race" is very likely going to be pain in the neck on DD. Failed clutch is not like some other component that is likely take other parts once it goes, so no reason to "play safe".
  13. Unless _crazy_ power/usage go with new STI OEM Having had "performance" clutch in DD I'm bloody happy to have "normal" clutch again.
  14. If you need the ride height go with BTS5056 or BTS5058 Either way is great for DD and all kinds of roads. It's not a track set-up in anyway but I'm very happy to have one. Only real drawback is the price. Considering effort you've put into the car this shouldn't be a real concern. For non-track use there is no need to drop the car to LGT height.
  15. I have visco centre diff and Suretrac front and rear. Haven't done any heavy tarmac on this combination. On snow and ice I can pretty comfortably argue that it's the mechanical front (and rear) that makes the biggest difference. Some people on forum who track race seem to indicate to same direction. Sure there are situations where DCCD will shine, but previous post seemed to claim too much for DCCD.
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