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incoming81s

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About incoming81s

  • Birthday 04/03/1976

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  • Location
    SoCal
  • Car
    12' Legacy
  • Interests
    Family, Hunting
  • Occupation
    Corrections

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  1. I very briefly read an interesting procedure on how to tighten the axle nuts to spec. I think it involved putting the wheels back on, snugging them up and lowering the car to the ground. After that is done THEN tighten the axle nuts up to 162+ Ft Lb’s. Anyone read/know different? FYI, the wheel hub assembly (although a pain in the ass) came off much easier than I anticipated with a heavy hammer.
  2. I borrowed a Milwaukee ¾” impact from work. Took the axle nuts off in 20 seconds of me going easy on it. After dropping the lower joint (forget the name) the axle dropped out pretty easy. Routed, suspended and hung up the brake and ABS lines. My only real battle was getting the wheel hub assembly busted/broke off (again, don’t know the technical name for it). After some 350 grit work, then new assembly popped right in. I torqued everything to spec but have yet to get the hub nuts tightened up.
  3. TIMKEN seems to be reasonably priced at $106 each for the front(s). RoackAuto, Parts Geek and Car ID are all out of axle hub nuts. Local Subaru dealership had one in stock. Anyone have an online vendor they recommend or should I just go with Ebay?
  4. Also, how in the hell does one get the axle nut off? Apparently King Kong was hired to tap in the dent (divet) that keeps the axle nut in place. Suggestions?
  5. I’m seeing both those brands on RockAuto very similarly priced. Does anyone know if either of those are still manufactured in the US? One can hope but I learned to stop holding my breath on that stuff.
  6. I hate to replace just one but its so dang cold outside. Any recommendations on a brand comparable to OEM? If the general consensus is using OEM I don't mind the $$ difference. I ride the Subi pretty hard and have a 30 mile commute with out getting above 40 mph because of the mountain road. She's taken care of me pretty well over the years and I'd like to drive past the wheels falling off if possible.
  7. AhhhhHHHHH, I can't bitch to much since I'm at 225K miles with no major issues (bought the car in 2017 with 80K miles). So, 5-6 weeks ago I though I could hear a lower pitched humming noise coming from the right side of the vehicle. It was/is most noticeable when I'm off the throttle at 40-50 mph and slowing down. After a few more days of this I was convinced I could almost feel the vibration through the steering wheel/floorboards of the car. I parked it for a few weeks and drove my backup until I had time to lift my Subi and poke around. Hopefully the attached video plays so you can get an idea of the noise when the wheel assembly is manipulated. At the very beginning of the video I just roll the wheel forward an backward so you can hear the transaxle clicking a bit as it bumps against gears to drive forward etc. The last ⅔ of the video is of me grabbing the wheel and rocking it from top to bottom. The clunk/clink sounds to me like a bearing on its way out to pasture, same for when I rock the wheel from left to right (at an angle). Ive only replaced 2-3 wheel bearings in 25 years so I'm not 100% on target with experience. Not included in the video due to restrictions on upload size is me spinning each tire with the car off the ground. All tires spin ok except for the rear passenger side. It stops spinning nearly instantly (less than one full revolution after it's left alone). The other 3 wheel assembly's (to include the front right which I suspect is going bad) spin at least 2-2.5 rotations before rolling to a stop. Yes, I know this is different than the wheel assembly I described as my initial/above problem. Long winded as it may be, if the video works please give me your opinion/recommendations. I have a fair amount of tools, slightly above novice experience on imports and I hate paying people to do sh*t I should be able to do myself. Thanks for time and consideration,,, IMG_1102.mov
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