blindguy74

I scheduled to have the timing belt/water pump done.. I know I can do it myself but between kids..other hobbies/interests/cars...stimulus coming I said screw it a shop can do it.

I finally did this..it's seriously been over a year and a half of a little smoking upon start up on passenger side here and there. Cars been down 11 days but that's because I have a back up and had the time..and work/schedule..family..lack of parts etc... I ended up ordering plugs off Amazon after the stealership sold me NA ones...they were $51 from the dealership..the correct NGK from Amazon primer were $44. I needed the bigger hose that connects to the valve cover after I cut it off also and the stealership didn't have that either...it was like $45ish off eBay from a subaru parts house. I hope it's fixed...hopefully firing it up later tonight or tomorrow.. I learned a lot and am glad for all the write ups and youtube videos etc.

Like someone else said don't you have to take out your interior headliner and remove the nuts of the through the roof bolts that attach? Welcome to Legacy Wagon Ownership.. Where no one makes aftermarket crossbars anymore and if they did to begin with they were $$$$. Our rails suck honestly. Outback rails all day long you can get aftermarket cross bars because of the raised from the roof design..the gap..etc.. At least that's what I've seen. I've considered if you were to remove our stockers and replace with outback ones and make some sort of spacer for our stock rails to raise them so aftermarket crossbars would work. You can also get a drill..maybe a dremel..possibly a grinder and goto town and straight redneck it.

What would happen with an 18x8 +35, running probably a 225/40/18 on an 05 Gt Wagon..stock height/everything..rub? Poke a little? I say probably on the size cuz wheels have no tires right now. Thanks

Update.. It works.. Had it get hot on the first short drive, came home asap let it cool down...googled more.. .properly burped it etc.. drove it...all good. Came home Next morning coolant on floor. Crap.. The drain plug needed tightened more than what the factory did..it was even marked with like a paint marker for some reason..as were the tranny cooler lines...that also needed tightening.. Now I'm just concerned about tranny fluid lost... I've checked it and it appears fine level wise...even after losing a little... I know I don't wanna new transmission so I'm checking it diligently. Subie isn't my primary mode of transportation so it's not like I've put many miles on it at all since all this has happened.

Replaced today...tightened everything (except plastic splash guard and exhaust heat shield) started and let run for 10 mins checking for leaks etc.....thennnn I googled burping etc... Gonna have to let it sit and cool down for a while and do all that before I drive it..I added about half a gallon of coolant. Wouldnt hurt to test drive it without that exhaust heat shield and the splash guard off would it? Like down the road etc..

After other issues (electrical, battery dying..bulbs out) my radiator sprung a tiny leak on the top and I got a replacement.. Main question is how much coolant is going to come out when I drain it...wondering what size pan or whatever to use to catch it in... Cars raised I. The front on Jack's and plastic splash guard is off...easier to just pull the lower hose and drain vs. the plug on the radiator ? Suggestion or help appreciated. Thanks

Forgive me if something similar has been posted but why does it? I'm speaking in regards to the reception... I have an 06 Chevy Cobalt ss/SC also and it's reception is I'd say much better ... Pics up more stations. .even the more common stations that are widely received in my area ..they sound clearer.. The Subaru it seems struggles with having them come in. The 6 disc changers sweet. No complaints there.. Anyone else with the same issues/complaints etc .? Also be great if it had a 3.5mm jack for devices but that's an issue across the board for older cars (06 cobalt also doesn't have one) I honestly haven't googled the issue yet..figure I'd rant a little .

Thanks for that ryans1000 I've been putting this off and an old and a slight update is nice. 2 yrs since the last post almost but oh well, every bit helps..

Link or pics of said PSA and Anderson lowers cracked at the buffer threads? I've heard of polymer lowers doing this and magnesium alloy lowers also...never heard of PSA or Anderson... And yes of course I own both...with thousands of rounds through...well the PSA (2 of them) Anderson is newer and just assembled so has seen a lot less. NM ...found a link on m4carbine.net.....maybe I'll throw the Anderson lower away...dammit I'm not a true operator