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check fuse #34 in the engine bay fuse box.

Here's a pic similar to the size I'm seeing, the specks at the bottom of the finger. And a pic I took looking in the block, you can see a few speaks floating. And it's very few, I've seen maybe 25 pieces total? It is very, very fine and I haven't seen anything bigger. I also seen a silver tinge to the oil in a kind of swirl. I've tried to take pics but cannot get anything that really represents what I've seen.

So what am looking at replacing since I found metal in the oil? I want to stress this is very, very fine pieces. But I shouldn't see any, right? I explained what I found to the guy at iag and he said it would be $7k in parts to replace what's necessary for a spun bearing (if that's where it came from) now this includes a stage 2 short block (~$3600) He said thats the only one he sells. The other $3400 would be parts contaminated from metal. That sounds excessive. So I'm trying to find a list of what components would need changed. I can go with a oem 2010 ej255 shortblock ($2k), oil cooler ($200), turbo?, oil pump what else am I missing?

I called iag performance. They guy there said that my engine (2010) is a cross or pre fa20. That no other engine will work for several reasons. Mentioned that my turbo wouldnt work. (Mines mounted in the bottom) I trust him. Alot of the info I find online isn't specific to the 2010 ej255. Most of its 4th Gen info. So, unless anyone else has 2 cents, looks like I'm back to the drawing board. I may be better off liken the above poster said and just out in a 5th Gen ej255 and not mess with the ej257. I know several of you have given advice and I need to reread the thread to make sure I haven't forgotten something someone has said. Also, I'm pretty sure I mentioned it above. But, when I decided to look into the block from the oil pan. The oil had some glitter to it. Very faint. Anyway for me to make certain that there is metal in it? I know that will require changing out more parts. And Id rather not if I don't have to. I know I can send it off for analysis, but the oil I drained is in a pan that was already dirty. So I don't want a bad sample. There is maybe a couple of ounces in the block still but I'm sure they require more than that.

Is the ej257 or ra block not worth it for the better parts?

So here is my current plan. Please correct me if I'm wrong anywhere. I'm going to have my local guy handle the heads. The problem here is he typically just adjusts the valve stem to correct clearance. What I've read today is that the head needs torqued to the block and timing belt installed to be accurate on valve lash. If that's the case, grinding the valve stem is out of the question. I did read where some have just ground the inside of the bucket where the stem seats on the underside of the bucket. Is that OK? Or am I better off having him measure valve clearance and order the buckets I need? I pulled the oil pan to look around and saw that my oil is a little glittery (tried uploading a pic, not sure why some load and some don't. Same camera and computer) Whether it really needs it or not Im pretty sure I'd just assume spend $2k and have a new shortblock. I believe I'm going to order an ej257 shortblock from subaru ($2k). Is there any issue with my heads on that engine? I've read and a user stated on this thread there is a change in compression but it's minimal. Or am I better off ordering the ej255 short block?

Possibly. But I told them several times I had the heads pulled. I got a quote from iag and they wanted $2k. That's with all new valves, guides, springs and retainers.

Full job, new valves and all that go with that I'm assuming. I kinda started not paying attention after that price. Not sure what you mean by "head gasket job" the engine is out of the car. My local guy said $400 to resurface, lash and adjust valves + parts like the valves. He said he doesn't mess with the buckets, he just grinds the valve tips to adjust clearance.

Just redo them to reinstall. I'm assuming make them flat, New valves, seating and whatever else involved with that. This is a subaru specialty shop, not a dealership. They have the machine work done somewhere else. I have a local machine shop very trusted been around for decades. Are these heads that special that he couldn't do the work? Or does it need to be some fancy shop with computerized equipment? I have no doubt he'd be substantially less. The specialty shop has good reviews, I think they've been around for 10 yrs or better, I have no doubt they do good work. Just looks like they are going to be out of my price range.

To get both heads redone is looking at around $3k. Was not expecting that.....

I guess whp? The stock # is 265bhp, I'm assuming that's crank hp? What's a realistic hp# for say $3k-$4k at the same time the car needs to reliable and a daily driver. And I know this next part is contradictary, but need to maintain some decent mpg. I've done a ton of reading, but I just get confused each time. So many different things to consider so they work together correctly.

Makes sense

I'm doing most of the work. I'm hesitant about doing the actual rebuild. I haven't rebuilt an engine since high school 20 hrs ago. But considering it. I do have other cars. 6, actually. This car is my wife's. I drive a 2003 jetta tdi I've been playing with lately. I have her in my 2007 volvo s40. Kid takes pick from what's left. Either a 2004 Volvo xc90 or 2004 Silverado 1/2 ton. Last one is a 66 Mustang, but it's not a daily driver. As far as time, I work a 7 on/7 off schedule. So 7 days off in a row is kinda nice to work on the fleet.

Alright, alright, alright.... Chip missing from the exhaust valve. Some said burnt valve. Is that what this is? I wouldn't think a burnt valve would be a chip missing. Also, where did the chip go and do I need to be concerned? Cylinder is fine, one of y'all said could be carbon and sure enough, that's what it is. From here. I could just repair the head and slap it back on. Honestly, I would like to beef it up a little and increase some hp. 325-350 range. What are yalls suggestions to achieve this as economical as possible? I have $7k set aside. Obviously, I don't want to spend all of it. Especially if I'm looking at just a rebuild. I don't care about name brands or looks. I only want what works well for the money. Also, clutch suggestions.

If you havent resolved this. I chased a similar issue for years. My center info gauge(the one that reads fuel stats) would keep getting fried, but it wouldnt blow the fuse. I replaced it twice and said to hell with it and left it in after the second time. After that I would periodically blow the fuse that ran my nav/radio/keyless entry. Which also ran the center info unit. Come to find out my bottom door sill lights were not installed and just sitting inside the door. And I guess every now and then would short out on the metal inside the door. Since installing those properly I havent fried the center info unit or the fuse, going on about a year. Anyway, something to consider. The fuse it blew was for the bcu. I think its #34 in the engine bay fuse box