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MTBwrench

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  • Location
    Illinois
  • Car
    '05 OBXT Stage 3.5/JMP52 268whp 255wtq
  • Interests
    Mountain biking!
  • Occupation
    ...Bike mechanic!

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  1. Those I have not. It's just not the demographic for around here. But, what I will say is I have demo'd a few of them, and they felt very well sorted. I'm a big fan of that suspension design, even though it's a little dated by today's standards, because it just works! Happy to help! I hate to see someone spend so much money on a bike that's in the weird realm of "really good parts" but also is just outdated to the point where something newer at 2/3 the price, with less nice components, will easily outperform it.
  2. - Non-Tapered head tube - Quick release axles - Crap Avid Elixir brakes - 2 x 9 drivetrain - Fox fork from the generation that brutally failed at CTD damping I wouldn't pay more than $500 for that. It's far past the point of upgrading, and really all of the things mentioned above, for a bike like a Stumpjumper, have vastly been improved upon.
  3. Takes one to know one! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  4. A quickie from the Chitown Subaru's meet today:
  5. I would pass unless that was closer to the 280€ mark... simply because they're end of life, and not in great condition. There's a high chance that in less than 10k miles the only thing worth keeping form that lot will be the springs. FWIW, I picked up B6's with pink springs, in excellent condition(no rust, 90k miles), for about 770€ shipped.
  6. Precisely why I bought the OZ's. Looks good, light(ish... they're not $600 wheels), I can run a 245/40/18 with a flat alignment, and I can make it around a track without slicing my sidewalls. Function> form. But you have 255s... I can't imagine how much lateral grip that would produce with the right setup. I can take one of those "cloverleaf" on ramps we have all over here in Chicago at almost 70 on a dry day with my current setup. I bet with 255's on a wider wheel(aka stiffer sidewalls) it would be super confidence inspiring. (Also that 40 offset looks super cool)
  7. Rhitter your wheels are the only ones I've seen that I like more than mine.
  8. There was no difference to me with a catted downpipe and a stock catback. A resonated 3" mid-pipe made hardly any difference at all too... but as soon as I changed the mufflers, dear Jesus was it loud. Since I have yet to find a good medium between the two, I have nameless deletes that are on there 90% of the time, and stock muffs get swapped back on for road trips.
  9. Sadly, your best bet is probably media blasting of some sort and a fresh coat of paint/powdercoat.
  10. Lowered OBXT on O.Z. wheels club? Wow, those actually look really nice! I was almost set on those but I'm not a fan of the back color with my red paint and I couldn't really find them in any other color with the offset I wanted. I was thinking about what you were saying about the rub, and I remembered something: A long while back(on here) in the wheels/tires forum sticky I read that when you go +1 on rim diameter, you should drop down 10 on profile. So=, essentially, a stock 225/55/17 would be replaced by a 225/45/18. Makes sense to me, as the 245/45/17 summer tires I had last year were ~1" smaller in diameter than my stockers. Now get some LGT brakes to fill in those wheels
  11. Correctamundo. Twice within a year, actually, because the person I trusted to build the first motor(due to my in confidence) didn't build it very well. Then I literally did it all over again, fully by myself, and it worked out fantastic. I should've did it that way the first time. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  12. One of my requirements for mods to this car is that they are capable of lasting through salty, wet, Midwest winters without being destructive. I also fully consider function over form (as we all know at this point ). So that narrows me down to wheels that look nice, but also will not rub under any circumstances, while also allowing me to retain a decent alignment and not perform any fender work whether it be rolling/pulling/cutting. I stuck with a 8" wheel because that's about as wide as I can go in the back without rubbing the inner fender liner during hard cornering and about as close to the strut as I am comfortable with in the front with a 245 tire, and stuck with a +48 offset as that allows me to keep my alignment flatter all around to make use of those 245's without rubbing the wheel arches and destroying my tires and creating bare metal spots to rust. Could I have gone with a +45 offset wheel and had "minimal" rub? yes. In fact, I'm sure for daily driving, I'd have none as it's only 3mm difference. But on the autocross track, issues would surely show. I am the type that goes crazy if something I built is not working properly, and rub falls under "isn't working properly" in my book. I know, I'm prissy about it. Thank you! I love it!
  13. Some glamour shots of my new wheel/tire setup, featuring typical midwest April weather. "Will it be 50° or 20° tomorrow? Nobody Knows!" O.Z. Superturismo LM 18x8 +45 with 245/40/18 tires.
  14. I'm still stuck in 10 speed land. My Stumpjumper is an XX 2x10 drivetrain with 42/28 up front and an 11-34 in back because Illinois is the epitome of flat, and my Instigator is a 1x10 with a 36t up front and 11-36 in the back because it spends most of its time trudging through the snow during the cold months. I'd only move to 11s or 12s for the gearing gain(which I don't need where I live), or the fact that there's simply no modern 10s drivetrains nowadays(whihc is very true).
  15. My brain immediately translated to "I have an unevenly distributed 37 minutes of free time to myself during the course of any given month"
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