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Dalee1104

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About Dalee1104

  • Birthday 11/04/1998

Personal Information

  • Location
    Naches Washington
  • Car
    08 spec b forged IAG build
  • Interests
    Working on my car, driving it
  • Occupation
    Certified subaru mechanic at a smaller shop specialize in subies and toyotas.

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  1. Yeah more and more evidence pointing towards just needing a new head in whole. What a pain I was hoping for an easy fix lol
  2. That's what I feared lol but it's what I was expecting as well. Appreciate it Sprank
  3. Hey all, so I'll preface by saying this isn't technically for a legacy but as I'm sure you guys are all aware the engines are shared amongst subarus. If not okay please remove this topic. Anywhos, the car in question is a 2001 subaru forester. The previous owner mentioned it has an engine swap from a 2003 subaru outback, intake manifold is still from the forester and whatnot. I'm pretty sure the engine is the same? I got this car for free in exchange for some work, the body is clean, interior is clean, but has a blown 5 speed and the engine has a cylinder 4 misfire. Runs okay, has a uneven idle, a little lumpy, but does still run and drive with no flashing of the engine light. The trans I already have squared away, picking one up this Saturday and going to stuff it in but the engine is more worrisome. I went ahead and did spark plugs and plug wires and when I pulled the cylinder 4 spark plug out the plug was huge. Turns out, it's a spark plug repair kit you can buy at autozone. The cylinder head had been stripped, and the repair kit taps new threads in and uses red loctite to secure a new fitting for the spark plug to thread into. I'm trying to get second opinions on what I should do. I was thinking about doing a leakdown/compression test to see if I'm losing pressure through that plug. Do any of you guys have any experience with these spark plug repair kits? Do they actually work? Am I most likely losing compression on that cylinder causing the misfire? Could the misfire be caused by something else like a coilpack (figured if that was bad id see misfires on all cylinders as its one unit, not coil on plug)? I'm leaning towards the only real way to tell is a compression test or leak down and I will likely chase that. I'm predicting I'm going to have to tear the engine down and replace the cylinder head. I was really hoping it would be something smaller but alas that's the way it goes, so I'm trying to be prepared for whatever the situation is. I greatly appreciate any insight yall can provide!
  4. Damn that's super unfortunate I'm sorry to hear that everything took a turn for the worse for you. I knew that EPA cracking down was going to start affecting people but I hadn't heard of any first hand experiences. I hope all is well with you currently! I know you've been a very active member in this community for some time now. Hearing all those hardships makes me glad I decided to keep my day job and do the cars on the side. I work in the repair industry and it's at least stable so I can keep cars as sort of a hobby on the side but be competent enough to do larger scale jobs with the years of professional mechanic work under my belt. The first start up is always nerve racking though lol
  5. Jesus yeah that makes sense, i always knew overhead was more than meets the eye. My old boss wanted me to take over the business. It was a small shop called subie solutions. It was okay business wise and we always had cars coming in but when I got the numbers in it didn't seem feasible. Everything was a 1099 there and under the table a lot but I wanted to do it right, and to do it right it seemed the business didn't pull in enough customers. With that knowledge I switched gears and bought a house instead, figured you can't go wrong with real estate. Duely noted on the insurance I've always kept that in mind. I try my best to have a great relationship with my customers as well so they know every detail and don't feel inclined to try and screw me over if something does happen
  6. Apologies, I call my garage my shop lol I split ways with my old job at a subaru shop awhile ago as I found you could make more doing it yourself. I was just digging around Google trying to find it but only turbo models come up. I appreciate the info Silverton, it's very much appreciated
  7. Hey all, another 02 outback in the shop for head gaskets. I had a quick question regarding the valve covers, I've been doing too many turbo engines. When bolting the valve covers on does the Ej251 NA engine require any rtv or sealant on any portion of the gasket/valve cover/block? On the turbo models you have to rtv the back half of the valve cover for the sharp bends. I was having a hard time finding any info on this as they all are referring to turbocharged engines. Just wanted to check so I don't bolt this engine together and have an oil leak.
  8. I agree with you completely, and this one was parked for like 4 years lol
  9. Figured I'd give an update or maybe the lack thereof even. I ended up getting fresh gas in it, ran a bottle of HEET through it, and pulled the pcv valve to clean it and make sure it was working okay. Everything was plugging away and checked out but the car still had this weird hesitation when trying to accelerate. My next move was going to be to swap out the throttle body. I've seen this issue at our shop and a quick throttle body swap did the trick, quite curious as there must be a crack in the throttle plate or some clogged ports somewhere despite my efforts on cleaning. This car has been sitting for over 3 years and the customer hadn't even driven it because it wouldn't run. Well we drove it around the block the other day to see if it was really drivable and while it is I discovered the transmission is in pretty bad shape. Binding hard on sharp turns, extremely hard shifts, and just not smooth. With that bit of information the customer decided he didn't want to spend any more money trying to hunt an issue when the car may not even be worth it. It was in really rough shape as it was, he just wanted to see if he could get it going without dumping money into it. And with that the hunt is over on my end, customer is going to drive it as is until it dies and then buy a new car. I appreciate the insight and help searching for this problem yall.
  10. Okay I'll give that a shot thanks for insight Chaz. We are in pnw a couple hours of Seattle so not much elevation. The gas fires surprisingly well here even after sitting a few years but it's less than ideal. I'll try to get all that gas out and get some fresh gas in and update
  11. Apologies for not including all the info. I have seen the 5speeds with the NSS but this one is indeed an auto. I agree on the timing part, I feel at that point I would be seeing some random misfires or really any sort of other indicator but it truly is smooth as hell until it hits that 3k rpm point. It will kind of peg bag and forth if you hold the gas steady. It's 3k, dips down to 2k, revs back up to 3k, and so on until revved hard, or let stumble down to idle to figure it out. I was wondering if old bad gas could be an issue with it as well. I know it's definitely not great. This whole p1507 code I feel is just the result of something else going on. A tad confusing this one
  12. Oh also I might add the previous mechanic replaced the throttle position sensor before he gave up and they towed it here. No codes for it but figured it was worth including
  13. Hey all! I've been a long time member in the 2nd and 4th gen forums but haven't posted much in this one. Backstory on me, I've worked in a subaru repair shop for a few years before leaving and have some ase certs so I can definitely throw some wrenches but this one has me confused. The car in question is a customer's car, a 2003 outback (I know not a legacy but these forums truly are the most helpful). The car has been sitting for multiple years before they towed it here. It has about 190k miles and came in having issues with a p1507 code, idle air control valve failsafe fault. The customer is trying to save as much money as possible so I started with cleaning the throttle body and making sure there is no gunk in the IACV as well. Pulled the IACV and cleaned it and when cleaning I found the piston has actually cracked and basically fell apart. We tried a valve from O'Reilly and matters were worse at no surprise to me. I found the plug wasn't contacting the pins completely and got a code for the voltage being incorrect so cut out the old plug and wired in a new one that actually does snap in place. Returned the O'Reilly valve and got 3 more from a local junkyard still trying to save money. Oem is a 330$ valve and junkyard is 15$ and free for the ones you sneak out lol. I hooked the engine up to my smoke machine and smoke checked for any vacuum leaks, all seems to be nice and tight with no visible leaks. Fuel trims seem to confirm as well as they don't look too far off from what they should be. The car idles beautifully with the oem junkyard IACV but when reved up to about 3k rpms, the car will stumble and start sputtering before it eventually recovers. If you smack the throttle and damn near floor it, it will rev past that point just fine. With that I wanted to pick some of the other members brains here. The code is specifically just the p1507, idles okay, revs hard okay, but typical driving is not okay. I was thinking maybe fuel pressure if the fuel pump was dying or the gas is 3 years old so maybe the gas. But again why would it only trigger just that code in that case? Do yall really think all 4 IACV were bad? That would be some really bad luck which has me thinking something else is going on outside of the idle air control valve. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
  14. Okay cool I'll keep that in mind. I'm running BC racing coilovers with camber plates and I've previously never had an issue getting to -2° due to how low it sits so I'm hopeful I should be okay
  15. Okay perfect thank you much for the info everybody. I was suspecting something was different but just wasn't sure what. I work at a subaru repair shop and driving the various legacy gts I didn't really notice a huge difference
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