Bax004

Try swapping cylinder 2 ignition coil with another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. If that doesn’t give you anything then do the same test with the spark plug from cylinder 2. I just saw you already swapped coils and replaced plugs. I would still say do the spark plug swap just for shits and giggles. If that doesn’t result in anything then I would do compression and leak down tests.

That’s weird! I plugged the new one in, my buddy connected the scan tool in and was done within 5 minutes. Programmed the keys, and vin # so it would match. I guess it helps that I’m good friends with someone there. I know most dealerships don’t want to deal with a used situation because either they’re scared and want you to buy new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried wiggling the battery terminal connections? I’ve had cars that “look good” on the terminals but still had just enough corrosion inside to cause an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

UPDATE: I finally said screw it and pulled the trigger on a used ecm. Had a friend of mine that’s still at the dealership, program the keys and everything works great. No more check engine light. So it is possible to transfer ecm’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I spent the weekend replacing the clutch to my 2009 lgt. Lesson learned, don’t buy cheap drivetrain parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just an fyi- You can add blue to green, but not recommended to add green to blue. If you add anything to blue (besides blue) even water, it shortens the mileage interval. Anything added to blue cuts the replacement interval by at least 50%. If you have green coolant the mileage interval won’t be affected. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I know what the code is for, I’ve gone through the test plan for it that’s why I’m concluding with replacing the ecm. Yes the car starts and runs, just doesn’t run the way it’s supposed to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

P0032 - A/F sensor circuit high input. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve tried everything I can for the code that I have. And everything says “repair loose connection” and that’s at the ecm. I’ve done voltage checks, ohmed out wires in the harness. Trust me the last thing I wanted to do was deal with the ecm but that’s what it looks to be. But yes I do agree with you, all the years of being at the dealer I never had to replace one. Leave it to my own personal car, and not being at the dealer anymore for this to happen lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The main reason I’m asking is because I found a 2009 LGT ecm that is literally 1 letter off from mine, the one listed 22611am96a mine is 22611am96b. Even the two big letters match, just that last character on the part #. And it’s also $200 cheaper lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found a used ecm on eBay that matches my part # and everything, but they want over $300 for a used ecm. Has anyone succeeded in replacing their ecm with a different part # ecm? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bump Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. I’m in Southern MD. Apparently the borla header sensor spot sticks out a little further than others. I contacted my buddy that works for Subaru and he sent me the test plan, so I followed that. There were only 2 steps, checked resistance through the harness and checked voltage at the ecm. But my voltage readings didn’t seem legit so that’s still in question. I may try to take another crack at that when I get some free time and day light. What ideas do you have in mind? Any information would be greatly appreciated, I miss having my sport # mode lol (and cruise control) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk