anarchyx34

Firstly make sure your rear suspension bushings are in good shape, especially the upper control arm inner bushing. These are notorious to wear out and can cause excessive negative camber. Secondly, I have the same problem on my car, but only on the right side. I haven't been able to figure out why without throwing parts at it. I suspect it's either the knuckle or upper control arm that might be slightly bent. I don't know what the above poster is talking about that it's an easy adjustment. There is no rear camber adjustment from the factory, only toe, which has a slight influence on camber but nowhere near that much.

Well ideally you should have the heads machined but tbh when I was a subaru tech we rarely ever did unless the car overheated. You can check it with a straightedge and feeler gauges if you need some reassurance. The service manual explains how. Don't use the copper spray. Use STI gaskets, Felpros or Six Star MLS gaskets. As far as cleaning the surface, use a die grinder with 3M blue pads. You can use a high speed drill if you don't have a die grinder. You need this kind of attachment https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/68135656?fromRR=Y and these pads https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00222877 Get plenty of pads as they clog easily but aren't abrasive enough to cause any damage. You should be able to get them at most auto parts stores. Getting everything very clean is important. Honestly the head gasket job isn't too bad on these. Oh and plan on pulling the motor if you didn't already know. You can do it in-car but it just makes it a lot more difficult.

I used this one since it was the only thing available to me during covid lockdown and I'm lucky enough to live near a Microcenter. https://www.microcenter.com/product/466073/nte-electronics-24mm-potentiometer-100kohm-1-4w---2-pack The 3rd pin just isn't used. I only used the middle and right one.

Yeah I did see that there were a lot of complaints about the relay but that wasn't the case here. The evap temp sensor was clearly out of wack.

Bumping this thread back from the dead just to say that I found it very helpful. My A/C was cycling at 48F so I did what this guy did and it worked awesome. Now it's cycling at 38F. Super easy fix.

Doesn't have to be perfect just as long as it's not cracked/torn. Preferably Regal Blue Pearl (the dark blue) so I wont have to respray it but I'll take any color.

Under the d/s dash behind the lower panel.

I just had my glovebox out and dash side panel off while doing some audio install stuff on my car and I can't see how it's remotely possible to replace the inflator with the dash still on. You can't even see the airbag let alone get to it. Unless there's something I'm missing because I tried to figure out how they might do it.

I ended up installing them on the sail panels using the included angle mounts. HUGE improvement in imaging. I wasn't expecting that much of a difference from just a small location change.

All fixed! I ended up going with the Dorman driveshaft. It fit like a glove. I did need to drop the rear section of the exhaust though, there simply was no way to get the driveshaft out otherwise. That bearing was completely shot and probably wouldn't have lasted much longer.

That's actually really clean and doesn't look like it'll effect practicality much.Can you still lift the spare tire cover?

'05 Legacy Limited Wagon. For those of you who have installed aftermarket amps under the passenger's seat. How the hell did you do it? My amp is about 1/2" taller than what the factory sub would be, and I just can't even see how the factory sub would even fit under there. I can barely stick my hand under the seat (looking from the rear). I'm striving for a stealth install and the only other place I can think to install it is in the foam tray under the spare tire cover. I'm concerned about overheating the amp installing it there. I can bolt it to the back of one of the rear seats but that might cause a practical concern should I need to carry something that requires folding down the seats. Any suggestions? The amp is a JBL GTO-3EZ and is 11-15/16 x 9-11/16 and 2-5/8" tall.

I've got a full aftermarket audio setup including the JDM double-din kit and I'm not looking forward to bringing this in. Obviously I'll remove the radio and JDM kit but there's a lot of non-original wiring I don't want the tech to have to deal with.

Do you have automatic/electronic climate control? Because when the blend door actuators go bad they definitely can make a gurgling type sound.

Figured it out. It’s the driveshaft carrier bearing. I put the car on jackstands and ran it with the wheels off the ground. Noticed the sound doesn’t occur in FWD with the parking brake on. Crawled underneath with it running and sure enough that’s exactly where the sound was coming from. I took a nice video for you guys too! Anyway just to further verify I hosed it down with PBlaster and it STFU. So as far as replacement options: Amazon has a Dorman driveshaft with grease fittings on the u joints for $348 shipped prime. Used driveshaft that might have the same issue in the future for $90 - $150. Send it off to a driveshaft shop to be rebuilt which might take days and end up costing the same as the Dorman one at the end of the day. I’m thinking the Dorman shaft might be the way to go here unless any of you have some horror stories you’d like to share. I'm a little confused about fitment. Car-part.com shows different driveshafts for cars produced before 4/2005 and after 5/2005. My car was made in '04. However Subaru only shows a difference with a spring washer. The driveshaft part # supercedes to 27111AG05A which fits all nonturbo 4EAT Legacies from 05-09 and also the Spec B oddly enough. I'm assuming there really is no difference between the year split and that any of them should work? A local salvage yard has a 53k mile one from an '07 Legacy for only $96. That's cheap enough for me to consider even though I'd rather go for a new one so I don't have to deal with it again. Should be the same back there. I can see how it might be possible but i think I might drop the exhaust anyway so I can remove the stupid trailer hitch the PO put on that scrapes on everything. You cant get to the bolts without getting the mufflers out of the way.