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Homedepotmade

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  1. 17" vs 18" wheels which also includes a different VSS (I think) to match the MPH.
  2. I just changed my compressor clutch/pulley last weekend as mine was going out along with an o-ring leak. There's a 10mm bolt, two snap rings and I use a mallet to remove the pulley. The replacement kit came with new hardware: 10mm bolt, snap rings, washer as spacers, pulley, clutch, magnet. You would have to use the provided washers to adjust gap between the pulley and clutch as I had to use 3 to get the correct clearance. There's a couple of good videos online for reference. I bought the replacement pulley through Ebay and this took about 45 min to do including taking off the pulley twice to adjust the clearance. You can see the pulley assembly on my IG account @jcspecbgsr (IG is still down btw cause big tech). To tell if your compressor is going out it will be the black oil of death as some calls it. I have an o-ring leak so I can safely remove my high and low pressure lines at the compressor. If you have refrigerant in your system, you would have to take it to an AC shop to remove it safely. This stuff is pretty nasty one your skin/environment. Once your system is empty you can unbolt the high and low pressure to see if you have any oil residue. If you do then your AC compressor is going out. You'll have to flush your entire AC lines to clean it out or you'll ruin your new compressor. Hope this helps.
  3. For Sale: 2008 Legacy Spec B. Color: QSM Miles: ~181k Transmission: 6 speed Tittle: Clean VIN: (4S3BL696483200769) Location: Costa Mesa, CA Price: $8,500 Contact: Enkoigarage@gmail.com I am the 2nd owner for 4 years. I have the original window sticker with lots of paper work for this car. This is my daily so I garage park and highway miles only. Selling because traffic is back I am looking for an auto for commuting. Engine: Cobb V2 with custom tuned SPT Catback Cobb catted downpipe Killer B oil pick up and baffle plate Transmission: Exedy Stage 1 clutch at ~80k miles Suspension: Pink lowering springs on Bilstein shocks. Group N engine mount Group N 6spd transmission mount with the Bridgestone stamp Torque Solution steering wheel dampener Torque Solution pitch stop mount Kartboy transmission bushings Whiteline rear diff insert Whiteline steering bushing whiteline shifter bushing Exterior: 18x7.5 OZ rally Prodrives wrapped in Nitto Neo-Gens (w/o TPMS) Rear diffuser Front clear hood clear bra Rear doors has small clear wrap Unknown trunk wing in black Interior: Autometer Oil pressure gauge Omori Boost gauge (sender went out) Pioneer single din radio w/ bluetooth in the glove box (Stock radio still in the car and working) Steering control module Kicker CS series front and rear speakers Kenwood mini 4chan amp Subaru all season floor matts Maintenance: Timing Belt Gates kit at 130K miles Valve Cover gasket at 130k miles Spark Plugs at 150K miles Motul Transmission and rear diff fluid Castrol Edge Euro blend and OEM filter Cons: Cosmetic blemishes. Wheels has curb rash, bought the car like this. Nickel size hole on driver seat, bought the car like this. Small tear driver carpet from heel of shoes, bought the car like this. Car is losing coolant with no sign of leaks or smell of coolant. I have to refill my coolant every 5 days or I start to overheat. I am in no hurry to sell. If this doesn't sell then I will rebuild it.
  4. Something similar happened to me with my reservoir boiling over and my car would randomly overhead when I have my AC on when I am not moving. Eventually tt was my top reservoir cap (turbo side) was a little worn. I also noticed that Subaru changed their cap design from my original cap. So far 45min drive in traffic at 92 degrees with no issues. Best of luck.
  5. Check the o2 sensor wire. Make sure it is not damage or touching something hot. This will typically throw a low circuit code and any o2 sensor related codes.
  6. Sounds about right. Timing belt $750-$1000 depending if you go OEM or aftermarket on the timing belt kit. Valve covers typically $150-$200 per side. Depending on your mileage. Check your cam seals, take off your banjo bolt filter, crank seals since you are in there already. I did the work myself and bought the Company 23 tools.
  7. I just disabled my DRL yesterday on my 08 and this solved my problem right away. Took me 10 min. The DRL module is under the driver side dashboard at the firewall, next to the clutch pedal if you are manual. The module will have DRL on it so you can't miss it. Unplug the white connector and cut or unpin the blue with black strip wire. 2006 and below I believe you just need to unplug the white connector. Search on this if you fall under this category.
  8. After reading around the forums, I found a post that Gates went back to Japanese bearings. See NASIOC https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2853549 There's a specific kit and model number to look for and from that review I bought my Gates timing belt kit at Rock Auto. When I got my kit, all of the bearings came from Japan but the water pump is made from China.I bought the OEM water pump online and it in the end it was cheaper than going to the dealership and some other kits. GL. If you are going to do it yourself, as mention above, get the cam lock tool. It is worth it every penny.
  9. I don't have my car manual but I remember reading we can't use snow chains on our cars due to clearance issues. If you are on the California side of Tahoe then you are legally required to carry them in your car. Not sure on the Nevada side. If anyone else can chime in.
  10. Generally if one is out the other side will go out as well. I replaced my rear wheel bearings with Moog and comparing their costumer services/warranty, they are top on my list.
  11. I am running Subaru's 75W90 High Performance Gear Oil and it sucks after 6 months of driving. I am seriously going trying this out.
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