Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

hkshooter

Members
  • Posts

    510
  • Joined

About hkshooter

  • Birthday May 1

Personal Information

  • Location
    Central Indiana
  • Car
    2016 3.6R

hkshooter's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (10/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

2

Reputation

  1. Been a while since visiting this thread. A year ago I picked up my own 2022 XT so now the wife and I own two 22's. In a nut shell, I hate the DMS. Mine will stay off for a week or ten days then comes back on again. I hate it for all the reasons already stated and wish I could rip it out without lighting up the dash like a Christmas tree. Yeah, I've adapted and yeah, life is still too short to get bent over petty things. But by this time in my ownership I've never wanted to shoot a car more than this one over the DMS. I feel like the system is in it's infancy and NOT ready for the market at large. I love most of my car and a little less of the wife's car. My one biggest source of aggravation and hate for both cars is the DMS. May it get tossed into the bin of crappy ideas with the next refresh.
  2. Well, apparently I ran afoul of the rules over on the OB forum and got a hand smacking ban. (They didn't tell me what rule, just "get out until we say so" who knows WTF I did). Anyhow, I cannot reference the thread about this over there but as I recall the noise is in the rear end of the OBXT. My own OB XT did this, hard turn, hard acceleration trying to get going and out of the way. Left turn as I recall. Many over there have complained of the same thing. Mine sounded like a loud knock, knock, knock. A bit alarming, very noticeable. I went to an open and empty parking lot and tried to duplicate the noise, hard left from a standing start, and hit the gas. Maybe I didn't hit it hard enough (don't really like feeling like I'm intentionally abusing my car) but it didn't make the noise. Then I drove in tight figure 8's, trying to get it to do something similar. Didn't do it. I was advised in the forums to see a dealer about it because "it'll only get worse" but I haven't brought up the issue to the dealer yet. I can see them drag this out for weeks and weeks before admitting there's an issue and then much as above, want me to wait for months until they get a part. Consensus over on the OB forums is it's in the rear diff or the center diff, not in the CVT. Maybe your problem is different but as I said, I cannot access the OB forums for the next week or so to compare notes.
  3. I was shocked when I popped in and saw the changes but I still like it. This was the final board I visit to do a software change and all of them have been for the better. And I'm no lover of change. Good job to the site admin.
  4. If I drive fewer miles than the service calls for I default to the time. And vice versa. Or to say it another way, "whichever comes first". It really is that simple.
  5. <------- My 2016 3.6R is over there. Sold it to the dealer for stupid money when I picked up my 2022 OBXT. Have your driven the XT? I was much happier with how my 3.6R ran than the XT. You've probably already read somewhere but the HTCVT and the 2.4T aren't nearly as smooth as the 3.6R combination. The new HTCVT is an 8 speed where the old HTCVT was a 6 speed. There's a lot of herky, jerky, can't seem to decide what ratio it needs to be in. And unless you are into the pedal the ratio ramps up way too soon and kills accel. I found it so annoying I ordered a Pedal Commander and run it way up in sport to try to get rid of the dead spot. I love my OBXT but really miss the smooth and linear performance of the 3.6R. If I didn't drive so much I'd have kept my Legacy just over that reason alone. But I got great money for it at 164K.
  6. I agree with others, take to dealer with concerns. And yes, the throttle is typical Subaru CVT response. I've owned five CVT Subarus from 2016 and up and all of them have done this. It's especially noticeable with the 3.6 and XT models. Mat the throttle and it's a dog out of the hole. But if you give it say, 2/3 throttle, then once it gets rolling mat the throttle, the acceleration is greatly increased vs just flooring it and holding it there. I've said it for years, Subaru's first priority in tuning and throttle response is "protect the CVT". They purposely limit torque from a standing start to save slippage and abuse on the CVT then as the car gets rolling they allow power increase to max available, all to protect the CVT. This is my seat-of-the-pants feeling when driving, not proved by Subaru documentation. Anyone paying an ounce of attention to the car should be able to feel this and duplicate it.
  7. It takes a lot more than the likes of an internet troll to offend me. I just find it really odd that a person's first post in a dedicated forum is to brag about selling the very item that the forum is based on. To each their own, I suppose. Carry on.
  8. ammcinnis and I are going to disagree here, respectfully. I see nothing wrong with replacing the brakes that are worn while leaving the other axle alone. I've never heard of this friction difference thing, sounds like something that might apply to racing cars but not the street. By design there's a difference in amount of pressure applied to each axle when the brakes are applied, normally more front than rear since the front is where the majority of the braking power is. Subaru seems to be either biased more pressure in the rear, or applying the rear a little sooner than the front, wearing them out faster than the front. With such a bias in front to rear braking, how can equal friction become a thing? Call me skeptical. All my life I've replaced the worn brakes when they needed it and not bothered the axle with lots of life left. Never had any sort of issues what so ever. Even did this on my 2016, no issues what so ever. Shops that I've had inspect brakes have done exactly the same thing and they are constantly looking for more of my money to spend. Finally, my own Subaru dealer inspects brakes every time I get the car serviced and they tell me what axle may need brakes soonest, with zero regard to doing all four because of "friction" differences.
  9. I've never had a car in my life I could/had to talk to and I've managed to drive very successfully. If this one doesn't work properly by me talking to it I'll do what I've done since 1985, not talk to it. In fact, I'm disinclined to talk to it, anyhow. Other than cuss a poorly tuned 1981 something or other, I've never talked to a car and see no reason to change that. Especially if the tech is going to piss me off every time I try. Life is too short.
  10. Calls for 87 minimum unless towing, then 91. Why would anyone use more expensive fuel than called for?
  11. I also like the 6 gen looks better than the 7 gen. The 7th Legacy looks so generic it made it easier to move to an Outback.
  12. 1) Speak clearly at a normal tone and volume. Do not yell at it. 2) Drive the Jeep. 3) Sell it and buy another Jeep.
  13. https://www.torquenews.com/1084/subaru-hit-another-lawsuit-owners-say-eyesight-dangerous
  14. This is scary stuff, I'm sorry it happened to you. I believe there's a class action suit over this very thing. I've heard of it but it's rare, one complaint I heard was a car that stopped suddenly on a curvy country road for seemingly no reason. I wonder if these cars have a "black box" that records engine and driver input data?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use