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buppus

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  • Location
    Dallas, TX
  • Car
    05 Outback XT Limited 5EAT in Garnet Red
  • Interests
    Regenerative Agriculture

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  1. Do you have the automatic climate control or the manual? If yours is automatic, the drivers side actuator only controls the air mix (hot/cold) on that side. There is a second air mix servo on the passenger side. If by "All my vents" you mean just the drivers side while the passenger side works normally, then it's probably the actuator. If both the drivers and passengers sides are blowing only hot air, and both will switch vent modes normally, it could be that both actuators failed at the same time, but that is unlikely and there is probably another reason, such as leaked refrigerant or your AC pump failed which is common on this platform. With regard to replacement without removing the instrument cluster, yes it is possible but you will probably at least have to unscrew it and rotate it out of the way so that your arm can pass through the opening, as the cubby hole opening is probably too tight to get in there and also successfully unscrew the top bracket screw on the actuator.
  2. Ok, problem solved. Fella on the OB forum did a fantastic writeup with good pictures, here's the link. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/drivers-side-hvac-blend-door-actuator-replace-without-pulling-the-whole-dash.552721/post-6361198
  3. The Driver's side blend actuator is 72131AG27A. I'm leaving the passenger side alone for the time being.
  4. So far I have received two helpful tips to accomplish this without removing the dash. 1. Pull the center console cubby and use that access to pop out the instrument cluster - this should give the basic access needed to swap the actuator, but the lower center stack trim may also need to be removed for the lower screws. 2. Make sure you have a very compact 1/4" bit ratchet available to get into that tight space - even a stubby screwdriver probably won't be able to get in there. There's a fella over at the OB forum that says he is going to attempt this sometime next week and report back, so if he follows through I will update here as well.
  5. I have seen a couple of threads where users stated this could be done, but I can't find any confirmation or pictures/video of the method. Can anyone give me some tips and tricks to getting this done? I really do NOT want to pull the dash. BTW, my issue is drivers side blowing hot regardless of dual auto climate control settings. Mode switch works fine, and passenger side switches from cold to hot no problem. At first it was stock on blowing only cold, and I was just going to be happy with that but one cold morning the system decided to switch to heat and get stuck there... So it seems like a straightforward diagnosis of the driver's side blend actuator. Spring doesn't last long in TX and I need that drivers side AC to work or I'll melt all over the leather.
  6. Won't any signal (even the low idle) from the FPC just activate that relay, resulting in it running 100% all the time regardless? I'm not sure I understand the benefit of swapping out the FPC. Is it that much different from the OBXT/LGT unit? and would it be different from just running another parallel wire on the stock unit's 12v line to minimize voltage drop? Would it get along with the stock ECU?
  7. 05 OBXT Limited: For a modest stage 3 tune (VF-52) on an otherwise stock fuel system, I want to make sure the fuel pump is not going to be a weak point. My plan was to swap the stock FP to an AEM 50-1215 (340 lph) because it is direct-fit and seems to have a good reputation, but I want to ensure the wiring situation is safe. I am looking to bypass the stock wiring and have a relay wired directly from the battery to power it, but I am unsure whether that is the best way to do things. From my understanding, in the stock configuration the controller will send power to the pump in 3 intervals: 33%, 66%, and 100% depending on load. If I wire in a relay to switch on via that signal, it will simply send 100% to the aftermarket pump at all times. Is there any potential problem with this setup? I know there is an iwire kit that preserves the low/med/high function but it's quite costly ($250) https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/fuel-pump-controller-hardwire-kit Any advantage to the more expensive route, or should I just go with a simple relay?
  8. This is such a perfect Subaru shot - brings back good memories Those rims are awesome BTW
  9. That grill looks amazing - that's not stock is it? I want to get a mesh grill on my OBXT
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